Today we're going to work on a really cute little crochet skirt for a little girl. The top waist part of the skirt is in simple crochet stitches and then it gradually opens out into a large leaf-like pattern that ends in large shells. This free crochet pattern for the skirt is just perfect and can be made to any size using any yarn with a suitable hook.
I was recently gifted this Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 yarn and I added some Indian Red rose and worked this with a 3mm crochet hook. I thought it would be just perfect if I could make something and gift
it back. Getting just the right pattern
that would do yarn justice and reduce wastage is always a challenge, and I’m
hoping my choice here suffices. Thank you for joining me.
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To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers. This is Pinterest link that inspired me on my project and the image below is from that link. As I work on this pattern with my own project, these are my original notes.
Materials used : Today
I’ve used a really lovely combination of one ball of Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 100% cotton & about a ball of Indian locally available Red rose knitting
cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook.
a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal 4-ply yarn ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Intermediate.
Size made : I
have made this for a 2 yr old.
You can make this to any size. Size only given here for yarn estimation.
Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here
today. We start at the waist of our
skirt and work down. I will be giving instructions as if we’re all working in
rounds.
I’ve made
this for a two year old slender girl, but this pattern is so lovely that one
can make it in any size.. all the way through to adults, I’d say.
As always, I will be offering you lots of
choices and links, so may I suggest that you please read through it all
before you make decisions, to avoid ripping n frogging. Cheers.
Right then.. first we need to measure the waist
and hips of the little kid we’re working this skirt for, and then we will work
that first row with the hip measurement (unless the difference between the two
is too high). In case the difference is too high, may I suggest one of two
options :
Work with the hip measurements and then add
either an elastic around the top or add loops so that you can loop in a belt to
cinch it ; or
Ensure you work in a gradual increase by adding
2 dc’s in the 1st st for the first few rows on either ends, so that
you get the width needed for hips.
If you are working a skirt for someone who has a
big difference between hip and waist measurements, and are going to do the
increase gradually, please note that you will be working in rows, and
should then add 3 dc each end.
Working in rows will mean that you are going to work two halves
separately for a bit, add in the 2 dc at each end and give it the shape
desired, then join the sides when you feel that you have a measure that will go
easily around hips, and then work the scalloped / shelled frilly bits in
rounds.
Finally, you could also work just the
first few rows back and forth (so you will need to add those extra sts for the
back placket addition as well) and then join up after a few inches and work in
rounds.
While I’ve made this skirt for a child, you can
actually make this for an adult as well, as long as you’re ready for some
calculations and ready to read through this long-winded blog
Our stitch count is in multiples of 14.
Part 1 :
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start Round 1 : with fdc needed for round waist / hip measure in
multiples of 14.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Round 2 : dc in the 1st fdc ; dc in each fdc till end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
dc in the 1st fdc ;
dc in each fdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Now here’s the beauty of this
pattern , because right from the start your creativity can come to play. We will be repeating Round 3 for a bit, but
it’s here that you can decide how long you want to make it. So you can either work this plain dc set all
the way from the waist to the hips, or you can work just a few rows of
plain dc and then start on the shelled / scalloped pattern right off. Just in altering the number of scalloped
rounds you have will make it a totally different looking skirt.. now isn’t that
just fabulous.
So continue the repeat till
your dc portion is the length you want. We will make a ‘holey’ row for the last
one, so let’s get that done.
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Last Round : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 1 and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
this is the inspiration photo detail and this is what I have done
PART 2 :
Frill Pattern
Instructions
The frill instructions stay the
same for each layer.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in
the next dc ;
*ch 5, sk next two ch-1 sps and dc ; sc in the next dc ;
ch 5, sk
next two ch-1 sps and dc ,
[dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in
the next dc] ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch
1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5
sps ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the nexxt 3 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc
in the next ch-3 sps ;
ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 5, dc
in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following round, we will
use a “V”-st in the ch-5 sp.
Our “V-st
is [dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-sp]
Round 4 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 2, sc in the next ch-4
sps ;
ch 2, sk next sc , sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch
2, “V”-st in the next ch-5 sp] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all
around,
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-2 sps ;
ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, 7 dc in the
next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
ch 2 and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 1, sk next two ch-3 sps
and sc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next
dc] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
ch 2
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following round, we will
use a dc 2-tog as well as the trc 3-tog.
We will also use our ch-3
picot.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Triple / Treble crochet 3-tog : trc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/O8HM5j8ZXHw
Round 7 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*(sk next 2 dc and ch-sp,
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , trc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp
;
[ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc , trc 3-tog
in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve done with one round of
scallops and to work the next set, we will need to work a set of (dc ; ch 1,
dc) spaces all around.
So this set of (to) is also a
regular repeat for each set, and each set is worked under the scallops
just worked.
PART 3 :
Re-attach your yarn to any dc
from the Last Round of Part 1.
This first round will be a
little tricky, and all rounds after this will be easy-peasy. We will need to
work this first set of dc’s around the post, but we’re not really working post
stitches.
The second thing that we’re
doing here is adding a few stitches so that there will be more scallops in the
next round.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 1 and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : Increase round :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1,
dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Ensure that at you have dc in
multiples of 7 or better still, count all
your dc and ch-1 sps and ensure that you have sts in multiples of
14, which is our pattern repeat.
Calculations : So how do you decide how many multiples you need for the
second round. Well, Elementary my dear
Watson (as Sherlock would say?)
So every set of 14 sts gives
you one scallop.
So say you started with
140 sts, you should have 10 scallops on that first round.
So if you want 14 scallops, you will need (
14 x 14 = 196 sts ).
196 sts means dc + ch-1 sps
combined.
So yet again, I have offered
you a decision and choices for your creativity.
Enjoy.
Continue increasing till you
have stitches as per the calculations above, and then work without any
further increase till you have a total of 7 rounds.
You will then work one set of
scallops / frills – so instructions of Part 2, Rounds 1 – 7.
Rep Part 3 and Part 2 till your
skirt is of the length desired, ending with Part 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m
sure you’ll agree.
So if the skirt gets short for your lil baby girl, but her waist size still fits, then just add one round of frills, and voila! you have yourself a new skirt.. so howzatt for a last idea before we say good bye
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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Have a great day and see you soon.
I have a few lil girl’s clothes already made,
and just
in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
Oh and I do have some skirt patterns too.. for
young ladies.. so do visit my blog for those.
Check out some more skirt patterns
Check out my belt patterns
I truly look forward to trying your patterns. They are beautiful and I hope I can do them justice.
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