Sweet Nothings Crochet: BEAUTIFULLY SCALED FINGERLESS GLOVES

BEAUTIFULLY SCALED FINGERLESS GLOVES

Yes, I too have been bitten by the "Crocodile Bug".. or rather that wind has struck one of my clients – and I’m joining the bandwagon to create a pair of fingerless gloves.

I am sure that there are patterns for this out there, but I am unable to find one.. so I’m going to just write it as I make it. I am writing it such that you can make this for any sized arm using any yarn. All you’ll need to calculate (yep, some math involved), is how many stitches you’d need for your glove ease, and you’re done.. that ain’t that much math now, is it?

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Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein / hank of our lovely Indian Vardhaman millennium DK ply acrylic yarn , 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn ; Alize bamboo yarn ; Spotlight stores 4-Seasons Marvel and Stallion yarns or Hobby Lobby I-Love-this-cotton yarn

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Before you start on this pattern, may I suggest you take a quick look at the video to get a hang of the crocodile stitch, which is the main pattern for this creation.

Our pattern repeat is multiples of 4

So here are the measurements you should keep handy before you start with the multiplications.

Check your round arm measure depending on how long or far up the arm you want it (measuring it from the wrist upwards to the elbows I mean)

Check your palm measure (or width of your palm).

If there is a big difference between the sizes, then I’d suggest you work in the difference by changing the hook size to accommodate the difference.

We start our pattern with a foundation single crochet row, and join it to work in rounds right from the start.

So for our first foundation round, check that it goes around the base of the palm keeping your thumb free.

You will, therefore need as many fsc on that first round to go around this part of your palm.

Right then, let’s get our hooks on.

Start with as many fsc in multiples of 4 as needed to go around your palm. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Remember though that the fsc gives you a lovely stretch – depending on the yarn and tension of your work.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ; ch 1, sk next fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc ; ch 1, sk next fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* all around ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

We will start with our Crocodile scale stitch right here.

Just for your reference, keep a count on how many dc and 2-dc sets you have.

The crocodile stitch is worked in front post stitches around the 2 vertical bars of our 2 double crochet sets.

So look at that first round you’ve made. You have 1 dc, and then 2 dc alternating. In each 2-dc set, we will work one crocodile stitch, and in each alternate dc, we will slip stitch.

For our crocodile stitch, we will work 5 fpdc in each vertical bar of the dc, with a ch 1 in between. This means (5 fpdc in the 1^st dc ; ch 1, 5 fpdc in the next dc).

The ch-1 between the two sets of post stitches is just to open the stitch out a little. This ch-1 is not on the video, so you can decide which works best for you. Either way, it’s the 5 fpdc that makes the stitch.

Round 2 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ;

*Crocodile Scale stitch over the next 2-dc set ; sl-st in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

See how we’ve created our first round of scales, all around the 2-dc set.

For our next round, we will place our dc on the sl-st and the “space between the Crocodile Scale st”.

Round 3 : 2 dc in 1^st st ;

*ch 1, dc in the space between the Crocodile Scale stitch ; ch 1, 2 dc in the sl-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Check that you have the same number of dc and 2-dc sets as you did from Round 1.

Once again, lets work our Crocodile Scale stitches around the 2-dc sets, and the sl-st in the single dcs.

Round 4 : Crocodile Scale st in the 1^st 2-dc set ;

*sl-st in the next dc ; Crocodile Scale stitch over the next 2-dc set* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

See what we’ve done. We’ve moved our scales one stitch such that they’re now overlapping one another. That’s how simple this is.. looks complicated, but isn’t.

Now I’m sure you know what you’ve got to do next, but let’s work the next round together.

Round 5 : dc in 1^st space between the Crocodile Scale stitch ;

*ch 1, 2 dc in the next sl-st ; ch 1, dc in the space between the Crocodile Scale stitch* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Check that you have the same number of dc and 2-dc sets as you did from Round 1.

You now have two sets of Crocodile scales done. So here’s what I suggest. Measure how many inches you get for these two sets and then decide how many inches you need till the top of your fingerless gloves.

Slip on your work, such that the pointed part of the Crocodile stitch faces upwards, and now check how many repeats you will need.

Our pattern repeat will be Rounds 2 – 5, ending with a Round 3 or 5.

Before we start on the pattern for the arm portion, let us run a round of sc all around.

I am going to start numbering all over again for the Arm Portion. Please DO NOT confuse this with the earlier instructions for the Crocodile Scale stitch on the palm.

We have probably stopped at different rounds, so rather than create a confusion here’s a general instruction.

Arm pattern :

Round 1 : Work 1 sc in each st and ch-sp all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Slip this on, and see if you need to change hook size.

In the following round, we’ll make the little opening for your thumb. I am assuming that 6 sts are sufficient for the opening, but when you put this on, adjust it to suit you.

Our pattern repeat for this section is 3.

(So if you’re adding / removing stitches for the thumb opening, ensure that you have the stitch count right eventually)

Round 2 : 3 dc in the 1^st sc ; *sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ; ch 6 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Slip this on, and see if the ch-6 sp is sufficient, else add /subtract as needed.

For our pattern, will be working 3 dc in the space between two sets of 3-dcs. Now usually a “space” means a ch-1 sp. In this case, there is no ch-sp, just that place between the dc’s that we will call a space.

So right here is a 1^st tweak for you. When you slip on your glove, if you find you want a little more ‘wiggle room’, then you just add a ch-1 sp between 2 sets of 3 dcs. Easy enough, right? And this will not change our pattern either.. just make it easier for you to wear.

Check the next tweak too, just below this round, and see which one works for you.. or use both.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st 3-dc set ; 3 dc in the next “space” ; *sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next “space”* ; rep *to* all around till the last ch-6 sp ; 3 dc in that last ch-6 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

More tweaks : So if you feel you need wiggle room, you could add 2 sets of 3 dc, or 6 dc in this last ch-6 sp.

Remember though, that you will continue with the pattern in between two 3-dc sets, so from the following row on, you will divide the 6 dc you’re placing in this sp into two sets of 3 dc.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st 3-dc set ; 3 dc in the next “space” ; *sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next “space”* ; rep *to* all around till the end and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

At this point, you should be at the base of your wrist. IF your arm is a little slender, and you wish to decrease, here are the adjustments.

IF there is no decrease, and you find that Round 4 measurements will work perfectly up the arm, then continue rep of Round 4 till you have the length you need for your glove.

Decrease ideas : So if you need to decrease, then all we need to do for the 1^st decrease row is to reduce the number of stitches all around.

So what I’d suggest is that you work 2 dc in every alternate “space” and 3 dc in every other “space” all around for one round. Once you find that it is comfortable and snug, go back to the pattern repeat of 3 dc in each “space” all around, till you have the glove measurement / length you desire.

On the last round, I’d suggest you work one round of sc or hdc , with say a picot every 3^rd st, all around, just to keep it all neat and tight.

Check for a “how to” do a picot at the top of this blog.

Increase arm length ideas : So as I mentioned before, I'd made the multi colored pair before, and then decided to make a longer pair. I've just added colors in this second pair to make it stand out - so you can do it in all one color or variegated yarn as well.
For the longer arm length, you just continue with the simple arm pattern all the way past the wrist up the arm, till you have the length needed. You need to keep checking that it fits snugly around the arm, as the arm tends to change in circumference as it advances towards the elbows. End with a neat row of picot for a good finish.

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I have a few gloves already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those patterns … here you go