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Doesn't this look just fab - and complicated? well, it isn't.. tis the magic of a very simple stitch and a lovely variegated yarn and we create such a splendid creation. Today, I've used the Linen stitch to make a (wide) headband & just then there's a twist. 😆 I've made loads of headwear, so click here for some wonderful projects.
Read all the way to the bottom of this blog to find loads of methods to make this creation as well as see how you could make this into a beanie. And for more headwear ideas come HERE
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General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
With a finer or more delicate yarn, you end up with a finer or more delicate end product. The spikes will show but thicker yarns show up better.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :hereOR here
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
1) This pattern is worked as a long strip ; the spike stitch is worked only along the front of your project.
2) The length of the strip will be the circumference you need for your project and if you want to add the knot then it's a little more for that bit too.
3) The stitch count is in uneven for the circumference you need for your head.
4) Scroll all the way to the end (after Finishing ideas) for how to make this into a beanie.
Note 1 : How do I calculate the circumference needed?
Below see the chart (which is from the general head sizing chart link above).
See the size you want to make the beanie for - if its say a Small Adult, the circumference needed is 22". Now depending on the looseness/tension of your work and the stretch of your yarn, make the first fsc row 22".
There are two ways to make this headband
1) Easy method : Start with the fsc chain for the length you need (circumference of your head) ; TURN and work the pattern in rows. Work it for the width you need for the headband and then join at the end (giving the twist if you want it
2) Advanced slightly complicated method :
Start with the fsc chain for the length you need (circumference of your head) ; TWIST to join the chain and then work the pattern in rounds. You then work it for the width as needed and there's an automatic twist in the headband with no seaming needed.
Both ideas are given. READ through the whole blog first and then decide what works for you. I'd love it if you could message and let me know what you liked better. Cheers
Start Row 1 : with fsc in an uneven number for the length of your headband (give your yarn a bit of a tug to stretch a bit and then measure). Turn.
In case you find the fsc too hard, please start with as many chain as you need (in even numbers) then work the 1st sc in the 2nd chain from hook. Continue working sc in each chain all the way to the end. Ensure that you final length you need and have an uneven number of sts to start.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 2 : sc in the 1st st ;
(ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till end ;
sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 4 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 1, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you have the width you need for your headband, ending with Row.
Last Row : (An all sc row)
sc in the 1st st and in each ch-sp and sc till end. Turn
Now you can either turn and work a joining row or fasten off, leave a long chain and then join.
FOR THE MÖBIUS EFFECT :
The flap or fold in front is just by attaching the back end st to the 1st st.
Place your work flat on the table or work surface. Now turn the end (side that has hook in it) and attach to the 1st st with a sl-st. So you get what we call an *infinite or möbius* strip. Got it. Just one turn at the end and attach and then that end bit has one side which faces front and one side that is the back of your work - which then gives it this continuous back and front of work effect.
Choose one of the methods given below to neatly sew the ends of your project to create a beautiful knotted headband.
FINISHING SUGGESTION : As we have a seam and would like to keep that under the hair at the back, without giving the wearer an issue of constantly fidgeting to get that in place, may I suggest that you decide where you want the front 'flip' and then lightly sew that bit down. To do this place the headband down on your workspace and flatten such that the seam is in the middle of the circle and the 'flip' is exactly on top of it. Now neaten the flip or fold and sew it down. For authenticity (that the flip/fold is naturally and magically forming) I'd sew a little inside the seam so that the seam still 'stands up and looks naturally formed'. Hopefully you understand what I mean.
METHOD 2 : ADVANCED METHOD ;
In this method we work a fsc chain then give it a twist at the end to join and work in rounds. In the photo above you'll see what I mean by seamless - if you zoom in sufficiently you'll see that 1st st (of the 1st row to 2nd row) 'jump' and the little bump there - (which you may even miss even when zoomed in) but besides that no seam !
What does twist at the end mean?
Work a fsc chain for the length you need then keep it flat on the table or work surface. Now turn the end (side that has hook in it) and attach to the 1st st with a sl-st. So you get what we call an *infinite or möbius* strip. Got it. Just one turn at the end and attach and then that end bit has one side which faces front and one side that is the back of your work - which then gives it this continuous back and front of work effect.
With this kind of pattern you need to be really neat on both sides of work. So if you want the multi colored effect, I suggest you use multi colored yarn.. attachments/joining knots in this pattern will show.
The möbius strip idea
The pattern is the same for this and the Easy method. Please check videos above for this pattern too.
The stitch count for our work is in EVEN numbers.
1) We can join at the end of each round using a slip stitch.
OR 2) We work in spirals without joining (which is what I have done). In this method there is no seam and the wearer does not need to worry about which side is up or down. For this you just work the last st directly into the 1st st in the 2nd round and then on it's round and round in circles till you get the width you need.
Start Round 1 : with fsc in an even number for the length of your headband (give your yarn a bit of a tug to stretch a bit and then measure). Keep your fsc chain flat and then turn the end of the row (the one where you still have your hook in) such that the wrong side shows up. Now join the wrong end side to the right side facing 1st st. This creates an unending circle or the möbius strip
Round 2 : sc in the 1st st ;
(ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) till end ;
A) join with a sl-st to the 1st st ; OR
B) continue in pattern over the 1st st without joining.
What is the pattern ? Our pattern is the linen stitch - which is so simple esp after the 1st row/round. You are working just ch-1 sps over the sc of the earlier row/round and a sc in the ch-1 sp of the earlier row/round. Once you complete that 1st round you can work merrily around spirally without even looking at this pattern sheet. Continue working in pattern till you have the width you need for your headband.
Last Round: (An all sc row)
sc in the 1st st and in each ch-sp and sc till end.
For a neat finish work sl-st in the 1st 5 - 6 sts as we're working in spirals so there is a slight unevenness in the finish of that last round. The sl-sts will hide that.
Remember to check FINISHING SUGGESTION above.
OPTIONAL IDEAS :
I have used a multi-colored thread for my work but you can get this effect with several colors as well. Check the video below to see how to change yarn seamlessly. Then go ahead and work as many row as as you want in different colors. I will not obstruct your creativity by telling you when to change colors - but yes, this is a great way to use up your bits and bots of yarn too.
LINEN BEANIE 3 : If you want an even simpler idea for a beanie, then you will work the pattern in exactly the same way as you would for a headband. The only difference is that you will just work the first row only for the circumference needed. This means that for a 22" circumference, you will work just that much.
Then work the length you need. i.e. : If you are making it for Small Adult, the sizing chart specifies that it needs to be 8.25". So you will start the first round with multiples of 6 in fhdc and work till you have that first round 22". Then work the pattern rounds and the repeats till you have a finished length of 8.25"
You now have a cylinder. Using an embroidery needle, run a round of simple running /basting stitch (which is literally pushing the needle and thread up and down through the top of your beanie) all around the end. It does not matter which end you use as both are the same. I'd advise using 2 skeins (or doubling up your yarn) for strength.
Lightly tug on your yarn as you work around till you close that end of the beanie. Continue working running/basting stitches and tugging on your yarn till you have a perfectly closed circle. Ta Da ! Beanie done !
run a round of simple running /basting stitch
Lightly tug on your yarn as you work around till you close that end of the beanie
Continue working running/basting stitches and tugging on your yarn till you have a perfectly closed circle
Whatever you do, this is a wonderful project.
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