This is a really popular crochet baby dress that’s been making it’s rounds on the internet, and of course,
it caught my attention too. This delicate lacy sleeveless "U"-necked crochet dress has been a joy to create. We use very basic stitches in an easy combination to make this wonderful creation. I've used some Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn but this yarn is not specific for this pattern. You can make this to any size using any yarn and suitable hook.These are my pattern notes on a
‘how-to-make-this-beauty’ as I create my own crochet beautifully lacy baby dress. Thanks for joining me.
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Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ 85 gms with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal & Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size : Chest 16-17 ” ; L 16-18 ” for 0-6 month old
Size given only for an estimation of yarn. You can make this to any size
Gauge : 2 “V”-sts across x 2 “V”-sts high = 1” ; (Skirt Round 2) 6 dc across = 1”
Gauge is not particularly important. With this pattern we work with a stitch count calculation , and can make this to any size
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
st : Stitch ch-sp : Chain Space
ch : Chain. sk : Skip
dc : Double Crochet
Instructions : Using
US terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I have made a few changes to the original pattern – but the original charts are attached.. so choices.. choices .. choices n decisions.. for you
So for this pattern we
make two identical parts – one each for front and back.
We start with the yoke
and then work up towards shoulders, and then go back to that first yoke line,
and go down for the skirt part.
This pattern has
probably been made for a larger sized child – but I’ve decided to make it for a
0-6 month old and my calculations are per my requirement.
Hopefully, the
calculations will also allow you to tweak it to your requirements.
So as I said before, get the stitch count right, and you can make it to
suit a child of any size
Our stitch count is in multiples of 4 + 1
What does stitch count mean? This means you work as many stitches in multiples of 4 and then
add 1 at the end
So if you work in the multiples of stitch count for half the width of the chest for the child you are making this for. Follow all the instructions as given but work it for the width of your dress. Just one small tweak (& calculation) and you can make it for the size you want.
PART 1 : YOKE
(Make two - one each for
front and back)
With today's pattern, you need to start with checking neck size requirement.
The chart is not in English (and yes thank you Google translate) but we only need to know that meses means months and cadenas means stitches. So choose the meses you need and then work the cadenas suggested. 😀
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start with 49 fsc (if you are making this for a 0-9 month old as
well , else work multiples of 4 + 1).
Turn
Note : I’ve
used the original chart which shows ch, but I’ve started with fsc.
I always start my projects with foundation chain as it gives a
neat and stretchy start. In case you are unable to work fsc, (and I urge
you to try - you'll use it everytime, trust me), then start with multiples of 4
+ 2. Work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hook and work an sc all the way
down to the end. Check that you have the stitch count right and then
continue with Row 1.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 1 : sc in 1st fsc
;
*ch 3, sk 3 fsc, sc in next fsc*
;
rep from *to* till last fsc.
Turn .
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Small Shell-st : (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 2 : dc
in 1st sc ; small shell in the 1st ch-3 sp
;
*ch 1, small shell in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ;
dc in last sc. Turn
Row 3 : sc
in 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk 1st small shell , sc in next ch (i.e between 2 small shells)* ;
rep from *to* till the last dc ;
ch 3, sc in last dc. Turn
Row 4 : dc
in 1st sc ; small shell in the 1st ch-3 sp
;
*ch 1, small shell in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ;
dc in last sc. Turn
Row 5 : Rep Row 3
Row 6 : Rep
Row 4
Row 7 : Rep
Row 3
Row 8 : dc
in 1st sc ; small shell in the 1st ch-3 sp
;
*ch 1, small sh ell in
next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
sc ;
dc in next sc. Turn .
Row 9 : sc
in 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk small shell,
sc in next ch (i.e between 2 shells)* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn .
Rep Rows
8 & 9 four times in case you are making it for a 0-9 month old.
In case you are making
it for an older child, continue till you reach the shoulder.
Fasten off. Leave
a small tail for joining the back and weave in ends.
With right side facing,
sk 5 small shells ; re-attach yarn and rep Rows 8 & 9 to match the other
shoulder just made.
One side of yoke made. Please make one more similarly for the back.
Attach the shoulders and attach sides of your yoke, leaving an armhole opening.
We will now work the bottom ‘skirt’ part in rounds.
We will start working on the skirt part of our dress from the other side of the fsc (of yoke).
Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
In case you started with sc, you will be working under that sc Row 1 of your yoke.
So turn your work in such a way that the shoulder portion is facing you, and you have the lower part of the yoke fsc ready to be worked on.
