LOVELY PEAKED CAP
This is a lovely hat / cap pattern that has been on my to-do list for a while .. and guess it’s time has come !
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millenium acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm
This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Advanced. This pattern involves around the post stitches and a complicated set of combinations – so while I’ve never scared anyone to try out a pattern, even a seemingly difficult one, for this one I’d advise that it is advanced and I’ve really struggled to try and make sense of the chart and write it down.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Slip stitch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB3QNbA8Iw&t=1s
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook yo : Yarn Over
st(s) : Stitch(es)
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For your convenience, I have a list of video links for stitches used at the top of this blog, and then I've added a few along the blog too - as and when we use that stitch.
There is a chart available at http://club.osinka.ru/picture-1966481?p=6030706, and here are my notes as I make up this lovely creation... and just in case you had this on your to-do list too.
There’s a really complicated chart that comes with this Pinterest link that I’m trying to unravel.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Start with a magic circle and 12 dc into that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close.
In our pattern we use a lot of the unique front post double crochet stitch (fpdc).
The only thing is that we will be using it as a dc 2-tog, and we will also be skipping stitches in between to give it a neat arrow like pattern – which makes it all so lovely.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
In our next round, we will use one dc twice.
So we will use dc 1 and 2 for our 1st fpdc 2-tog, and then use the dc 2 and 3 for the next set of fpdc 2-tog ; then dc 3 and 4 for the next set of fpdc 2-tog, so on and so forth.
Now as this is going to be troublesome to write out, I’m just going to say it once in brackets, and you will follow this detailed explanation.
In addition to this, (like this is not complicated enough), we’re also going to use the space (though we’re not doing a chain , just the space) between 2 dc’s
Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
This is the fpdc stitch worked over 2 stitches together. View the video at https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI
Round 1 : fpdc 2-tog over the 1st two dc ;
2 dc in the space between this dc and the next ;
(fpdc 2-tog over the same 2nd dc and the next dc ;
2 dc in the space between this dc and the next) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with st to the 1st st.
(12 fpdc 2-tog and 24 dc)
In the following row we’re working a dc 3-tog, but it’s a different 3-tog.
So we will work the first leg of our 3-tog as an fpdc in the 1st dc, then a dc on top of the dc 2-tog of the earlier round, and finally a fpdc in the next dc, and all these three together will make the fpdc / dc 3-tog.
The dc’s we’re using here for the fpdc are those two new ones we’ve placed in the ‘space’ between dc’s.
So as this is too complicate to write in the instructions below, I’m just going to term it dc 3-tog, Ok?
And yet again there’s a set of 3 sts that we’ll add in the space between dc’s.
Round 2 : sl-st the dc 2-tog and next dc ;
(dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts,
3 dc between this dc and the next) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following round, we will use the same dc 3-tog as with Round 2, that has the fpdc over 2 sts and a dc in the centre st that make up a dc 3-tog.
We will also be doing 5 dc between two dc 3-tog sets.
So these 5 dc will be as follows : 2 dc in the sp between the dc 3-tog and the next dc, dc in the next dc, and 2 dc once again in the space between 2 dc.
So for this dc 3-tog, we’re using the 3 dc that we’ve added in the space between the dc 3-tog of Round 2.
Round 3 : sl-st the dc 2-tog and next 3 dc ;
(dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts,
2 dc between this dc and the next ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next sp) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
For the next three rounds we will use a little varied dc 3-tog.
Now the dc 3-tog yet again uses 2 fpdc stitches on the 1st and 3rd leg of the 3-tog and the centre one is the regular dc.
The difference here is that we will skip a stitch, and work our 3-tog over five stitches.
So let me see if I can explain this any better.
We have our dc 3-tog from Round 3, and 5 dc in between two sets of dc 3-tog.
OK so far.
So we will work our dc 3-tog skipping the dc’s on either side of the dc 3-tog, (so this means that we are skipping dc # 1 and dc # 5 using dc # 2 and dc # 4 for the dc 3-tog) ;
and we will work our 2 dc just before dc # 3 ;
a dc on dc #1 and dc # 5 ;
then we will use dc # 2 and dc # 4 for the dc 3-tog ;
and we will work our 2 dc just before dc # 3, ;
a dc on dc ;
and then 2 dc just after dc # 3.
This way we get this ‘new’ dc 3-tog and once again 5 dc between the two dc 3-tog sets.
Hopefully this has clarified the stitch pattern.
So we will work this for Rounds 4 – 6. Phew..
Round 4 : sl-st the dc 2-tog and next 3 dc ;
(dc 3-tog over the next 5 sts, 2 dc between this dc and the next ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next sp) ; rep (to) till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 – 10 : Rep Round 4
Round 11 : sl-st the dc 2-tog and next 3 dc ;
(dc 3-tog over the next 5 sts, 2 dc between this dc and the next ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next sp) ; rep (to) till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 12 : sc in the 1st st ; sc in each dc and each dc 3-tog all the way around. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 13 – 15 : Rep Round 12
We will now work on the peaked portion of our cap.
Peak Row 1 : sc in the 1st dc 3-tog ; hdc in the next 11 sc ; 2 hdc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc ; 2 hdc in the next sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 hdc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc ; 2 hdc in the next sc ; hdc in the next 11 sc ; sc in the next sc. Turn.
Peak Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 3 hdc ;
{(2 hdc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc) ; sc in the next sc} ;
rep {to} 4 times ; sc in the next 9 sts ;
rep {to} 5 times ; sc till the 2nd last st ; sk the last st. Turn.
Now we will basically be repeating the pattern of Rows 1 and 2, but with a few changes.
As we’re all advanced level here, we can actually follow with the chart, so to simplify our instructions.. let’s put in a few markers. There is a centre section that has 4 sc dead centre. We then have 2 sets of 2-hdc with an sc in between. So these are the 2 hdc sets that mark the centre of our peak. Mark the two end 2-hdc sets and we will work a hdc 2-tog in each of these hdc 2-tog every alternate row.
Every other row, we will work an sc in each st all the way from end to end.
The other thing that we are going to do is sk the 1st sc at each end of each row so that we get this neat gradual curve for the peak cap.
I must also confess that I did not work the full number of rows shown in the chart for my peak section. So writing the instructions was getting a bit difficult, when I was not doing it myself.
That said, this is what makes it creative.. and exclusive, so have fun.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/
OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/
Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas
And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.
Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas
Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/
Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/
Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too
