SIMPLY LOVELY SKIRT
What does one do when one sees a
photograph of an extremely exquisite project, then manages to find a chart ....
and then have yarn in hand too.. wellllllll.. guess you’d do what I have.. Make
it !!!
This is not my original pattern. I found a chart on the internet and am using it to make my project. These are my notes as I work along my project.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Materials used : Anchor knitting cotton about 200 gms (Shade 00119) ; 3.5 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
Please note : Hook recommended for this yarn is 2 – 2.5 mm. I prefer the slight stretch offered with by using a larger hook size.
For Indians : You can use Red rose / White rose knitting cottons as well. Alize has a wonderful range of cotton yarns as well, which will give you a superb fall too.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Waist 27" ; Length ~ 18"
You can make this to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook
Size given only for yarn estimation.
Gauge : I do not give a gauge as I like that my patterns can be used for any size and with any yarn / hook.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.
The stitches used are basic, but there are calculations that need advanced skills.
There is also a slight mismatch between the chart and my pattern instructions, so you will need to pay attention to the pattern repeat
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Abbreviations used :
Sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet rep : Repeat
sp(s) : Space(s) sl-st : slip stitch
sk : Skip
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog
dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog, as well as through the blog, for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Our stitch count for today's pattern is in multiples of 18
In this pattern, 18 sts make one pattern rep, so work your start row accordingly ensuring that you have the number of stitches needed to go around your waist.
Remember the instructions for fitted and non-fitted waist.
As with all my patterns, you can make this skirt for any size, as long as you have the stitch count right.
Before you proceed any further – decide if you’re going to have a fitted waist or not.
If fitted waist, then work in rows for first few rows, and once you think project will slip over hips, join and start working in rounds.
You will then attach a zipper and button to that back after lining.
If not fitted waist, then please work in rounds from foundation row and ensure that the first row goes around your hips.
I worked in rows for the first few rows, as I wanted a zipper attached back.
I then started working in rounds once I had a waist and started the pattern lines below.
Even though I worked in rows initially, I worked for the round waist measure.
In case you do not want the flat waist portion, you could start the pattern right from the first row.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Starting with fsc, (working with multiples of the stitch count)
The designer seems to have done a start row of sc / fsc, followed by a rows of sc till project = 3”.
I’ve worked in rows till my project was ~4” and then joined and worked in rounds.
If you want the roped finish like the designer, then as said before, you will work in rounds. So I’d suggest you start, and after a few rounds in sc, you do the ‘hole row’.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
"Hole" row instruction : dc in 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all the way around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following row, you will work a sc in each dc and ch-1 sp all around, ensuring that you once again have the stitch count needed.
Work a few more rows of sc as needed, before starting the pattern for the skirt.
Skirt pattern instructions
As indicated at the start of this blog, this is an intermediate to advanced pattern only because you will need to figure out part of the start/end of this pattern as per your work.
I have tried to make sense of the chart and coincide it with the project in hand… and I think I have written it correctly.
However, when I reached the border rounds (Rounds 20 on, I found that it was getting increasingly more and more difficult to get the start/end bits right).
That said, once you start working, you will get a hang of the pattern, and will know what you are meant to do. Fingers crossed and let’s start.
Right, so once you have made the flat waist band of sorts, we start on the leaf n floral pattern for the skirt body.
May I suggest that you work in rounds.
If you have worked a small zipper opening, join in the last row and let's work in rounds hereon.
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in stitch or ch-sp, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all loops on hk. One dc 3-tog made
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Round 1 : sc in 1st sc ;
ch 3, sk 2 sc, dc 3-tog in next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 sc, dc 3-tog in next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 : sl-st onto the 1st dc 3-tog ;
(dc ; ch 1, dc) on the same dc 3-tog ;
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, sc on dc 3-tog ;
ch 5, sk next 2 ch-3 sps & sc , sc on the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, rep (to) in next dc 3-tog* ;
rep from *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 1, 7 dc in ch-5 sp ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
2 dc in next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1 , dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 5 : dc in 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc]* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the next dc (i.e the 1st dc you started with).
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, dc in next dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc]* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 7 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 1 , 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , 2 dc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in next 2 dc] ;
*ch 3 , sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 3 , dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep * to * till end ;
dc in the next dc (i.e 1st dc you started with).
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 8 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
*ch 2 , sc in next ch-4 sp ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 2, [ {sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc} ;
dc in next ch-1 sp ;
rep { to } once ]* ;
rep * to * till end ;
dc in the next dc (i.e 1st dc you started with).
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 9 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp ; dc in next 2 dc] ;
*ch 2, (sc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, dc in next dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in the next dc (i.e 1st dc you started with).
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 10 : 2 dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc ; dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
dc in next 3 dc] ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, sc in ch-4 sp ;
ch 3, rep [to]once ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 3, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 11 : 2 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 6 dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , sk next ch-3 sps and sc , dc in the next 6 dc ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc]* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 12 : dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
*ch 3, sk 1 dc, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next 4 dc ; c
h 3, sk next dc , 2 dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
In our next round, we will work a dc 3-tog.