PART II : SKIRT PORTION
For this section, we will work in rounds.
Slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Round 1 : 3
dc in 1st st ;
*(sk 1 fsc, sc in next
fsc ; ch 4,) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
sk next fsc, 5 dc in next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in last
st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sc
in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5 dc set] ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4
sp) ;
6 dc in next ch-4 sp ;
sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in
next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5 dc set] ;
*rep from (to) ;
6 dc in
next ch-4 sp ; sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in
next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : 3
dc in 1st st ;
*sc in next ch-4 sp ;
[(dc in next dc , ch 1) ; rep from (to) 5
times] ;
sc in next ch 4 sp ; 5 dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end ;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sc in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5
dc set] ;
ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 4, sk next dc, sk
next ch-1 sp and sk next dc , sc in next ch-1 sp) ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch
4, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc ;
ch 4, sk next 3
dc, sc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : 3 dc in 1st sc ; *sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch
4, sc in next ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
5 dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : sc in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5
dc set] ;
*ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next
ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) once
;
ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : 3
dc in 1st sc ; *sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp)
;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
5 dc in next sc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : sc
in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5 dc set] ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4
sp) ;
6 dc in next ch-4 sp ; sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in
next dc ;
*rep from (to) ;
6 dc in
next ch-4 sp ; sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in
next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 9 : 3
dc in 1st st ;
*sc in next ch-4 sp ;
[(dc in next dc , ch 1)
;
rep from (to) 5 times] ;
sc in next ch 4 sp ; 5 dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end ;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 10 : sc in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5
dc set] ;
ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 4, sk next dc, sk
next ch-1 sp and sk next dc , sc in next ch-1 sp) ;
rep from (to) once
;
ch 4, sk next 3 dc, sc
in next dc ;
ch 4, sk next 3
dc, sc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 11 : 3
dc in 1st sc ;
*sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
5 dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 12 : sc
in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5 dc set] ;
*ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next
ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 4, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 13 : 3
dc in 1st sc ;
*sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
5 dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in last st.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 14 : sc
in next dc [3rd dc of the 1st 5 dc set] ;
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4
sp) ;
6 dc in next ch-4 sp ; sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in
next dc ;
*rep from (to) ;
6 dc in
next ch-4 sp ; sc in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 15 : 3
dc in 1st st ;
*sc in next ch-4 sp
;
[(dc in next dc , ch 1)
; rep from (to) 5 times] ;
sc in next ch 4 sp ; 5
dc in next sc*;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in last st. Join
with sl-st to the 1st st.
Rows 10-15 are one
pattern repeat as you may have noticed.
So depending on the size
you are working on, rep Rows 10-15 till you get the length needed, ending with
Round 15.
BORDER INFO :
The border is just the
very last row and all we do differently is add a round of picots as we work
that last round. So once you have reached the length needed, here's how
you work your picot edging.
Take a look at the
chart, and work as many (or as few) picots as you wish all around the edging of
your dress.
I have worked a ch 3 picot ; which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch
from hk).
How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
In case this video doesn't come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
FINISHING : I’ve
worked one row of the shell as a border.
My shells are (sc in the 1st st ; sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next
st).
I worked this all around the armhole opening and neck, to coincide
with the shells in the dress and give it a good neat finish.
If you are
working this shell border, first run a round of sc all around and ensure that
you get the stitch count in multiples of 5
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And here's the whole chart
Have a great day and see you soon.
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
Do you have anything for ages 10 - 12? I would love to do something like this for my granddaughter. She is eight but very tall for her age. So size 10 but length of twelve is what would be right for her. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi channage.. so this pattern can be made to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook, making sure that you have the stitch count right. This means that you will work the stitch count for the round chest / round waist size and then continue with the pattern for the length you need. All my patterns are worked on this basis which makes them 'all sized' :) There are links given on all my free pattern blogs for body sizing charts - in case you need them. In your case, you have your model and just use one of her well-fitting dress / garment as a draft back up.
DeleteI also need a vest ( sleeveless pullover) for my eight year old grandson. He’s her twin so again size twelve. I see some vests for eight and ten year olds but I’d like him to wear it a few years rather than just one winter.
ReplyDeleteI have not made a sleeveless vest (that I have blogged or written a pattern about) as yet. However, you could check out my Pinterest boards and see if there are any patterns there that you could adapt for your son. As soon as I get an order for a young boy's vest, I'll have one up on my blog :) Cheers and have a creative day
ReplyDelete