Sweet Nothings Crochet: SIMPLE LACY SHELL TOP

SIMPLE LACY SHELL TOP

I saw this pattern swatch and thought it would make a lovely top. Crop tops are the “in” thing I’m informed ;) , so here’s what I have made with this pattern.

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I have been inspired by a photograph on Pinterest and here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of some lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor knitting cotton as well

For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I started this pattern off with the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

This is not my pattern – I found this chart and inspiration swatch and this is what I’ve done with it.

Part 1 : Front and Back

The SIMPLE LACY SHELL TOP complete and modeled

We will work two rectangles that are the same – so one each for front and back.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 8 + 4

Start : with fsc in multiples of 8 + 4 for the round chest / bust measure. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st 2 fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next fsc, sc in the next 2 fsc ;

ch 3, sk next fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 fsc ;

dc in the last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 4, sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 2 sc, sc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 dc,

sc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 2 sc ; 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till last 2 dc,

sc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 4 : sc in the 1^st 6 dc ;

*ch 4, sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 2 sc, sc in the next 4 dc*

rep *to* till the last 6 dc,

sc in the last 6 dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;

dc in the last 2 sc. Turn.

And believe it or not.. this is our pattern. Rep Rows 2 – 5 till you have the length you need for your top.

Please read through to Parts 2 & 3 before you carry on.

We will work two identical pieces, one each for the front and back – and we will join the shoulders and sides to make the top.

SO go off and make the two rectangles, and we will meet back here in a bit to work the rest out.

Once you have finished the two rectangles, all you need to do is join up the shoulders, and you have a neat boat-like neckline that automatically works out. You will then join up the two sides, all the way up to the armholes. Fasten off and you are nearly done.

Nearly.. because it’s always neater to finish off with a round of sc. So re-attach your yarn at the neckline (any corner will do) and work a round (or two?) of sc all around. Similarly work a round (or two) of sc all around the armhole edge too for a neat finish.

Part 2 : Neckline shaping ideas

With the original idea, we are working a set of two rectangles, joining and getting a boat-like neckline. If however, you want a square shaped neckline, then read on.

Our pattern is worked in sets of 8, with a 4-dc set and then two ch-3 sps + sc worked over the next 4 dc, right?

So first you will need to decide how deep and wide you want your neckline. Place markers on either side to mark these points. I would suggest that you have these markers at the end of a 4-dc set for convenience.

You will then work per pattern from one edge all the way to the 1^st marker for one side of the neckline, TURN and work back to the armhole edge.

You will continue working on just these stitches in pattern from armhole edge to neckline edge till you reach the shoulder for one side of the top. Fasten off when you reach the shoulder.

You will then re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker for the other side of the shoulder and re-work the same pattern from the neckline edge to the armhole for the other side of the top.

The final decision you need to make is if you are keeping the other half of the top the same dept/width or taking it all the way to the shoulders without change.

Once you have finished both the sides of your top, you will once again first attach the shoulder bits, and then join both the sides all the way to the armhole.

Once again, for a neat finish, you should run a round (or two?) of sc all around both the neckline and the armhole.

Please note that for the neckline, you will need to ensure that you do not work 3 sc in each ch-3 sp, and an sc in the sc in the middle, as this will give you a very floppy neckline (of course, this may give you a nice cowled finish too.. so hmmmm.. go figure). I have decided to work only 1 sc per ch-3 sp, and an sc in the sc in between. After you work the first round of sc, may I suggest that you put your work down and see if it is lying flat.. if not tweak it a tad, and work in a few sc 2-tog after checking (and marking) which points are looking flabby. Got it?

Great.. you’re on your way to becoming an exclusive designer too, aren’t you?

Part 3 : Armhole finishing ideas

For the sleeves, I would suggest that you first run that round (or two?) of sc all around the armhole to start. Then you can work either the pattern or just a few rounds of dc all around to get a small little sleeve edge.

The other thing that you could do is work the same pattern, that you have for the body, around the armhole as well.

Please note though that as you are now working in a round, your stitch count will be in multiples of 8.

Please also note that as we are working with a straight shoulder finish (without any decrease and armhole shaping), I would suggest that you keep the armhole a little looser, so that there is a little *give* (or looseness) in the sleeve around the armhole.

You can make the sleeve length any length you wish, as long as you remember that you are working in a round, and so you must check that you work with the largest round measure (i.e if the upper arm measure is the largest, then that is the round measure you will have for the full length of sleeve... Got it?)

Of course, this also depends on your skill level - and you could well decide to tweak the pattern a bit to get the sleeve shaped too.. if you do, hey have fun.. and if you'd like to.. do share your ideas as comments here, and I will edit it into this blog if you'd like that. Cheers.

Right then.. go back to where you have stopped your work for the body.. and carry on then, carry on (as Tim Gun always said in The Runway show ;) )

Once done, please block your top as per yarn instructions.. get it nicely modeled and photographed and remember to tag and credit me for this superb creation !

Thanks in advance !

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html