A few days back, while working on my first C2C clutch purse, I found two charts, and decided to
use both of them to make purses. Check out this first C2C as well as many many more bags I've made before, at the end of this blog.
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General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India. The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate
to Advanced skill level.
The pattern we’re using here is the C-2-C, so if
you have done this before.. come along and see how we’re making a square into a
rectangle.
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
dtrc : Double triple crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
MC : Main colour
CC : Contrast colour
Stitches used :
Single crochet back loop only (sc-blo) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Extended Single Crochet (e-sc) : hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one
lp, yo (2 lps on hk),pull through both lps.
One e-sc made.
Extended single crochet (e-sc) : Here is an easy video tutorial
The beauty of this pattern is that you could
work with either an dc or an e-sc.
I
love the e-sc and often have replaced that stitch for the dc, as I love that it
gives you the length needed (almost same length as a dc), but is a ‘lighter’
stitch.. well, to know what I mean, you just gotta try it too... tee hee.
Before we head off, let’s try to visualize what
we’re going to create here today.
This pattern is worked a little like a C-2-C
pattern.
The pattern is worked basically side to side, in
a straight line, but due to the way we use our stitches, the end result looks
complicated and diagonal.
Just to throw in the curve (and difficulty), you
can add in a second color, which will not only accentuate the stitch but make
it look awesomely complicated.
We may be working different sizes for our
pattern, so as always, I’ll give you a general idea and write up and you go off
and create your genius product. Just
remember to share my blog (with the full URL or blog link) please when you make
your beautiful bag. Thanks.
So let’s get started.
I am going to give you instructions for a change
of colour (using 2 colours) BUT you can work the whole pattern in one colour as
well.
Our stitch count for this pattern is multiples
of 6 + 1
Start :
(using MC) : with
a chain of stitches in multiples of 6 + 1.
Turn.
Row 1 : (using
MC) : dc
in the 4th ch from hk ;
(dc in the next 2 ch ; ch 3, and sl-st in the same
ch as the last dc) ;
*sk next 3 ch, dc in the next ch ; rep (to)
once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
If not changing
colours,
please just continue with pattern.
If changing colours, please
change to your CC yarn now, attaching it at the st you have ended at (which
coincidentally is the stitch you started from as well)
There are two ways to continue with our changing
of colours. You can either carry the
unused colour yarn along OR you can fasten off and weave in ends when you
attach your 2nd colour, and re-attach it again when you are done
with your row.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
Row 2 : (using
CC) : ch 3 ; 3 dc
in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, and sl-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
*sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,
and sl-st in the same ch-3 sp*;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
sk last 3 dc and dc in the last st . Turn ( Read *Note )
*Note : We started this row with a ch-3, so the last
st here is this ch-3 sp. However if
I say ch-3 sp, it sounded confusing. So
basically you sk the last 3 dc and work the 3 dc in that ch-3 sp. Got it?
Row 3 : (using
MC) : ch 3 ; 3 dc
in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, and sl-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
*sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3,
and sl-st in the same ch-3 sp*;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
sk last 3 dc and dc in the last st . Turn
And this is the basic pattern. You will continue working Rows 2 and 3 for
the pattern.
If you’re only using one colour, you will just
repeat Row 2. Row 2 and Row 3 are the
same, but it’s only to remind you to change colours if using two colours.
So let’s visualize this. As you reach the length of your project,
instead of working 6 ch, you will sl-st along the last 3 dc made, till you
reach the 1st ch-3 sp, and then you will work your pattern in that
ch-3 sp, and continue all the way to the end.
So what happens when you reach the width of your project?
The same thing. …
You will work all the way till the end, and then
you will sl-st along the 3 dc’s and work your next set of sts in the ch-3
sp.
Once again, this is exactly how one works the
C-2-C. It’s just that as far as I know,
I have seen the C-2-C worked for afghans and scarves / wraps – which are way
larger projects and our purse is a tad smaller !
Our Row 5 then is just for the change of pattern
when you have reached the length of your project
Row 5 : sl-st
ch ; Turn and work dc in the 4th
ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ; (sl-st and join with the
corner of the last square)
*ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once*
; rep *to* 2 times , ending with 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Ok now that you have got this far, I am sure you
also know how to get the nice diagonal across one side.. all you need to do is
work till one 3-dc set at one end, Turn then sl-st past that set and start your
pattern for the next row.
Each row you will work till one set from the
end.
Of course, you need not get the diagonal
finish.. you could well opt for a neat rectangular finish as well.. but there
you go , with options and decisions!
Once done, fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up.
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If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
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