K’S BABY GIRL DRESS
Today I met with some old friends, and not only
did we have a super meet (and oh my God, loads of super food), but I was also
gifted all of this lovely yarn.. so here’s what I’m making for the (daughter
of) person who gifted this to me.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
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Cheers. Enjoy
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Edited to add : When the pictures above were sent to me, I was also told that the little girl loves it so much, she refused to take it off after the photos were taken.. I am tripping in happiness.. and just had to share that with you too.
Inspired by the photo, here are my
pattern notes .
Just see what a difference adding two colours to this dress made!
Materials used : Indian
Anchor knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook
;
Optional : Stitch marker
Size made : For a 3 year old : Chest : 24” ; Length 22” and I used 100 gms each of two colours
Difficulty level
: Intermediate level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, and work down to the
armholes. We will then work our bottom
part of the dress off this yoke.
Part I : Yoke
- Front
We will work our yoke in two parts. For the
front, we will work in one piece, and for the back, we will work in two pieces,
with a button placket.
Now if you decide not to add any buttons (for
younger children), then you could ensure that the neckline is of the right
depth to allow you to slip it over the head without a need for buttons.
I always say that even for little kids, just
allow that one button opening right at the top – so you just work the first 3 –
4 rows back and forth from armhole to the centre placket, and then work all the
way side to side from armhole to armhole.
I’ve written this pattern down as per the
chart. Now this may not suit you
perfectly, as you may be making a dress for a larger child. So here’s what I
suggest :
1. Keep
a well fitting dress (or perfect measurements) of the child you’re making this
for, handy.
2. Decide
just where you want to start your armhole decreases and the neckline shaping
and work the two-line pattern repeat till that point
3. Use
the instructions for the armhole shaping and neckline decrease / shaping as per
your well-fitted dress.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 10 + 2 for the half
your round chest measure. Turn
In the following row, we’ll do our picot
stitches.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
We will use a 3-ch picot all
through ; which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 1st ch).
For this pattern we will do our picot stitches
between 2 dc as follows :
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc)
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
5 fdc ;
(dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;
*dc in the next 8 dc
;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all the way to the last 5 dc ;
dc in the last 5 dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st
5 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot , dc in the next 8 dc* ;
rep *to*
all the way to the ;
dc till the last dc.
Turn.
From the following row, we will start the
decreases for shaping the armhole.
Row 4 : sl-st in
the 1st 4 dc ;
hdc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*dc
in the next 3 dc ;
(dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the
next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* the last ch-2 sp ;
2 dc in
that last ch-2 sp ;
hdc in the next dc , sk the last 4 dc. Turn.
Row 5 : sl-st in
the 1st hdc and dc ;
hdc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*ch
2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc * ;
rep *to* the last picot ;
ch
2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the last 3 dc ;
hdc in the last st. Turn.
In the following row, we will start and end with
a dc 2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo
Row 6 : sl-st in
the 1st hdc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in
the next dc) ;
dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
2 dc in
that last ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, sk last st
and Turn.
Row 7 : dc 2-tog
over the 1st 2 sts ; dc in the next 5 dc ;
*ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot,
dc in the next 8 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last picot ;
dc in the next 5 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.
The armhole shaping is now done, and we can
continue without any further decrease, in pattern, till we reach the neckline
decrease.
Row 8 : dc in the 1st
6 dc ;
*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
(dc in the dc ; picot
; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ;
dc in the last 6 dc till end. Turn.
Row 9 : dc in the 1st
11 dc ;
*ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last
picot ;
dc in the last 11 dc till end.
Turn.
This is the row just before the neckline
shaping, so just for that centre section of the neckline, we will not do
the usual picot stitch.
So may I suggest that you decide on the shape of
your neckline here though we will only be actually dividing for the neckline in
the following row.
So fold your work in half, mark the centre.
Then decide on the shape of that “U” neckline
and place the two side markers on either side of this first centre marker.
The
two side markers should be the same number of dc away from the centre marker
for an even shape.
Remove the centre marker now, and we will use our two side
markers for the neckline shaping.
Now there may be differences here depending on
where your marker is.
Remember that all you need to do to is follow the pattern,
which you know by heart now.. ensuring you have the picot stitch just where you
have to be and the ch-2 sps also evenly spaced.
Row 10 : dc in the 1st
6 dc ;
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc
in the next ch-2 sp ;
[dc in the next 8 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep
[to] once ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep (to) once ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
In the following row we’ll be dividing for our
neckline.
So here’s where we will be
using those two side markers, and working from one armhole to the first side
marker and back.
We will work all this way up to the shoulder. We will then go
to the second marker and work that side up to the shoulder.
Row 11 : dc in the
next 6 dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the 1st
marker ; hdc on that 3rd last stitch ; sc in the next st and sl-st
in the last st. Turn.
We will now work only on this section till the
shoulder.
In the following row, we will be working our decorative
picot in the same space as we have two rows before, and not in between the 8 dc
sets.
