JADE
SHELLED TOP
Let’s
take a break from motifs and cute little crochet work and do something four
ourselves, shall we?
Today
we’ll work on a nice “V”-necked top that is worked from the chest up and then
from the chest down.. so its both a top up and top down construction !
Thank you for joining me.
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So
come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of
Sullivans cotton (Australia) knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For
Indians :
The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Anchor knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton,
White rose knitting cotton , Pony cotton as well as Laura yarns are a good
substitute. I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top
right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For
Non-Indians :
Among the other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford
Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo
Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Size made : 34”
(M/L)
This
is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need. The yarn you require will depend on the size
you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill
level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
For
this pattern we will start at the chest, just under the bust, and work up
towards the armhole, neck and shoulders.
We will then come back to this start line and work down for the length
of the top.
Oh,
and if you want the shelled pattern all the way to the top, you will work two
rectangles – one each for the front and back.
You
can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
So
for this top we will work a really simple lacy yoke and the shelled pattern is
for the lower part of the top.
The beauty is that you can decide to work the lacy yoke for as far as you want OR you could decide to work the shelled pattern all the way to the top.
The beauty is that you can decide to work the lacy yoke for as far as you want OR you could decide to work the shelled pattern all the way to the top.
The
stitch count for our shelled pattern is in multiples of 6 + 1
Now to start we will work a fsc row that is in multiples of the stitch count, but instead of going across the chest (like we usually do) but down from the yoke to the base of the top. So this first fsc row is for the length of your top from yoke down.
Got it?
Take a quick look at the video below for how to work our shell stitch
Take a quick look at the video below for how to work our shell stitch
In case the video does not automatically start, go to
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with
fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for length you want your top from yoke down.
Turn.
Our
Shell stitch is 5 dc in the same st.
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st fsc ;
(sk
next 2 fsc, Shell st in the next fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ;
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
Row 2 : 3
dc in the 1st sc ;
(sk
next 2 dc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) till the last sc ; 3 dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
(sk
next 2 dc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
rep
(to) till the end. Turn.
In case the video does not automatically start, go to
and
that’s our pattern done. Easy peasy,
right?
Stitch detail
Now
as we are working our pattern from left hand side to right hand side (of body or
top) and making a rectangle, you will work the pattern for half the body
width
Once
again remember that you will work it for half the chest / bust or waist,
depending on whichever is the largest measure.
OK,
so rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the width needed.
For
the last row, we will need to work a row of sc to finish. Now this bit is a little tricky. You need to neatly finish this end off
ensuring you have the same number of stitches you started with. You cannot work 1 sc per st for this
last row as you will end up with way more stitches – but you can just
skip every 3rd st or so and kind-of get it right.
If
you have a mathematical calculating mind, then you can count the number of
shells you have across the row (say 15), then you know that you have 15 x 5 + 2
dc all through. As you know the number
of stitches you started with, you can then decide how many sts you need to skip
when working this last row. Not too bad,
huh? Come along then, finish up the two
rectangles that will be front and back of your top.
Great
job. We’re half way there.
In case the video does not automatically start, go to
YOKE :
The
yoke bit is really easy.
We’re going to work a "V"-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
We’re going to work a "V"-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
If
you have worked the shelled pattern as a rectangle all the way to the top, you
will skip this section and go straight to finishing instructions.
You
can decide to work with a rectangle for the yoke or you can shape armhole.
In
case you work a rectangle, then you will get a scooped neckline and a small
sleeve that will fall automatically.
Remember
that our shells are facing sideways. Now decide if your shells are facing left
or right, and accordingly decide which is the top row for your
rectangle.
Once again, check out the video to get an idea of what we're doing
Once again, check out the video to get an idea of what we're doing
Stitch detail
Our
stitch count is in multiples of 5 + 1
Row 1 :
Run a row of sc all the way down. Turn.
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st sc ; (sk next 2 sc ; "V"-st in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
Row 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(sk next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) till end ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; sk next dc, "V"-st in the next dc ;
(sk next 2 sts ; "V"-st in the next sts) ;
(sk next 2 sts ; "V"-st in the next sts) ;
rep (to) till the last 2 sts ;
sk the 2nd last st and dc in the last st. Turn.
sk the 2nd last st and dc in the last st. Turn.
Rep
Rows 3 & 4 for a nice lacy yoke.
Now
in case you have worked without any shaping, all you now need to do is join the
shoulders, leaving a neck opening. Then
join the sides, leaving an armhole opening.
You
will get an automatic scooped out boat-like neck and a small Magyar-like sleeve
that will fall over the shoulder.
Finish
off the neckline and sleeve ends to get a lovely top.
Armhole Decrease ideas :
In
case you want a shaped armhole then it’s a little trickier and a little more
work.
a) You need to
decide how deep an armhole you want. I
usually like to keep a well-fitting top as a guide to get the shaping right.
b) For the
first decrease, skip the 1st 5 sts and continue with the lace
pattern all the way till the end, and stop at the 5th st from end.
c) In the next
row, I suggest you work a dc 2-tog over the 1st two sts. This should give you a nice shape.
Remember to do the same thing at the other end as you finish off.
d) Once you
have a neat shaped armhole, you need to continue working the lace yoke pattern
all the way to the shoulders.
Neckline Decrease ideas :
In
case you want a shaped neckline, then here’s what you do
a) Decide how
deep you want the neckline – once again that well fitting top comes in handy
b) All you need to do is decide how deep you’re
going for the neck, and mark the two sides for the neck. You will then work the pattern all the way
from the armhole to that marked stitch and back. You will work this all the way to the
shoulders for both sides of the neckline.
Sleeve idea :
The
other thing you can do is work a small sleeve.
I had just a little yarn left, and that’s what I decided to do… and I
worked our shell st pattern around.
If
you do this, first you do need to run a row of sc all around. In case you are working the shell st pattern,
then you need to work sc in multiples of 6 and end by joining with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
You
then go back to the top of this blog to work out the shell stitch pattern. The only difference is that you work in
rounds for the sleeve and therefore will end with a sl-st in the 1st
st. Work this for as long as you want
your sleeve.
I
have decided to have a sliver of a sleeve, and so I skipped the first shell in each
row, and worked in rows and not rounds.
The
last idea I have is that you work the same lacy pattern for the sleeve. This is the simplest idea and will look
really beautiful too. Once again when
you work your round of sc, you just join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. For this pattern, you will check
what you did for the yoke portion of your top.
Ending
the lacy sleeve with a picot or crab stitch will look lovely. Remember to end with whatever you have used
for the neckline for an even look.
Finishing ideas :
In
case you have worked the shell pattern all the way through, then all you need to do is attach the shoulders, leaving a
neckline opening ; then attach the sides, leaving an armhole opening and you’ve
got a really cool scooped boat-like neckline and a slight Magyar sleeved top
ready to go.
No
matter what neck or armhole you have chosen, a good finish is needed.
I’d
suggest you run a row of sc all the way around and then you can either end with
a picot stitch or crab stitch.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Have
fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
