REVERSIBLE CABLED BEANIE
This is a surprising beanie - while it is pretty easy using basic stitches, the end result looks so confusing, doesn't it.
In my patterns, I get you to think, just a little bit - but that's half the fun in creativity and making a unique project. With this project, you have a readymade pattern from start to finish using any yarn (with its suitable crochet hook) but you may have to do a small bit of calculation.
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Anette Eriksson Jeans cotton yarn
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 100 gms Anette Eriksson Neon Jeans cotton yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : The cotton demin yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Vardhaman / as well as Oswal acrylic yarns or Laura knitting cotton.
You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size. Using chunky yarn just means that the project zooms ahead that much faster. So if you want a thicker yarn, just use a few strands together.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn
You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced.
Size made : Adult beanie : 22" x 8.25"
Size only given for yarn estimation.
Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch
dc : Double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.
Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14Round 2 (Increase round) : 2 fpdc around the 1st dc and in each dc all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)
Round 3 (Increase round) : dc in the 1st st ;
(dc in the next st ; fpdc around the same next st / fpdc) ;
*dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)
Note : So as we're increasing, we work a dc as well as a fpdc in every alternate st.
From now on, remember that with every increase, we will work a dc as well as a fpdc in the same st to increase.
Round 4 (Increase round) : dc in the 1st 3 sts ;
fpdc around the fpdc ;
(dc in the next 3 sts ; fpdc around the fpdc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)
Now we're going to introduce another set of cables - right in the middle of the existing cables.
See the 3 dc in between, let's work a fpdc in that centre dc (so you have one dc on either side in that 3-dc set from Round 4). Get it?
Round 5 (Increase round) : dc in the 1st st ;
(2 fpdc around the next st ; dc in the next st) ;
*dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; fpdc around the next st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60 sts)
See how beautifully the fpdc are cabling out in the pattern.
Note : Please check how to calculate how many rounds you need to work on (under Circumference calculations below) before heading on.
In case you are working for a smaller sized beanie, and do not need to do any further increases, remember that for the non-increase rounds we will work a dc in each dc and a fpdc around each fpdc. That's how simple it is.
Round 6 (Increase round) : dc in the 1st st ;
(fpdc around the fpdc ; dc in the next st ; fpdc around the same next st) ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ;
*dc in the next st ; rep (to) once ; dc in the dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (72 sts)
Note : Give your work a slight pull / stretch and measure your diameter before you continue working
This pattern has a fantastic stretch and if your yarn is stretchy and your tension is loose, you should be done for an adult sized beanie.
At this point, my work measures 5.75" and this will work for a 21 - 22" beanie (circumference). If you are making a 22" beanie, skip Round 7 and go straight to Round 8
In case you are working for a larger adult beanie (23-24"), continue with Round 7 below and then work Round 8A
Round 7 (Increase round) : dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc around the next fpdc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc*
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (84 sts)
In case you are working on a size 23-24" beanie, skip Round 8 and go straight to Round 9
Remember : For the non-increase rounds we will work a dc in each dc and a fpdc around each fpdc. That's how simple it is.
Round 8 (Non-Increase round) : dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc around the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc*
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (72 sts)
Round 8A (Non-Increase round) : dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc around the next fpdc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc*
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (84 sts)
Once you reach the length needed for your beanie (or maybe 1/" before the length needed), go to the finishing instructions
Finishing :
Finishing Round 1 : sc in the 1st st and in every st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Finishing Round 2 : sc in the 1st sc and in every sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Finishing Rounds 3 - 4 : Rep Round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
The finished beanie
The back of the beanie
and the inside or the underside - which is also lovely, isn't it?
How do I make this beanie for a baby or young adult?
I would start with the same instructions, using any yarn you need with a suitable hook, and then use the circumference calculations and the beanie measurement chart to see what round you need to stop the increase rounds.
What does this mean?
Let's take a practical example. Take the 3month beanie size from the head sizing chart below (which is from the links above, just fyi)
So the circumference of a 3-month old beanie is 16". Our circumference calculations say divide the circumference by 3.14 - so we divide 16/3.14 = 5.09"
This means that once your circumference of work is around 5", you stop the increase rounds and start working just the non-increase rounds.
You will then continue working the non-increase round pattern all the way till the length desired (which for this 3-month baby beanie example is 6"
Exactly the same thing for all sizes - so for Adult Small it is 22/3.14 = 7 and work this for a length of 8.25".
Easy enough, right?
and before you know it, here's a beautiful beanie all done.
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Here are some of my other creations.
and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cup-cake-scarf
and a matching cowl at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teer-cowl
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leher-beanie and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lehar-scarf
with a matching cowl https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-cowl
and a pair of fingerless gloves https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-fingerless-gloves
