Welcome to Sweet Nothings Crochet Blog where you can find Free Crochet Patterns plus my original designs and creations. :)
Over the years, I've found that there are a lot of free charts available on the net, so as I make the project off that chart, I write down my notes and share them here on my blog. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for stopping by.
Wednesday, 1 July 2015
LEGO BACK PACK
LEGO BACK PACK
I loved this Lego pattern so much that I’ve made two
Lego blankets using it ... and then my lovely sister asked for a Lego back pack .. so yaay.
I love how this
pattern has worked with this yarn too and have enjoyed writing about this
If you have
read my blog about the blankets, then you’ll know what I mean about the video
What I love most about this video link is that the
super designer does not waste any time in talking about anything.. just goes
straight into the project – my kind of video ! J
Materials used : Today
I’ve used our lovely Indian Polyester purse / cone yarn , with a 4 mm crochet
hook. The range of colours in our
Polyester yarn are superb, and I love the colours I’ve used for this creation.
Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
: This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double
crochet stitches. This makes your whole
project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree! If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder
why you never used this start before !
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do
not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given
assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
“Pop” stitch : The designer has used the following stitch and
called it a “Pop” stitch. It is 5 trc,
all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)
: Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp
sl-st : Slip stitch fdc :
Foundation Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
ch : Chain
The designer has a superb video that is totally
self explanatory. My notes here are only
for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chainless dc start, and a
finishing idea / difference.
Start with 14 fdc. Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then
dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc. Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that
the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other
start – however, this is just a choice.
Row 1 :sc
in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; *sc in
the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the
last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the
1st sc ; dc in each st till end.
1 and 2 once more.
sc in each st till end ; 1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work
at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc
in the corner st ;
Turn your work
at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ;
1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work
at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ; 1 more
sc in the corner st (back where we started out). Join with a sl-st to the first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One Lego block made.
Once you’ve made all the Lego bricks / blocks
you need, you will see the beautiful join that the designer has made – the
white chains showing up on top add a lovely edging that make this more like a Lego
Kudos to this beautiful design and more so that
this wonderful person has shared this all for free !!
Now I thought that for the back of my bag (i.e
the part that rests against the back and so does not really show) I’d do a neat
striped pattern – so I just made a rectangle of the same size as I have for the
front, using one colour per line. Yes,
this does mean that there are a lot of colour changes, but I love this finish
We also need two straps and one border strip
that runs all around the sides and bottom of the back pack.
For all three pieces, I once again did this long fdc chain and then used one
colour for each row.
Measurements / Length calculations
The two back straps are a fairly easy
calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and
decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on
both top and bottom ends. Ensure that
your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the
yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the
For the long piece that goes around and the
bottom of the bag – little math and calculation needed .
You will need to calculate how many stitches you
have across each Lego brick. Now this is
not that hard a calculation – we know that we have started with 14 sts, and we
have 6 rows.. so that’s a start for calculations.
Depending on how many bricks we have across,
multiply that number by 14 (along brick length) and add 1 stitch per two bricks
(This one stitch will equal that one stitch that is between the joint of 2
You need to add 2 sts per corner to allow
your strip to neatly turn.
You will calculate for two lengths, so multiply
You similarly calculate the number of stitches
across each Lego brick width.
Add your totals, and this number
determines the number of fdc you need to start with for the strip that goes
around the sides and bottom of your backpack.
So say for our pattern below, here’s how I would
calculate the fdc needed : (Diagram below)
(14 x 5) x 2 + (6 x 4) + 15
The + 15 stitches are (for the “st between 2 Lego
bricks” + 2 per corner).
Of course, there is no hard-and-fast rule here,
so whatever works for you.. If you have a better method, do add it on so we can
help someone else. Thanks. J
Once you’ve made this strap, attach one side of
it to the front, and the other to the back and we’re done. Remember that we’ve got the 2 “extra stitches”
along the corners, so what I did was count out my stitches on the strap, attach
markers and then did one continuous attachment all around.
You can then attach the back straps to the back
of the back pack.
Our final finishing will be the top finishing for the pull tie. So I first did one round of sc
around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st
sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end.
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with
one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can
easily thread in your pull tie.
For my pull tie, I just held a few of the
coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the
I finally added a little shell at the end of
each yarn, which not only neatly hides that end, but also gives it a cute
See the lil shells.. love it..
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right
here for more freebie patterns J
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