Friday, 17 March 2017

A REALLY CUTE FLOWER CAP

free crochet baby cap flower pattern

A REALLY CUTE FLOWER CAP


Inspired by a tulip flower, this is a cute little cap that looks like a lovely bouquet of flowers.

I was inspired to make these after I tested for the lovely +Pat Ford on Ravelry.  Find her fantastic patterns at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/doll-tulips-afghan--pillow.  

This cap is made from the crown of the head, down to the forehead.  
I suggest that you use one MC for the whole cap, with two CC for the flowers – green being the obvious choice for leaves, so this is CC 1 and then  your choice of colour for flowers, which is CC 2.
It is also suggested that when working on your hat, always remember to account for the stretch of your yarn, and make your project 1 – 1.5” less than actual circumference needed.

Thank you for joining me as we work on this awesome pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millenium acrylic yarn and our Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

Skill level :  Intermediate
In this pattern, we will be using multiple coloured yarns.  This increases the difficultly level.  Please check the links below for “how to” use multiple yarns.

Abbreviations used :
dc : Double Crochet                                                 rep : Repeat
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet                            st :  Stitch                                  
hdc : Half double crochet                                     sl-st : Slip Stitch
yo : Yarn Over                                                           lp : loop
ch : Chain
MC : Main Colour                                                    CC : Contrast Colour

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc Round.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the Round below.
yo, hk into sp between posts of st from Round below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete

How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour :  http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html




 
How to join the two ends of your work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUGb9pIcsXE


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Before we start, let us visualize what we are about to create here.  We will start our little cap from the crown (top) of the head, and work our way down to the forehead.  Please use the link given above for general head sizing or use the actual measurements for the baby you are working for.  Remember that the choice of yarn, hook as well as the tension you work with will all make a difference to the stretch of the yarn, so factor that in as well when making your projects.

So once we reach the forehead for our project, (working in plain hdc till now), we will work a brim in post stitches (fpdc or front post stitches), and finally for the grand finale, we will work a border with the beautiful tulip flowers.

The front post stitches give a beautiful feature to the cap, and you could work it for a longer portion than given in the pattern if desired.  I would, suggest though, that you keep the top portion all one colour and only work the tulips in one colour and the leaves in green so that they pop up and show their full beauty.
That said, go ahead, be different and create.

Our pattern count here is in multiples of 9

Start : (Using MC) with a magic circle.  9 hdc in the magic circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Pull the circle closed lightly.  (9 hdc)

Round 1 :  2 hdc in same 1st st  and in each hdc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18 hdc)

Round 2 : hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ; rep *to* till last hdc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (27 hdc)
 
Round 3 : hdc in each st till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (27 hdc)

Round 4 : hdc in 1st 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 hdc)

Round 5 : hdc in each st till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 hdc)

Round 6 : hdc in 1st 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (45 hdc)

Round 7 : hdc in each st till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (45 hdc)

Round 8 : hdc in 1st 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54 hdc)

Rounds 9: hdc in each st till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54 hdc)

This should be about right for a 0 – 6 month old baby.  If you are making this cap for an older child, please continue repeats of Rounds 8 & 9 increasing 9 stitches every alternate round till you are just above the forehead. 

For our border section, we will work 5 rounds. So you need to calculate how many inches you will add in 5 hdc rounds, and then work till you are the same number of inches less.  What does this mean?
So say you are adding  1” in 5 hdc rounds, and your final length from crown is 6”, you need to work your increases etc till you are 5” from end, and then work your border of 1” to complete.  Got it?

Round 10 : hdc in each st till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (54 dc)

Round 11 : ch 1 (turning ch), fpdc in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (54 fpdc)

Round 12 : ch 1, fpdc in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (54 fpdc)

Round 13 : ch 1, fpdc in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54 fpdc)

We will now start on our tulip flowers.  Attach CC1 or colour for leaves, Do not cut the MC.

Round 14 : (Using CC 1, working on right side) :
hdc in the 1st 8 sts ; (sc in the next st ; ch 8, sc in same st ; ch 10, sc in same st ; ch 8, sc in same st) all in same next st ;
*hdc in next 8 sts, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Fasten off CC1.  Turn.

Round 15 : (Using MC, working on ‘wrong’ side) :
ch 1, (this is behind the leaves set), sk the two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps and
hdc in the 1st 8 hdc ;
*ch 1, sk the two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps, hdc in the next 8 hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Turn

In this round, we will attach our ch-8 sps down. 
In Round 14, we have worked two ch-8 and one ch-10 sp.  So in this round we will only work on attaching the ch-8 sps, leaving the ch-10 sps for now.

So visualize how we’re working this ‘stitch down’.
There’s a ch-8, then ch-10, then ch-8 sp.  You will start on the left hand side of one ch-8 sp, so you will stitch down that left hand side ch-8 sp first, but as you’re working away from it, it will be behind you.
Then you will work hdc along till the next ch-8 sp which is ahead of you, and then you will grab and stitch down that ch-8 sp which is ahead of you and which is the ‘right hand side’ ch-8 sp of the next set.  Got it?





In the following round, we will add a few stitches so that we get a little bit of a brim all around. 
Please note though that the diagrams above do not show the increased stitches, so use the chart for reference only and not to calculate the stitch count.

So here’s a thought : I have increased about 2 sts between two of our tulip flowers (and I’m working for a 0-6 m size, so this is just right for me).  So if you feel you want a larger brim, increase more stitches and see if that works for you if you’re working on a larger sized cap.  After all, it’s tweaks like this that get designs made ;)
Remember though that the stitch that we must use for the petal is the one bang behind the ch-10 sp , or the stitch that you placed in the ch-1 sp from Round 15.  I would suggest , especially if you are going to play around with the stitch count, then you mark that ch-1 sp now.






Round 16 : (Using MC, working on the right side) : hdc in the 1st hdc, hdc through the ch-8 lp just before this hdc ;
*[2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc] ; 
rep [to] once ; 
hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc ;
hdc in next ch-1 sp ; sk ch-10 lp, hdc in next hdc ;
hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc*;
rep * to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 17 : (Using MC) : hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end.  Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Note : You will end right at the centre (ch-1 sp) behind the ch-10 sp.

We will now work with our Contrast colour for the flower petals, so you will attach that in now and we will work all our stitches through the ch-10 sp attaching it to this round (just like we attached our two leaves in Round 16).  You will work all 6 dc through the hdc and into the st instructed.

Finally we are going to use both the CC2 Contrast colour, as well as your MC Main colour, so you will carry your unused yarn along.  Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

Round 18 : (Using CC 2) :  6 dc all in next hdc through the ch-10 lp ;
(change to MC, taking the CC 2 along) sc in the next 8 sts ;
*(Using CC 2) :  6 hdc in the next st, going through the ch-10 lp ;
(Using MC) :  sc in the next 8 sts* ;
rep *to* all around till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

free crochet flower cap pattern

free crochet flower cap pattern

free crochet flower cap pattern

Fasten off both MC and CC 2.  Weave in ends.

Have fun creating something beautiful and hope the recipient loves it too.
If you have tweaked anything here, do add your notes to the comments, so that we can incorporate it for the next set of visitors who use this pattern… and of course, you will be credited for your input(s).  Cheers

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