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in stitch or ch-sp, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all loops on hk. One dc 3-tog made
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 13 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc] ;
*ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 2 , dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 14 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc,
[dc in next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp]
*(ch 3, sk dc 3-tog ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the next 2 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc , rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now here’s where calculations come in.
We have kind-of reached the end of a pattern repeat.
We now have about 9 rounds left to reach the end of the pattern along with the border.
So here’s what you gotta do. Check gauge.
What does this mean?
Check how many inches you will get in length with 9 rows of your work.
I do not give a gauge as I like that my patterns can be used for any size and with any yarn / hook as I’ve mentioned right at the start, but this means you gotta figure this bit out.
So if you think that adding the last 9 rounds will give you the length needed, then you will go straight to Round 19.
Else continue with Round 15 on, to extend the length of your skirt.
Round 15 : 2 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
*[ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 6 dc] ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep [to] once ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc}* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 16 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
*ch 3, sk 1 dc, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next 4 dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , 2 dc in next dc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 17 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc] ;
*ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 18 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc,
[dc in next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp]
*(ch 3, sk dc 3-tog & dc, dc in the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Your pattern repeat rounds to increase length are Rounds 15 – 18.
So here’s another calculation.
Once again, you will need to calculate gauge.
See how many inches you are gaining with these four repeat rounds.
Then you need to decide if you are going to end with the large border round, which is a total of 9 rounds.
Once you have all these measurements in hand, go ahead and work repeats of rounds 15-18, ending with a Row 15.
You may have repeated your pattern once, which means that you will actually be on Round 22 when you come back for the last few border rounds.
However as this pattern can be made for any length (including a full length down to floor level), I am just going to continue numbering the rounds from 18.
So technically Round 19 may not be your round count, but we’ll keep it this way for continuity.
Round 19 : dc in 1st 2 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc] ;
*(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep [to] once ;
{ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc} ;
ch 2, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Right at the start I told you about the worries I had with the chart and how I was interpreting it. You have figured it out thus far, so here’s when it gets tricky again.
Let me explain what we’re trying to do now.
We are ending the two leaf-like patterns and are going to work a lovely flower-like pattern in the middle of the two leaves.
When we start, we start somewhere in that centre bit which is why it’s so confusing.
Now our centre bit, where we will start our flower, is the ch-5 sp, and that’s what we have right at the start. Got it?
Place a marker here if needed, as most of our work will now be centered here.
Round 20 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc] ;
*(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo
Round 21 : dc in 1st dc ; 8 dc in ch-3 sp ; dc in next 2 dc ;
*ch 3, [sk next dc, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
dc in next dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
ch 3, {dc in next 2 dc ;
8 dc in the ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc}* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
In our next round, we will work a dc 2-tog.
Round 22 : dc in 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in next dc) ;
rep (to) 9 times ; dc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, [dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sk next dc ;
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 11 times* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 23 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
sc in same 1st ch-1 sp ;
{ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp} ;
rep from {to} till the last ch-1 sp ;
*ch 3, sc on next dc (top of dc 2-tog) ;
(ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc, sc on next dc <on top of dc 2-tog> ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep from {to} 10 times till last ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 24 : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ;
sc in same 1st ch-4 sp ;
{ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp} ;
rep from {to} till last ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, sc on next sc ;
(ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sc on next sc ;
ch 3 , sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
rep from {to} 9 times till last ch-4 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 25 : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ;
3 dc in same 1st ch-4 sp ;
(ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep (to) till last ch-4 sp ;
*ch 2, (ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
rep from (to) 8 times till last ch-4 sp* ;
rep from *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 26 : (dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) ;
ch 1, rep from (to) till last 3-dc group of this set ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, rep (to) once ;
{ch 1, rep (to) once} ;
rep {to} 7 times* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Round 27 : dc in 1st 4 dc ; (ch 1, dc in next 4 dc) ;
rep from (to) till last 4 dc group ;
*ch 1, dc 2-tog over 2 next 2 dc ;
rep (to) 9 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
In our final round, we will work a dc 4-tog.
dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 4-tog made.
Round 28 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Check this out.. you’re almost done.. and what a beauty you have created.
Final finishing ideas :
Option A - Cord : Make a row of fsc which is about 1.5 times your round waist measure, and then turn and sc in each fsc till end. If you’re happy with the width of this cord, great.. else turn again and one more sc in each sc till end.
Option B - Cord : Holding 2-3 yarns together, and a larger hook, sc a chain length 1.5 times your round waist..and leave the extra yarns at the end (like a stringy slender pom-pom) and you’re done
Option C : Fitted waist : If you’ve decided on a fitted waist – first attach your lining, and attach the zipper with the lining for a simpler, neater finish. and
Option D : Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
And we’re DONE !!!!!
Is it good.. or IS IT GOOOD???
Till we meet again in my next blog.. have lots of fun showing this off and spread those smiles.
Remember that when you show your work off on social media, please add my blog link so that someone else can benefit from this freebie as well.. Pay it forward!
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/
OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/
Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas
And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.
Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas
Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/
Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/
Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage
Have a great day and see you soon.
Check out similar
patterns that you may like to take a look at
Fabulous Shyama!
ReplyDelete