Tuesday, 28 October 2014

A LOVELY 3 – IN - 1 SKIRT

free crochet skirt pattern


A LOVELY 3 – IN - 1 SKIRT


Odd name for a skirt ??  Well this lovely creation has three sets of patterns and it all neatly adds up to one fantastic skirt – fits ?? The name.. I mean .. J

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

As always I have given a lot of explanation - so please go through the whole blog before you pick up your hook.

Materials used : Red Rose knitting cotton  ~ 300 gms , with a 2.50 mm crochet hook
For Indians : This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe  even some 3-ply yarns or even a 4-ply (Anchor) knitting cotton yarn.  I say this just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.
For Non - Indians : I'd say that any light weight yarn would work for this pattern - mainly due to the use of three different patterns in one skirt ; each of which is pretty lacy.
International yarns that I've used in the similar weight category (as the one I've used) include DMC Petra, Milford Soft, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, and Sullivans (Australia).

Size made : Waist : 30-32” : Length : 24”
Gauge : 3 dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”
Gauge is not essential.  

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

“V”-stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc) all in the same sp or st.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                             hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             ch : Chain


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

With this pattern, as with my other patterns, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start.  I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work.  
However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead.  You will need to work 2 chains more than given for the start, and work in the 3rd ch from hk which will become your 1st dc.

The designer has also used a tie-cord to bring the waist together.  
This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt.  
In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then use the round waist / round hips measurement (whichever is more).  

For a tie cord waist :  
a) You will use the hip/waist measure and a little more than that, keeping the stitch count in mind. 
b) You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.
c)  I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around.  
d) You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.

For a fitted waist :  
a) This works best if the difference between hip and waist is not too much.  
b) You will still start with the round hip measurement, keeping the stitch count in mind.
c) For the first few rows you will work back and forth in rows and you will have a small opening around the back (or side, if you so decide)
d) After the first few rows, you will join up and work in rounds
e) The first few rows could be  (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) till end.  
f) Once you have the slight opening done, please join up and work the pattern in rounds.

This pattern has three parts – so I suggest you look at the whole pattern and decide how long / wide you want each section – or just divide it up equally into thirds – one third for each pattern.  So first decide on the full length you want for your skirt, and then divide that into thirds.… and off we go J

For the pattern, we’re all going to work in rounds.  Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 1.



PATTERN 1

Start with a  multiple of 3 + 1 fdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.

Round 1 : sc in 1st fdc ; ch 8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in next fdc ; 
*ch 8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in next fdc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : sk 1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8 sp ; 
*sk next sc, 8 sc in next ch-8 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.


Round 3 : sl-st in 1st 3 sc , sc in the next sc ; ch 8, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc ; 
*ch 8, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 4 : sk 1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8 sp ; 
*sk next sc, 8 sc in next ch-8 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 for the length you desire.






PATTERN 2
I am going to start numbering from 1 for this pattern.  Please do not confuse it with the earlier pattern numbering.

Round 1 : sl-st in the next 3 sc ; “V”-st in next sc ;  ch 2 , sk next 5 sc , dc in next 4 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 6 sc , “V”-st in next sc ; ch 2, sk next 5 sc, dc in next 4 dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ;
*(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp); “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , 
(dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ; *ch 4, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch 4, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; rep from *to* till end ; ch 4, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch 4, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ;
*ch 2 , (2 dc in next ch-4 sp ; sk next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-4 sp) ;  
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Your rep rounds are Rounds 2-5.  
Rep till you have this pattern for the length you desire ; ending with Round 3.



PATTERN 3

This last pattern set is the famous ‘lattice’ pattern.  
It’s a long repeat because the lovely designer has started with a lattice then moved the next lattice  - so as you’re working this pattern set out.. do try and see how this is working out.

The idea of my blog is also to help you along with chart reading, so … J

In the chart below, the first round of this pattern is Round 3 of Pattern 2, so our first round here will be the 2nd line of this pattern chart.
We’re  starting as usual with that 1st “V”-st, and for this pattern we do not use this st, so we’ll , in some parts of the following instructions, consider this as 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc for the explanations in the coming round.

