Google+ Followers

Friday, 23 January 2015



This is a pic of the original handbag that had me fascinated.. the chart has me confused.. the look has me excited.. all in all yet another one that I can’t resist.

So here’s yet another lovely pattern for you. .. my interpretation and creation of this beautiful diamond bag.

I’ve  got a few more beautiful and unusual bag / clutch patterns already written – so let me add a few links here for your easy reference.

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful patterns shared freely over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. J
So below I give you the pattern as per the chart (by designer), but in my own project. (

Materials used : Polyester purse yarn in cones  ~ 4 cones , with a 4 mm crochet hook
This yarn has a 4-ply or sport ply thickness, but do check guage if you’re using a different yarn.

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.

How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at

How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            ch : Chain

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
So as usual, a quick analysis of what the designer has done with this pattern. 
The bag is made in two parts.  The first part is the base strip .. which is the bottom bit as well as the two side bits.. so technically not ‘a base’.. and the second part(s) are the front and back parts that are then attached onto this ‘base strip’. J

In this part we’ll work the strip that will be the base as well as the two sides of your bag.  For convenience and a neat start, I am starting with the fdc – and as we’re working with the thicker 4-ply yarn, I urge you to try this start as well.
So start with an appropriate number of stitches for the length you need, for the bottom plus two sides of your hand bag.
Now a little bit of calculation : We’ll mark off our two sides and bottom for the bag, and work only on the bottom bit.  So
a)     Count off the number of stitches you have now
b)     Divide by 3 (for equal height and width) OR in such a way that the bottom part is in multiples of 4.
c)      Fasten off yarn and re-attach yarn at the 1st marker for the bottom part
d)     We will work upwards from this bottom part till we get the height of bag we want. 
e)     We will then fasten off this side, and re-attach yarn for doing the mirror image of the other side of our bag.
f)       Once both front and back of bag is done, we will attach the sides of our bag to this.
Right so now that we’ve got this bit figured, lets move on to Part 2, which is the beautiful patterned front and back

In this part we’ll make the front and back patterned parts of our bag. As said before, ensure that this section is in multiples of four.

Row 1 : sc in each dc till the next marker.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in each sc till end.  Turn

From the following row onwards, we will start our decorative “V” stitch.  Our “V”-sts here are done as a fpdc 2-tog that is worked over 2 sc’s (from the row one below.. ie in this case Row 1) and skipping 3 dcs in between (of Row 2).  This means that you say work the first ‘leg’ of the fpdc 2-tog in stitch 1, then you sk sts 2,3,4 and the 2nd ‘leg’ of the fpdc-2 tog is in this st. 

For the 2nd fpdc 2-tog, you will do the 1st leg of this stitch in the last sc .. which is the sc where you did the 2nd leg of your earlier fpdc 2-tog, and then as before sk the next 3 sc, and do the 2nd leg of this fpdc 2-tog in that st.

This gives our stitch an extended “V” look, and because these are front post stitches, they stick out and give the textured look for our lovely bag.  A quick view of the link below for a ‘how-to” on the Front post double crochet 2-tog -

A little complicated, I know.. and the first 2 lines will be a little ummm…but then on, you’ll wonder what you were worrying about.
Few things you need to remember : The fpdc 2-tog is in the row one row below, so you’re not only skipping stitches across to do your fpdc 2-tog, but also skipping a row.  Secondly, this fpdc 2-tog is a stitch, so you will sk the dc just behind the fpdc 2-tog(i.e the dc just after the 3 scs), and then sc in the next 3 dc. The instructions below will get way too complicated if I write all this in, so remember this when you are reading the instructions of Rows 3 and 5.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st 3 sc ; (fpdc 2-tog over the 2nd sc from the row below i.e Row 1 , then skipping the next 3 sc, the next fpdc over the next sc also from the row below i.e Row 1) ; sk next dc, sc in the next 3 sc ; *(fpdc 2-tog over the same last sc from where you had your last fpdc 2-tog, and skipping 3 sc, the next sc in Row 1) ; sk next dc, sc in the next 3 sc* ; rep from *to* till end.  Turn

Row 4 : dc in each st till end. Turn
Note : Remember to count the number of stitches in this row as its very easy to add stitches here. 

