Monday, 18 January 2016

SHELLED YOKE


SHELLED YOKE

Shells are just so .. ummm , so lovely, right ?
So using this pattern, I have made a shelled yoke, and I plan on adding a set of sleeves and a base in fabric .. it’s a new creation.. so come along and let’s do this together, shall we?
I was gifted this lovely , soft, unbranded cotton yarn, but as it was only a little bit, thought this was the perfect creation to create with it.

This is not my original pattern. I found this chart on the internet and as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used some unbranded knitting cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                       dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                              ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                              rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to  do here today.  With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work our yoke for the front first and then back, and join the two together, sides and shoulders.

So our start row needs to be half Round Waist.

Start with fsc in multiples of 17 + 3 (till half round waist measure)

Row 1 : hdc in the 1st fsc ; ch 2, sc in the next fsc ; 
(ch 5, sk  next 4 fsc , sc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc) ; 
rep (to) till last  fsc ; ch 2, hdc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st hdc ; 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
 rep *to* till 2nd last ch-3 sp ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp 
[dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 6 times]* ; 
rep *to* till last 7 dc ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 3 times.  Turn.

In the following row we’ll use our dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sps.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
*ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1 , dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; 
ch 1, sc in the last ch-5 sp ; ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 3 times ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : hdc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in the next dc 3-tog ; 
(ch 5, sk next dc 3-tog, sc in the next dc 3-tog) ; 
*[ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next dc 3-tog] ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next dc 3-tog ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last three dc 3-tog ; 
rep [to] once ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, hdc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : sc in the 1st hdc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp*  
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the last hdc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 6 times]* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn.

In the following row we’ll use our dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sps.
Row 8 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; *ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1 , dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 1, sc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 9 : hdc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next dc 3-tog ; 
*(ch 5, sk next dc 3-tog, sc in the next dc 3-tog) ; 
[ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next dc 3-tog] ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next dc 3-tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, hdc in the last sc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 2 – 9 till you reach the armhole level, ending with a Row 6, where we will divide for armholes and then neckline.




Armhole decrease row 1 : sl-st till the 3rd dc of the 7-dc set, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 6 times]* ; 
rep *to* till last 7 dc-set ; 
dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc. Turn.

Armhole decrease row 2 : sl-st in the 1st 7 ch (till the 1st dc) ; 
dc in the next dc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; 
*ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1 , dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ; 
rep *to* till the last 2 dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc , dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

This completes our decrease, so from here on till your neckline, you continue with instructions on Row 9 and then once again repeats from Row 2 – 9.

Now for the neckline, first you need to work out how deep you want it, and so calculate where you want to divide for it ; and you need to mark the centre ch-2 sp on the centre shell for that level, as that will be the centre dividing point.

Once you've reached the shoulders on one side, fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach the yarn and work the mirror image for the other side of the front.

Work the same instructions for the other side (i.e the back, if this is the front you've just worked).  The only difference will be how deep you want the neckline.

Join the front  and back shoulder.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project.  I will be attaching fabric to make the sleeves and the lower (body) part of this creation.. and decide if I want this to be a top or a dress.


And here's a closer look at the crossed cut of the fabric for the back.. let's get whacky and creative ..

So enjoy.. and let your creativity flow too.  
 J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go






































Oh,  I have some yoke patterns made as well.. Enjoy