Saturday, 20 December 2014
NEATLY WHEELED BAG
NEATLY WHEELED BAG
I just thought the name was a neat one – the pattern looks like a little wheel.. and one would generally associate wheels and bags with the ones that you wheel when you’re going out of town – but this one can put a totally different spin on your evening – so let’s wheel away.
I’ve got a few more bags and purses done, so in case you’re interested, do take a quick dekho at
http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/the-cute-hat-n-bag-for-peachiliciouslly.html for a completely different kind of bag J
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. J
http://www.pourfemme.it/ may be the original link for this pattern.
The full chart is right at the end of this write up.
Materials used : Purse thread (polyester/viscose) ~ 1 cone , with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
Size made : Width : 10” ; Length : 22”
Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row. Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
dc 5-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 5 times (6 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 5-tog made.
Great video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWq5DML6EtU
Abbreviations used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together st(s) : Stitch(es)
yo : Yarn Over hk : Hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
The pattern is in repeats of eight and we start along the length of our purse. So depending on how long you want your purse, go ahead and count off your start stitches. You may notice that our chart has an extra ch at the end, and that’s because the designer has started with ch’s. So you choose your start stitch accordingly.
Now this pattern is so neat, it looks great in single colour or two colours – so if you do decide to go two colours, you do 2 rows in one colour, then neatly switch over to the next colour for the following two rows. This is so cool that you don’t need to have a trailing thread and can switch colours really neatly along the edge.
Remember that to switch colours neatly, in the last st, switch yarns in that last yarn over, so that the colour you need is just where you want it. J
Start with fsc in a multiple of eight. Turn.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; sk next 3 fsc , 9 dc in the next fsc ; *sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; sk next 3 fsc , 9 dc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till last fsc ; sc in the last fsc. Turn.
Now the beauty of this pattern is the together stitches that we’re going to use. As far as I know there are videos for dc 2-tog to dc 5-tog stitches. A link has been given above for the a ‘how to’ dc 5-tog stitch. However, in our case, we’re going to be spreading our dc over a whole load of stitches – so while I do try and simplify this, do follow with the chart too.. and slowly let’s improve our chart reading skills J
I’ve also introduced the chainless dc start – so if you are comfortable with that then we’re good, else (like the designer has) go ahead and use the ch sts for that 1st dc
So if you’re switching yarn colours, this is where you should be doing it.
Row 2 : dc 5-tog over the 1st sc and the next 4 dc (of that 1st 9-dc set) ; ch 3, sc in the next dc (which is the 5th or middle dc of the 1st 9-dc set) ; ch 3, dc 9-tog over the next 4 dc (of the 1st 9-dc set), the next sc, and the next 4 dc (of the 2nd 9-dc set) ; *ch 3, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc 9-tog over the next 4 dc , the next sc, and the next 4 dc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over the last 4 dc and the last sc. Turn.
From this row on, the pattern becomes even simpler – you still need to do the dc 5-togs and the dc 9-togs, (they make the pattern, so …!!) but you don’t need to figure out which stitch to go into, as its always going to be the sc after the ch-3 sp! Cool, huh?? J
Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next ch-3 sp , 9 dc in the next sc ; *sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next sc ; sk next ch-3 sp , 9 dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last dc ; sc in the last sc. Turn.
If you’ve used an alternate colour, change back to the 1st colour here.
Row 4 : dc 5-tog over the 1st sc and the next 4 dc (of that 1st 9-dc set) ; ch 3, sc in the next dc (which is the 5th or middle dc of the 1st 9-dc set) ; ch 3, dc 9-tog over the next 4 dc (of the 1st 9-dc set), the next sc, and the next 4 dc (of the 2nd 9-dc set) ; *ch 3, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc 9-tog over the next 4 dc , the next sc, and the next 4 dc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over the last 4 dc and the last sc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 till you have a project of the length you desire. Remember your colours are switched every 2 rows.
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Have a great day and see you soon. J
A full time mum, a part time social service volunteer, animal fosterer and a Guinness World Record holder
I love art and craft - and am grateful for this hobby that keeps me busy and out of 'mischief'.
We (as a family) are also staunch protectors of stray animals and will continue to do our bit to make this a safe world for them.
We strongly believe in R-R-R and several of my projects will show this.