ALL PINEAPPLES SKIRT
How can
one go wrong with a tried and tested ‘pineapple’ pattern.. right??
Once again a
beautiful chart found freely floating on the web, that was shared with me on
Facebook.. and yet again, I marvel at the super speed and ‘service’ of the
internet that makes the impossible (almost) possible.
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Materials used : Unbranded
polyester silk kamal kadai thread (used 2 skeins held together through pattern)
~ about 5 cones , with a 3.00 mm
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Materials used : Unbranded
polyester silk kamal kadai thread (used 2 skeins held together through pattern)
~ about 5 cones , with a 3.00 mm
For Non-Indians : The
yarn I have used is a local Indian one. It is as thin as embroidery
floss. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Waist
: 28 - 30” ; Length : 19”
You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.
Size given just for yarn estimation
Gauge : 5
dc sts (across) x just over 2 dc rows (high) = 1”
Gauge is necessary in this pattern as the waist is a fixed start number of stitches.
Gauge is necessary in this pattern as the waist is a fixed start number of stitches.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
sc : Single crochet
sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
yo : Yarn Over hk
: Hook
lp(s) : Loop(s) st(s) : Stitch(es)
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
Instructions : Using
U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is not my original pattern - it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. However, sadly there is no English written pattern to this super work, so as I make my own creation, I’m writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
Full chart at the end of this write up.
The designer here has
worked the pattern in two identical halves – one each for front and back ,
working from the waist down to the knees.
The start is a fixed 76 sts and I am unable to figure out a stitch count for this BUT I am able to give you an idea on how to work this for a different waist size.
So with the fixed start
of 76 sts, we have the centre pineapple bit of 30 sts, and
the plain sides are the balance 46 (so 23 on each side).
The centre
30 sts stays the same, and that will be worked in pattern.
So, if you
want a different waist size you can add to the side 23 sts and increase the
width that way.
Remember though that I will be writing this pattern with
the 76 st start, so if you have increased the sides, you will need to remember
that each time.
Also, if you are not increasing the length though you have increased the width, you will have the plain section coming down a little differently , but you will still have the superb centre pineapple section, and that will stay unchanged.
There's another thing
you will need to do.
You will need to work a gauge swatch with your yarn
and see if you get the gauge given.
The pattern has been worked for a 27” waist.
The pattern has been worked for a 27” waist.
In case you get gauge, then you will get a 27” waist ; and that’s
how you will calculate how much you need to add to get the size you’ll need.
I would think that to
increase the width of skirt, I would either use a thicker yarn/hook and/or
increase the number of stitches along the side, ensuring that the pineapple
pattern stays exactly along the centre.
I am making my project using the
exact same number of starting stitches as the designer per chart.
The designer has then
joined the front and back pieces (that are made separately) along the side(s),
to obtain the “A”-line shape.
Finally, the designer
has probably used a chain start, but I’d like to introduce a new way of
starting the row with dc’s directly – a chainless double crochet foundation
row.
If you do not like this new stitch, please go ahead with the regular
chain start.
The pattern is the same for front and back. Make two of the same pattern and then join to get your skirt.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start with
76 fdc (using the stitch count as per chart below).
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 1 : dc in the
1st 23 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
(ch 2 , sk
2 dc , dc in the next 3 dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the
next 23 dc. Turn.
Our "V"-st is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Our "V"-st is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st 22 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, sk
ch-1 sp and sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;
(sk 3 dc , “V”-st in the
next ch-2 sp) ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, ch-2 sp and next 3 dc;
“V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;
“V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;
(sk 3 dc , “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc , sk ch-1
sp and sk next dc, dc in last 22 dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st 21 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 3
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) 2
times ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 21 dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st 20 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2
dc in next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) 2
times ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 20 dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st 19 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2
dc in next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 7 dc ;
2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) 2
times ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 19 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st 18 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3,
sc in next dc ; [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch
3, rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 18 dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st 17 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
{rep (to) once , ch 2, 3
dc in the same “V”-st} ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch
3, rep {to} once ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk
next dc , dc in last 17 dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st 16 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
{rep (to) once ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp} ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch
3, rep {to} once ;
ch 3, rep (to)
once ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 16 dc. Turn.
Row 9 : dc
in the 1st 15 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 3
dc in ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 4, sk next
ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch
4, rep (to) once ;
ch 2 , 3 dc in ch-3 sp ;
ch 2 , rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 15 dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st 14 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 4, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
ch 4, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
ch 4, rep (to)
once ;
ch 2, 2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 2, 2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc ;
2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 14 dc. Turn.
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 14 dc. Turn.
Row 11 : dc
in the 1st 13 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2
dc in ch-2 sp ; dc in next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sc in
next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp
;
dc in next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc ,
dc in last 13 dc. Turn.
Row 12 : dc
in the 1st 12 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc,
(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3,
sc in next dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5 rep (to) once ;
ch
2, rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 2, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in
last 12 dc. Turn.
Row 13 : dc
in the 1st 11 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (“V”-st
in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3,
sc in next dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3, rep (to) twice ;
ch 3, sc in next dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in last 11 dc. Turn.
Great job! We’ve
completed one repeat.
Take a look at your lovely project now.
So
there’s this “full” dc side and the “lacy” pineapple centre.
With each
row, you will be decreasing the dc’s by one stitch each and every few rows
you’ll be adding a pineapple – we now have 2 pineapples and 12 dc.
So
continue Rows 7-12, increasing your pineapples in the centre and decreasing the
‘full’ dc section along the side(s) till you have 1 dc on the side, and 3
pineapples in the centre.
Note that
the ‘increases’ are made with an increased set of “V”-st (as you may have
observed) but this increase is only at the
ends and not in the middle section.
