GYPSY
SHELLED SKIRT
How can anyone go wrong with shells – several of my original
designs have been inspired by this lovely pattern from nature.
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Materials used : ICE
Baby Batik ~ 150 gms , with a 4 mm
About this lovely yarn : ICE Batik is a really nice yarn – soft and smooth, sport
5-ply yarn (12 wpi) , and a US 4 / 3.5mm crochet hook has been
recommended.
This yarn is not specific for this pattern. Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this Gypsy skirt to any size.
For Indians : This
is a little thicker than our Indian Vardhman baby soft - probably a little
like our Vardhaman Millenium. I would probably equate it with our Indian Laura knitting cotton
yarn.
For this pattern though,
a lighter yarn would also work perfectly – so our Indian Ancho, Red rose or
Red heart yarns would probably show the stitch detail perfectly – and as they
are lighter yarns, you’d get a lot more ‘shells’ in which also means a lot more
fall n spin in your skirt – always a good thing with skirts, methinks
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Waist
: 28-30” : Length : 22”
Gauge : 3
dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”
Gauge is not important.
You can make this skirt to/for any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
This
is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
hdc : Half Double Crochet
General Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is not my original
pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies
over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them
with you.
I take a lot of effort and time into explanation and providing links
as applicable.
This skirt starts off with a tiny little shell, and as we proceed through the skirt, the shell grows in size. It is , therefore, easily adaptable, with regard to length – and of course the width will be easily adaptable once you figure out the pattern repeat.
Original pattern link probably one
of these two and the photograph below is the inspiration that got me started on
this lovely project. http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4632770/post334069685/
or http://www.stranamam.ru/post/7893485/
This skirt starts waist
down (so top down).
The pattern sheet shows
a line of chain stitches for the start.
I am, however, going to
start with a row of fdc, and for the first few rows.
Before we head off to the pattern, here are a few thoughts
a) I am going to work in rows, so as to add a zipper at the
back.
I am therefore, going to work a few rows of dc before starting the
pattern
b) You could, however, make the waist a little larger than needed (maybe just a bit smaller than needed for hips), and then after the first 2 or 3 rows, work in rounds, and then instead of a zipper, use a button to close that opening.
c) As I do not
know how each of you will be working the closure bits, I will write this
generally, like we’re all working in rounds, which is why you will join with a
slip stitch at the end of each row.
d) In case you are
leaving the 1st few rows for the zipper or buttons, remember
that you will TURN at the end of each row.
The pattern is constant,
whether you’re working in rows or rounds.
e) This “A”-lined
skirt can easily be a lot longer than the 20 odd rounds I’ve written – so in
case you want a longer skirt, please repeat till you have the desired length.
My project measures W :
28-30” ; L : 18” (before border); and I have written the pattern (almost) as
charted all the way till Round 29.
I said
"almost"because in the chart below, there are 2 dc’s on each end of the
pattern – which seems off-sync.
The 1st row
pattern has a set of 3 dc and one set of hdc,ch 3, hdc – and if we have 2 dc’s
each end, we’ll have this one lot of 4 dc’s running along the back.
So I’ve changed the
pattern here – but as I always say.. if you want to go per pattern.. go for it
f) This is a lovely “A”-lined skirt and the shells open the
pattern out nicely. so here’s a thought (especially if making this for a
younger child), rather than calculating start stitches by waist, go with the
hip measure – so you avoid the zipper and buttons on the waist band, and then
add an elastic along with a belt on top so you get a lovely finished frilly
effect as well.
You would, of course,
have to do one line of (dc in dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) – so you
get a set of ‘holes’ in the waist in which you can thread in a thin cord-like
belt.
f) I’ve yet one final observation. I have started my project with fdc (foundation double crochet). I strongly urge you to try this stitch but in case you just can't, please do start with chain in multiples of 8 + 3 and then work the 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook, and work 1 dc in each ch till end. At the end of the row, please check that you have dc in multiples of 8 + 1(our stitch count)
Ok.. we can finally
start with our skirt now
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Our stitch count is in multiples of 8 + 1.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start with fdc in multiples of 8 + 1.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st fdc.