Note : Once again we will be doing the fpdc 2-tog in the sc one row below – so our scs from Row 3.
Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ; fpdc in the next sc of Row 3 (where the 2 fpdc 2-tog of previous row are) ; sk next dc, sc in the next 3 dc ; fdpc 2-tog over the same 1st fpdc and then skipping 3 dcs in the next sc of the previous row ; * sc in the next 3 dc ; fpdc 2-tog over the last fpdc and then skipping 3 sc, next leg of fpdc 2-tog in the next sc of the previous row; sk next dc, * ; rep *to* til end.  Turn

See how it was a little easier in this row, and from now on, it’ll be easier and make a lot more sense as you will see the diamonds forming.  So we will just be using the sc that is also the fpdc 2-tog points from now on for the diamond formations.

Row 6 : dc in each st till end. Turn

So you’ve seen the first of the diamonds emerge.  Great job.

Our repeat rows are Rows 3-6.  Continue repeats till you have a length / height you desire for your bag, ending with a Row 4 or 6 (i.e dc row)

Note : Remember that when you stitch your bag up, the base bit as well as the final top finishing bit will add to the length/height, so work the diamond pattern accordingly.

The designer has then done about 4 dc rows on top, interspersing little holes (a missed stitch with a ch-1) in one of the rows.  In this ‘holed’ row, the designer then has passed in the handle cord. On the first sheet of the blog is a link for how to make a lovely rounded cord – so go ahead and see that video tutorial for that. 

The final bit here is the front flap.  Using this idea, you could also make the two tiny side flaps (if you’re unable to get that in leather or faux leather, and/or would like to match that with the rounded cord handle and front flap)

Fasten off then and weave in the ends

For the flap, we’ll work it as a separate unit and then attach it to one side of our bag.
We start with the semicircular end, and then work up the flap to make the rectangular bit.

Start with a 7 dc in that circle.  Turn.
Do not pull tight and do not make it a circle – allow it to stay semicircular and we’ll now back and forth in rows.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 5 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; 
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* 2 times ; 3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep *to* till end ending with 2 dc in last dc.  Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ; rep *to*  2 times ; (dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next dc) ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; *2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ; rep *to* 3 times ; (2 dc in the next 2 dc ; 3 dc in the next dc) ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

We’ve done our semicircular end, so now to work the other part of the flap, we’ll turn and work in a rectangle.

Next row : Turning your work at 90°, evenly pick up dc’s all along this end. (which is the flat portion of the semicircle).  So I picked up 2 dc’s in each dc, and then 1 dc in the ‘magic circle’ bit.   Turn.

Next row : dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep this dc row till you have a flap of the length you desire.
Fasten off and weave in ends. 

There are 2 links given at the start of this blog pattern sheet with instructions to make an I-cord or a rounded cord.  I tried both, but wanted a flat cord – so what I’ve done is make a long fsc chain of length desired, then turned and worked down both sides of the fsc with sc all through.  At the end of the fsc chain, to get from one side to the other, I’ve done 1 ch, and then at the other end, of course, joined with a sl-st. 

So now you have three choices.. decisions.. decisions J

Finishing :

Several parts need to be attached, so let’s get started
1.        Attach the two sides and make your bag up.
2.       Attach the flap to one of the sides.
3.       If you’ve made the little side flaps, then attach these little flaps in as well, and then attach     the little buttons down.
4.       Line your bag, if desired.
5.       Loop your cord through the loop holes you’ve made and then attach it behind the flap, so    that the attached end is neatly hidden there.
6.       Attach a little button for the front flap as well… and we’re done !

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d also appreciate if you could credit this blog (and/or the original link) when you complete your project.

Have a great day and see you soon. J