Row 12 : sl-st in
the 1st 3 sts ; hdc in the next dc ;
dc in the next 4 dc ;
(dc ,
picot ,dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 13 : dc in the
next 6 dc ;
ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the end ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 sts (i.e over the 3rd last & 2nd
last stitches) ;
sk the last st. Turn.
We’ve completed our neckline shaping.
Row 15 - 16 :
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve completed one side of the yoke till
shoulder.
Repeat all instructions from the centre neckline
divide to the shoulder for the other side, ensuring you mirror the
instructions.
This completes our Front Yoke.
These are the same instructions for the Back part of the yoke too.
The only difference how deep you want the back of the neck. If you are going to work it the same depth as the front, then you just follow these front instructions, and all you need to figure is if you’d need a button opening around the back.
If you want the back higher, then you work the
pattern through the back too, till you reach the shoulder level.
Yoke finishing :
What I’d suggest now is that we finish our yoke
bit. So I’d suggest you go ahead and attach the two shoulders and join the
little sides as well. In case you have
kept an opening for the back, may I suggest that you pin the two ends so that
they don’t flap when we’re working the skirt portion… or maybe go on ahead and
fix in that button right away, so we’re done with this yoke completely.
Check the top of this blog for joining ideas.
Skirt Instructions :
For the lower or skirt part of the dress, I am
going to work in one continuous round.
Now our pattern repeat for this skirt portion is
6.
So here’s the tricky part. The yoke repeat was 10 + 2, and here we have
6. So first count up what you have for
the top yoke bit, and see how much you need to increase to get it into
multiples of 6.
I say increase (and not decrease) as we
always like to have a frillier skirt portion, right? So let’s go ahead and work our calculations
and get ready for the skirt portion.
Finally a few cheat ideas .. How do you get a frillier dress if you
don’t want to add stitches ? Well, the simplest way would be to reduce
the gap between two pattern stitches (the first row of shell stitches we’re
creating). So the ‘gap’ between two
stitches is 3, reduce that and you get more frills.
Note though that you would need to calculate the stitch count repeat all around for any cheat or tweak.. but this is just a suggestion.. now go ahead and cheat n tweak
Note though that you would need to calculate the stitch count repeat all around for any cheat or tweak.. but this is just a suggestion.. now go ahead and cheat n tweak
Attach your yarn (I’d suggest we attach it at
the back centre point). We will now be working on the other side of that
first fdc row
Round 1 : dc in the 1st
fdc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next st ; [ch 1, dc in the same st] ; rep [to] once ; ch
1, dc in the next st) ; *sk next 3 sts ; dc in the next st ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You have finished with the hardest part of the
skirt bit. Everything else is easy-peasy.. so lets get going.
Round 2 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc
in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to*
all around ; and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
So let’s just take a quick look and understand
what we’re going to do now.
We have 5 dc in that first round (per set) and we have just added three ch-3 sps in each set. So this total little creation looks like one shell, right?
We have 5 dc in that first round (per set) and we have just added three ch-3 sps in each set. So this total little creation looks like one shell, right?
Now each new shell set (which is made up by two
rounds of work) will be worked out of the centre ch-3 sp only. Simple enough, right?
Round 3 : sl-st past
the 1st ch-3 sp and into the 2nd ch-3 sp , dc in the same
ch-3 sp; (ch 1, dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
*sk next two ch-3
sps ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc
in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to*
all around ; and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Rep Rounds 3 and 4 till you have a dress of the length needed (as measured from the shoulders). Let’s end with a Round 3 and work a round of picots as the last round.
We will work our picot st in each of the ch-1 sps.
Last Round :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc + picot in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 1 , sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc + picot in the
next sc* ;
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Great.. we’re almost done.
Let’s just do one
final finishing around the neckline and the armhole, to tidy this all up, shall
we?
Armhole and neckline edging :
Work is always neater when finished – so to start this, let’s run a round of sc all around the armholes and neckline
edges.
Our border pattern has a repeat
of 6, so work a round of sc all around the edges in multiples of 6.
Start with a
round of sc all around the neckline or armhole edges in multiples of 6.
Round 1 : sc in the
1st sc ; sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, sc in
the next sc ;
sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Work this edging around the neckline as well as both armholes.
Work this edging around the neckline as well as both armholes.
Now along with this free gifted yarn, I was also
gifted some lovely pink beads.. and as I had time, I decided to add some beady
bling to it.
In the yoke, where we have those lovely ch-sps
just above the picot, I’ve added my beads.
So I just strung in three beads (mine are pretty small beads and that’s
who many fit neatly across without stretching or pulling that ch-sp) and sewed
them in individually.
Yes, a little more
work than if we’d worked them in earlier, but at that time, I forgot about these beads.. and anyway,
these beads would probably not thread through my crochet hook.. so hmmm.
All in all, I’m fantastically thrilled with the
end result. Hope you have lots of fun creating your little dress too.
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet
another beautiful dress made for your young lady.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/peachilicious-divine-dress.html
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