The middle section
also has a pineapple that ‘grows’ but that’s with a ch-3 in the line after the
“V”-st set increases.
The chart is given
below, so take a quick look and follow along with the chart, just for the
centre pineapple section.
Along the sides, you will continue reducing one
dc each side with each row.
So just to explain what this means, let's work a few rows
together.
Next row : dc in the
1st 10 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 , 3 dc in same "V"-st
;
{ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, rep (to) once} ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 2, 3 dc in same "V"-st
;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the last 10 dc. Turn.
See what I said about only increasing along the
sides for the next pineapple?
The centre "V"-sts stay as they are, without
increase.
Next row : dc in the 1st 9 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, "V'-st in the next
"V"-st ;
{ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 4, rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 3, rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the last 9 dc. Turn.
Next row : dc in the 1st 8 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (“V”-st in
the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5 , rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) 2 times ;
You will continue with the repeats as given above, till you have only 1 dc along the side.
We will then work the final border.
Carry on and we'll catch
up soon.
Before you head off, here's yet another tweak / idea.
We will end our
last pineapple and start our border pattern as soon as you reach 1 dc along the
sides.
Now this is when you need to calculate if the length will work for
you.
So see how many rows we have left for finishing, and calculate gauge and see if you are happy with the length you will get. If not, then may I suggest that you work a few rows with just the 1 dc along the side (no decreases now along the side) and the pattern in between. You will continue increasing the length this way, till needed.
End with Row 8.
Next row : ch 1, (“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 2,
*3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk 1st ch-4 sp , [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] ;
rep [to]
once,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, rep (to) once ; ch 2,* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
3 dc in last
ch-sp. ch 1. Turn.
Next row : ch 1, 3 dc in 1st “V”-st ;
(“V”-st in the
next “V”-st) ; ch 2 ,
*2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2
sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next ch-sp ;
[sc in next ch-3 sp,
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
ch 5, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc ; 2
dc in next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
3 dc in last “V”-st. Turn
Next row : 3 dc in 1st dc ;
sk next 2 dc, (“V”-st in
next “V”-st) ;
ch 2,
*2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in next 7 dc ;
ch 2, rep
(to) once ;
ch 5, sk next ch-sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sk next ch-sp ;
rep (to) once ; ch 2* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
2 dc in next ch-2 sp ;
dc in next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp
;
rep (to) once ;
sk next 2 dc ; 3 dc in last dc. Turn
Next row : sk 1st dc , dc in next dc ;
sk next dc,
(“V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
*ch 3, sc in next dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3,
rep (to) twice* ;
rep *to* 3 times ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
ch
2, sk next dc, dc in next dc, sk last dc. Turn.
Increase row : sk 1st dc ; (“V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
{rep (to) once ,
“V”-st
in the same “V”-st} ;
*ch 3, sk 1st ch-3
sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3,
sk next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* 2 times
;
ch 3, sk 1st ch-3
sp , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3,
sk last dc , rep {to} once. Turn.
Now you can either work the pattern all the way to the end for each side or you can choose to work till here and then work the border as one piece.
For beginners, I'd suggest working the pattern to the end (including border rows) in one piece and then joining.
For advanced crocheters, you could try working the border after you have joined front and back.
Border row 1 : (“V”-st in the “V”-st) ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
*ch 4, sk next ch-sp ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 4,
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, rep (to) once*;
rep *to* 3 times till
end. Turn.
Border row 2 : (“V”-st in the “V”-st) ;
7 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 5, sk next ch-sp ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 5, rep (to) once ;
7
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Border row 3 : (“V”-st in the “V”-st) ;
dc in next 7 dc ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 6, sk next ch-sp ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
ch 6, rep (to) once ;
dc
in the next 7 dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Border row 4 : sk 1st “V”-st ;
[2 dc
in next dc] ;
rep [to] 6 times ;
*(“V”-st in the next
“V”-st) ;
sk both ch-6 sps and sc , rep (to) once ;
rep [to] 7 times*
;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with (to) once. Turn.
Border row 5 : [2 dc in next dc, sk
next dc, ch 1] ;
rep [to] 6 times ;
*ch 1, (“V”-st in the
next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] 7 times ;
ch 1, * ;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with (to) once. Turn.
Note : In the following row, we’re going to make 3 dc over the 2
dc, so as per you convenience, add 1 dc neatly over either of the 2 sts, ensuring
that you keep the same increase through row i.e you can do either 2 dc in 1st dc,
dc in next dc
OR dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next dc ; but for
neatness, ensure you remember what increase you’re making
Border row 6 : [3 dc over the next
2 dc, ch 1] ;
rep [to] 6 times ;
*ch 1, (“V”-st in the
next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] 7 times ;
ch 1* ;
rep *to* till end ;
sk
the last “V”-st. Turn.
Border row 7 : [sk 1st dc 3 dc
in next dc, sk next dc ;
ch 1 , rep [to] 6 times ;
*ch 1, 3 dc in next
“V”-st ; ch 2, 3 dc in next “V”-st ;
rep [to] 7 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Border row 8 : [sk 1st dc 3 dc
in next dc, sk next dc ;
ch 2, rep [to] 6 times ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3
dc in next ch-2 sp , sk next 3 dc ;
rep [to] 7 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Border row 9 : [sk 1st dc 3 dc
in next dc, sk next dc ;
ch 3, rep [to] 6 times ;
*ch 2, sk next dc, dc in
next dc , sk next dc ;
rep [to] 7 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
And we’re done !!!
.PNG) |
FULL CHART |
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There seems to be some error in row 13. Please help me with it
ReplyDeleteJudie, could you specify what error / confusion please.
Delete