(Please read note above before joining)
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Round 1 : 2
dc in 1st fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc,
(hdc in next fdc ;
ch 3, hdc in same fdc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, 3
dc in next fdc ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 fdc,
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, 3 dc in next fdc* ;
rep *to* till last 8 sts
;
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, rep
(to) once ;
ch 2, dc in last fdc.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st fdc.
Round 2 : ch
3, hdc in next dc ;
ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in
next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2, hdc in last dc.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 3 : 3
dc in 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 4 : (Increase
row) :
sk 1st dc, hdc, 2nd dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same
2nd dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp
;
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 4 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
join with a sl-st to the
1st hdc.
Round 5 : 4
dc in 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 4 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 4 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 : (Increase
row) :
sk 1st dc, hdc 2nd dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same
2nd dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp
;
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
join with a sl-st to the
1st hdc.
Round 7 : 5
dc in 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc
in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 8 : sl-st
into next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc)
;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 9 – 10 : Rep
Rounds 7 & 8 once
Round 11 : Rep
Round 7 once.
Round 12 : (Increase
row) :
sl-st into 1st 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc
in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 13 : 6
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 2
dc, (hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 14 : sl-st
into 1st 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc)
;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 15 : (Increase
row) :
7 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 2
dc, (hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 16 : sl-st
into 1st 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc)
;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st
to the 1st hdc.
Round 17 : 7
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next
dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 18 & 19 : Rep
Rounds 16 & 17 once.
Round 20 : (Increase
row) :
sl-st into 1st 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc
in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st
to the 1st hdc.
Round 21 : 8
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next
dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 8 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 22 : (Increase
row) :
sl-st into 1st 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc
in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st
to the 1st hdc.
Round 23 : 9
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4
dc, (hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 24 : sl-st
into 1st 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc)
;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st
to the 1st hdc.
Round 25 : 9
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next
dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 26 – 27 : Rep
Rounds 24 & 25
Now do a quick length
check and see if you’re ok – else one more increase ..
I’ll just take you
through one more.. though I’m sure you’ve figured it out by now
Round 28 : (Increase
row) :
sl-st into 1st 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc
in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 10
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 10
dc in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st
to the 1st hdc.
Round 29 : 10
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next
dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 5 dc, 10
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc,
(hdc in next dc ;
ch 3, hdc in same dc) ;
ch 2, sk next 5 dc, 10
dc in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3
sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 ,
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Right in case you’re
length is good.. stop here.. else you do 2 more rows of non increase and then
one increase again.
When you’re happy with
the length, we’ve got a small border to finish it all off neatly.
Border Shell :
Depending on which round
you’ve ended on, the border start may differ – so before I
write out that pattern line, here’s what we’re going to remember.
(1) We’re all
going to work our (hdc ; ch 3, hdc in same st) in the large shell st ;
(2) and this
border shell will be worked in the (to) of the previous row.
Border row stitch detail
"how to" :
(sl-st to the centre of whichever st you are in – so if you
are in a dc-shell st, sl-st to the centre, and if you’re in a ch-3 sp, come
into that ch-3 sp) ;
sc in the same st ;
ch
6, sc in the centre of the next st set, and go around the full skirt with a
ch-6 and sc in centre of the sts.
Join with a sl st to the 1st sc.
Border Row : 3
dc in sc ; 4 dc in next ch-6 sp ;
ch 2, (hdc in next sc, ch 3, hdc in same sc)
;
*ch 2, [4 dc in next ch-6 sp ; 3 dc in next sc ; 4 dc in next ch-6 sp] ;
ch
2, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
4 dc in last ch-6 sp.
Join with a
sl-st to the next dc.
Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, show off
your lovely gypsy shelled .. you deserve to
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