Sweet Nothings Crochet: CRISS-CROSS BEANIE

Criss Cross Beanie - a Free Crochet Pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

The Criss-Cross Beanie looks a little like a leaf, with the main middle vein and the lighter veins coming off it. The criss-cross pattern is repeated all around and when worn, opens out really beautifully.

..and I've made a matching cowl again as well, which is at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl-1.html.

This pattern has instructions on how you can make this into a scarf with tassels as well. Thanks for joining me. Come along, let’s create something beautiful

I have been given a second bag of yarn and requested to make beanies & / or scarves for the homeless. I'm hoping that there's going to be even more yarn - which also means there will be more patterns discovered and written.

I've used this stitch before to make a sleeved cowl - that's a beautiful project too.. and you can find that at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl.html

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 70 gms Stallion 8-ply acrylic with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Vardhaman acrylic yarn or Laura knitting cotton .

You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size. Using chunky yarn just means that the project zooms ahead that much faster. So if you want a thicker yarn, just use a few strands together.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn

You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Size made : Adult beanie : 22" x 8.5"

Size only given for yarn estimation.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.

Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st st & in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next st ;

(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)

Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 2 sts ;

(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 2 sts) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)

Round 5 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 3 sts ;

(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 3 sts) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60 sts)

Round 6 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 4 sts ;

(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 4 sts) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (72 sts)

Round 7 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 5 sts ;

(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 5 sts) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (84 sts)

Do a quick circumference check. I have a 7" diameter right now.

Check the top of this blog for the head measurement chart or check this cool calculation reference below.

Crochet Chart for the Criss Cross Beanie

Pattern Detail of the Criss Cross Beanie

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Round 7 : sc in the 1^stdc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc , sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end.

ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Round 8 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end.

ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1st st

We start with the first criss cross round of our pattern.

This first round of our pattern is a little bit tricky – but once we’ve got this figured, the rest is easy peasy.

a) We will be working our diagonal in the sts of Round 7.

So we will be skipping all stitches in Round 8, and be working on the scs of Round 7.

b) On Round 7, we’ll be skipping a total of 4 sts, which will be two ch-1 sps and 2 sc.

c) Finally, we’re working the sl-st in the ch-sp, so just grab the top of that st and slip into it. Got it?

Round 9 :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,

sl-st in the next ch-1 sp of Row 7) ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,

sl-st in the next sc of Row 9)

ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Now for the following row, let’s first understand why we’re doing what we are.

So in Round 9, we’ve worked one set of [sc, ch 1, sc] on that row, but then the chains go into the row below, so basically we’ve got no stitches except the [to], right?

So in the following row, we’ve basically got to add these ‘lost’ stitches in as well, so we will work a combination of {ch 1, sc in the next sc} and then we have (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the middle.

The other thing that we need to remember is that in the following row, we’ll be working on the wrong side – so the chains we made are on the other side.

When we work our (dc ; ch 1, dc), ensure that you keep the ch-5 in front and get to the sc from behind the chains, so that they are flapping freely... as they’re the main part of this pattern.

Got it.. Right then, enough talking.. let’s work this..

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Round 10 :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[ch 1, sc in the next sc] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next sc of Round 8) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Once again, we’re working on our diagonal chain, so yet again we’ll work it in the row below, so the ch-sp in Row 3.

The advantage is that you don't actually have to look for the ch-sp or sc, as you've already got that figured out in Round 9

Round 11 :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,

sl-st in the next ch-1 sp two rows down i.e. Round 9) ;

[ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,

sl-st in the next sc two rows up i.e. Round 11] ;

ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end.

join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Round 12 :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[ch 1, sc in the next sc] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end.

ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Base or border for the Criss Cross Beanie

And just like that we’re done with this lovely crossed pattern.

Repeat Rounds 11 & 12 till you have the length you need for your beanie , ending with Round 11.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Set of Criss Cross Beanie & matching Criss Cross Cowl

As I said before, I've made a matching cowl again as well, which is at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl-1.html. This pattern has instructions on how you can make this into a scarf with tassels as well

... and I've made a sleeved cowl as well - and you can find that at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl.html

Headwear Circumference Calculator

Here's a great way to check circumference

To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.

Remember that yarn stretches - so if it's a bit snug, it's good

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/08/herringbone-beanie.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/08/easy-reversible-beanie.html