Sweet Nothings Crochet: EM’S SKIRT

EM’S SKIRT

A lovely skirt for a lovely person. This skirt is one that can be worn by all ages alike.

Inspired by this pattern on the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

I referred to this link for information : http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4806516/post258169880/

While I love the way the colors of this self striped yarn have pooled and added another mystery to the skirt, it has detracted from showing off the actual pattern.

So here is the skirt that excited me enough to make one for myself.. well, for someone I love.

Just so we see the beauty of a solid color, non-striped yarn, here's what inspired me

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Materials used : Cotton Cotton yarn (www.yatsal.com.au) ~ 3 balls , with a 3 mm crochet hook

General info : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook for this skirt. You can make it to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.

Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Our skirt has 2 patterns – the simpler pattern is for the first 2/3^rd of your skirt and then the pineapple pattern that will cover the last 1/3^rd of the skirt.

We also have a 2” band at the top of our skirt. So let’s get on with this then.

Round 1 : Start with fdc in multiples of 6 + 5.

Note : There are two ways to start on the waist bits for skirts depending on whom the skirt is intended. If making for a younger child, you could work in rounds, and start with the measurement you would need for the hips, such that on completion, you attach an elastic over the top and the skirt will still slide up over the hips.

OR you could work in rows for the first few rows, till you think you have an opening sufficient to slip over the hips and then join up an work in rounds.

As this is a general write up, I’ll leave that back opening to you and only give instructions for working in rounds.

Round 2 : dc in each dc till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : Rep Row 2 about 2 more times, or till you have a waist band you’re happy with.

Note : Assuming we’re continuing after Round 3, I’m not altering the row numbering.

If you have worked more rounds for your waist band, remember, all you need to do is continue with Round 4 anyway.

Round 4 : sc in the 1^st dc,

*ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc 3-tog in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 5 : sl-st in the 1^st two ch of the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

[sc in the next ch, sc in the next dc 3-tog and sc in the next ch] ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 ch, sk next sc, sk next 2 ch , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, sk 2 ch , dc in the last ch-3 sp. Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : dc in 1^st 3 sc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*dc in the next 3 sc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep from *to* till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 7 : dc in 1^st dc ; *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end ;

ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : dc in 1^st dc ; *dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc,

*ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc 3-tog in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : (sl-st till dc 2-tog) ; sc in the 1^st dc 2-tog ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 ch, sk next sc, sk next 2 ch,

[sc in the next ch, sc in the next dc 3-tog and sc in the next ch]* ;

rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk last 2 ch, sc in the last sc, Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : dc in 1^st two sc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 sc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : dc in 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end ;

ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 13 : dc in 1^st dc ; *dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end.

Join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rep Rounds 4 - 13 ending with an all dc-round (i.e. Round 6 or Round 11)

So now here’s how I calculated how many repeats I wanted – the chart gives a rough outline showing that these repeat rows make up about 2/3^rd of the skirt and the last pineapple is 1/3^rd. So this is one measure.

The other is that the pineapple pattern is 17 rounds.

So if you can calculate the width (inch-wise) of one dc row, and then calculate how many inches this makes up (depending on your yarn, gauge, etc), then you can work out how many rounds you’d need of this repeat as well.

One more small note – the pineapple stitch count is in multiples of 18.

So, just before you reach the final rounds here, do check that your stitch count(s) will match up.

So lets’ get this first part done and we’ll meet again for the final pineapple bit.

Fasten off then and weave in the ends

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I’ve got a few more beautiful skirt patterns already written – so let me add a few links here for your easy reference.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/10/faux-diamond-skirt.html