A quick understanding of this first foundation round for our 3rd pattern set.
We’re going to make a (ch 3, then do 5 scs, then ch 3 and 3 dcs) all around.  To make our life (and pattern reading) a little simpler, rather than throw all these sc’s and dc’s around, I’m just going to call everything a STITCH.  However, PLEASE remember that if the ch sp is a ch-1 sp, that qualifies as ONE STITCH, and similarly our ch-2 sps, qualify as TWO stitches ; each dc will obviously qualify as ONE stitch.
Once we’ve got this 1st round done, the rest is simpler J

Round 1 : sl-st in 1st dc of the 1st “V”-st , dc in next dc , dc in next st ;
(ch 3, sk next dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk next ch-1 sp, sk next dc , dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp , sc in next 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp} ;
((ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk next ch-2 sp , dc in the next 3 dc)) ;
[(ch 3, sk next dc, sk next ch-2 sp , sk next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc , 1 sc in next ch-2 sp)] ;
ch 3 , sk next ch (of this ch-2 sp) , sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp

Now you can see what the designer is doing.. skipping 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set, sk next 4 sts and doing a 5 sc set, sk next 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set again.  This is what I’ve figured from the chart below and done.
So carry on with this scalloped shape all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

I was wondering why I was unable to get a rep to give you.. now while I did finally  get one, it’s too long.. so I think we’ll stay with my rep calculation above.. and hopefully that’s going to work without a problem..

So done with this round.. and I am one stitch short.. we’ve got to sk 4 sts, and I had only 3.. so I just fudged it and have joined with a sl-st to the first 3 dc-set.
And phew.. we’ve done it !!  The rest of the rounds are going to be a breeze.. and you’re going to love it

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once l rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, dc in next sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; 
dc in next dc ; ch 3, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the same 1st dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
* rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around, ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st two sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

* rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; 
sc in next sc ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st two sc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp) ; [ch 3, sk next sc ; sc in next 3 sc] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc , dc in next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc] ;
 *rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; c
h 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into 1st ch of ch-3 sp , 2 dc in same ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, sk next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : dc in 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;  
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 10 : dc in 1st dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.



Now before you start your repeat, TURN, go into that ch-1 sp, and then TURN AGAIN and start your reps.
Our rep rounds are Rounds 3-10.  So while we do all that starts with Round 3, you must get to that ch-1 sp first, so the two turns underlined above.. you continue reps till you get the final skirt length you want .. and tada !!!  we’re done.

The designer has ended with a Round 9.. which is probably the line with the least spaces.. and the centre of one part and completion of another latticed part… but you could find any round that suits you to end too.

There is also a border, which I’ve written .. but you can see if you want to add that.. or leave it with this lovely filigree edging after Round 9 too.



BORDER  
Let’s quickly take a look at our work and what we’re going to do with the border – so we have 2 sets of sts that we’re going to have chains swinging between.  
One set consists of a 3 sc set, and the next is a (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) set.  So the centre sc and the centre of (to) which is the ch-1 will be the ones being used.  
Oh, you may also see in the chart below, that the designer has used a ch 10 between 2 sets.  I feel that an odd number of chain is better, as it’s simpler to count off – but once again, this is up to you.. 
OK, so off we go for the last 2 rounds that make our border. We also use a picot, which is a decorative stitch, and is a (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st st) all in the same st.

Border Round 1 : sc in 1st 3 sc ; 
*ch 9, sk next sc , sk next 2 dc , sc in next dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in next dc ; 
ch 9, sk next 2 dc, sc in next 3 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around till end. 
Join with a sl-st to 1st sc.

Border Round 1 : sl-st into next sc ; sc + picot in the same sc ; 
*sl-st in the next sc ; dc in next ch ;  
(dc + picot in the next ch ; dc in next ch) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; dc in last ch ; sl-st in next sc ; 
[sc + picot in next sc]* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.   Fasten off and weave in ends.



Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to J

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