Variegated yarn has its own charm and I think using post stitches to work these beanies just made it so much more awesome. I've used post stitches before for different projects. Today's beanies are reversible - with two completely different looking patterns for front and back - pretty awesome patterns too.
Yes, I've forgotten to take photos of the beanie with the underside showing after completion - but that's ok as you will see how gorgeous it is when you make it 😆
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about one 90 gms of Lion brand Mandala acrylic yarn with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue ; embroidery needle International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
For Indians : The yarn I've used today is almost like our Anchor 4-ply knitting cotton. You could use Anchor , Red rose , bamboo yarn , milk cotton yarn or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
With a finer or more delicate yarn, you end up with a finer or more delicate end product.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
This pattern is worked top down (i.e. from the crown to the base of the beanie)
We work with the fpdc (front post double crochet) stitch all the way through the project. Please check out the video for chainless start for the dc so we get a neat finish every round.
We work only along the front of the project using fpdc. This gives a very different look for the front and back of the beanie - and (if you are neat) makes it completely reversible
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Start Round 1: with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Round 2 : Increase round : 2 fpdc in the 1st st ;
and in each st all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)
Round 3 : Increase round : fpdc in the 1st st ;
2 fpdc in the next st ;
(fpdc in the next st ; 2 fpdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)
Round 4 : Increase round : fpdc in the 1st 2 sts ;
2 fpdc in the next st ;
(fpdc in the next 2 sts ; 2 fpdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)
Check the circumference calculations below to see if you are at the size you need for your project. If this is the case, please go straight to Round 8
Remember to take into account the stretch of your yarn as well.
Round 5 : Non - Increase round : fpdc in the 1st st ;
and in each st all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)
Round 6 : Increase round : fpdc in the 1st 3 sts ;
2 fpdc in the next st ;
(fpdc in the next 3 sts ; 2 fpdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60 sts)
This should be about right for a 21-22" head circumference
Remember to check the circumference calculations below to see if you are at the size you need for your project. If this is the case, please go straight to Round 8
Round 7 : Increase round : fpdc in the 1st 4 sts ;
2 fpdc in the next st ;
(fpdc in the next 4 sts ; 2 fpdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (72 sts)This should be just right for a 23-24" beanie
Round 8 : Non - Increase round : fpdc in the 1st st ;
and in each st all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Round 8 till you have the length you need for your beanie.
Then scroll down to the Finishing section below
Circumference calculations :
For head wear, I advise that you make the beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.
Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
This works for all sizes - so for 3m you will work the round till you have 16 divided by 3.14 = 5.09 (so 5" diameter)
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Now depending on how thick your yarn is ; how much stretch your yarn has and how loose / tight your working tension is, I’d suggest that you work till you have about 2” less than the total circumference needed.
Finishing :
There are several ways to end this lovely beanie
1) Continue the pattern all the way to the end - i.e. to the length you want for your beanie ;
2) Work till you are about 1" from the end and then work 1 sc in each st all around - do this for 2 - 3 rounds or till you are at the length needed
3) Work sc for one 1 - 2 rounds and then you could work a round of Crab stitch all around the brim of your cap (which is what I've done)
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
and here's another one using Lion Brand Mandala yarn - such a lovely project again
Whatever you do, this is a wonderful project.
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I have a few pieces of headwear already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
