Wednesday, 17 September 2014

NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo of the chevron dress ; free crochet baby dress, free crochet dress pattern
NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS

Just look at this beautiful creation .. how can one just look at it and not want to make it ?   I admire the brain of the designer to come up with this pattern – a chevron, but not quite… awesome.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. 

Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ 100 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G)  crochet hook ; embroidery needle sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttonspress buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette  ; beads n more

For Indians You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
     
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.


Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”
Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”
You can make this to any size and gauge does not matter.  
I have given size so that you can estimate yarn requirement

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :   https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY


Magic circle :  https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing


Whipstitch to join :  at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join :  https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join :  https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI


Abbreviations used :
dc : Double Crochet       yo : Yarn Over
hk : Hook                        sk : Skip
sl-st : Slip stitch              sc : Single Crochet
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

             
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 


I found this pattern floating on the internet – and as it only has a chart, I am transcribing (so to say) the chart and writing out my pattern for those who need that little bit more of an explanation.

This is not my pattern, and I take no credit for it. (Original pattern : www.korolevstvo-masterov.ru) . The charts attached here are those I found on the original pattern sheets, of the designer (I think).  

You can make this dress to suit any size, using any yarn / hook you want. 
Just ensure that you get the stitch count right, and you've got a beautiful baby dress. 

For this creation, we will  start from the yoke, and work up to the shoulders.  
We will then go back to that first yoke row and work down for the skirt portion.


PART 1 : THE YOKE

Note :  I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.  
The chart below is the original one, for information.  
The stitch count in the chart would probably work for a 3 yr old child.  
I have also attached below a chart for starting with 56 fsc (from another pattern) – so choose your yoke size and let’s carry on.  

Please also check the top of this blog where there are links for neck sizing.  
The chart(s) come with age and standard sizes. 
So say you are looking at 0-6 messes (months), your start will be 54 cadenas (stitches). 
You will place markers for the corners at  8th st ; 11th st ; 16th st; 11th st.  
This chart is designed so that you will have an opening at the back (so 8 + 8 for back and 16 for front)  
The 11 each side will be the shoulder / armhole opening.  Easy enough, right?

I am writing specific instructions according to the size I have made.  

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  

Round 1 : Start with 56 fsc.  Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0


Round 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
dc in the next 5 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc ; 
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; 
dc in next 12 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; 
dc in the last 6 fsc.  Turn.

Note : The (2 dc in next fsc ;  ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc) marks the corner.  
If you are using any other count start, ensure that you get the (to) in each corner. Remember that each corner has this pattern going along, no matter what your stitch count for the stitches in between corners.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) ; 
rep from (to) twice ;
*ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 7 times ; 
ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 3 times ; 
dc in last dc.  Turn.

Round 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
(dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) ; 
rep from (to) 3 times ; 
*2 dc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 10 times* ; 
rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; 
dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 4 times ; 
dc in last dc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4, ending with Row 4 , till you have a yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.

After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eye-holes’ for my buttons on one side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  


Pattern with a start of 56 sts (ch used here, fsc used by me)

Detail of corner
This is the original chart from the designer


PART 2 : THE SKIRT
I prefer to start my dress projects from the centre back, but this should work even if you re-attach and start from under the arm.  
Do remember that the first row we need to close up the armhole opening - so when you reach the corner ch-2 sps, you will do one half of the corner st in one ch-2 sp, and the other half in the other ch-2 sp (i.e assuming you are in the back portion ch-2 sp, and we’re working on a 2dc pair st, you will have one half of the pair in the back portion, and the next dc in the front half)

The stitch count for our skirt is in multiples of 8

So on completion of your yoke, please see that you have  multiples of 8 to start.  

Our "V"-st is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 1 : “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next st ; 
ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; 
ch 1,  (3 dc, ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st. 
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; 
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : Rep Round 2

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; 
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (4 dc ; ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; 
ch 1,  (4 dc ; ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : Rep Round 5

Round 8 : Rep Round 6 


I am sure you’ve got the pattern now.. every four lines, you’re adding one dc to the group, and every alternate round you’re moving your group of stitches from one side to the other.  

Basically we will rep Rounds 5 & 6  – note that the increases have been indicated by the designer with a darker dc as are the increases in the chains (the first ch increase coming in Round 9).
And here’s the full chart .  

So you’re all set to continue now.   
Work till you have the length of dress needed.   
Right at the bottom there is a border, so check the pattern and if you are going to work that border in, then work 2 rows less  (as that's our border)  than full length needed.   
There is a border at the very end ..Now the designer has reached a “dc-set” of 9 dc’s so in her border, she’s ensured she has 9 dc’s but they’re in a different ‘set’ – she’s used a  [(dc 2-tog) twice, dc,  (dc 2-tog) twice] combination. 

Chart for the border

Finished photo of the designer's project

And can you believe it.. you’re done ! Great job !
So as usual, fasten off, weave in ends.. add a set of buttons around the back and beautify with a lovely satin ribbon ! 

Wow ! This one was a quick project and I’ve really enjoyed making it – hopefully so have you.

So ciao, and see you soon.. in the next blog.  Have a good day too 

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

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