McKenzie's Dress
If you’re following my blogs, you’ll know that
recently I just made a line of little girls’ dresses. It seems almost
coincidental or providence that suddenly so many of the dresses on my “to-do”
wish list get done.. yaay
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on
and discover this new pattern together.
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Cheers. Enjoy
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While I so appreciate all the feedback I receive
on my write up and blogs, I would really appreciate if you could go
through all my copious notes before you ask questions – as many times, the
questions have already been answered here.
Thanks so much for understanding.
Inspired by the photo , here are my
pattern notes
Materials used : Today I’ve
used a combination of yarns. I have used 100 gms of of blue Red Rose knitting cotton
and about 2 skeins (~ 100 gms) of this Ecru Traditional 5 Plus knitting cotton with
a 3 mm crochet hook
Optional : Stitch
marker
For Indians : The Traditional
5 plus is a little thicker than our Anchor knitting cotton.
I’d suggest using Anchor knitting cotton for
this project, if using cotton, else a good 3 or 4 ply acrylic will work too..
with a 3 or 3.5 mm crochet hook, depending on looseness / tension
Size made :
Chest : 24” ; Length 22” and I used about 100 gms each in two colours
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, which is worked like a
square.
Two parts of this square will be
the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of
the yoke.
As usual, here are your choices. You need to
decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you
need to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it
for the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the
yoke.
If however, you want only a single button around
the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and
then work in rounds.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start
on our yoke.
That said, here’s something I discovered with
these charts – they may not work for you, as your yarn may be too thick or too
thin. Now I used this chart for this
recent dress I made, but at that time I was using a 4-ply yarn for the yoke.
This time around, my yarn is a little thinner, and though I am making a dress
for the same sized child, those calculations do not work. How do we solve it?
My age old idea – keep a well-fitting dress of the person for whom this is
intended. This always works.
I am giving you a stitch count repeat – so
use the stitch count repeat, keep the chart handy (as the numbers there are
a good reference, and they may work for you) and then double check all of this
against the well-fitting garment, and you’re good to go.
Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off this yoke. As usual, two sides of this yoke will form the front and back of the dress and the other two sides will form the armhole.
Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest
you’re working with, please use the link for chest sizes (square yoke) given
above as a guideline.
Part I :Yoke
Our yoke stitch count is in multiples of 4
Start: with fsc in multiples of 4, as per the chart
given above for square yokes. Please
place markers to mark the four corners of your yoke, and one marker to mark the
centre back.
We’re going to work in rows from the centre back
so that there is an opening for the button placket ; and we’re going to start
at this centre back portion.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st3
fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next 3 fsc) ;
rep (to) till the 1st corner marker ;
*[ch 3, dc in the same corner marked fsc
; dc in the next 2 fsc] ;
rep (to) till the next corner marker* ;
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
We do not need the markers any more, as the ch-3
sps will now mark our four corners, and the back end is also neatly identified.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till the 1st corner ch-3 sp
;
[ch 3, 3 dc in the corner ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc
in the same corner ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) till the next corner ch-3 sp ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-1 sp ;
3 dc
in that last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st
dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till the 1st corner ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, 3 dc in the corner ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc
in the same corner ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) till the next corner ch-3 sp ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc
in that last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till your yoke is at the armhole
level or till your yoke is the right shoulder width.
For some of you, the shoulder width and armhole
opening will coincide, but if you’re making it for an older child, ensure that
you get the shoulder width or armhole level right and then we will work only on
two parts of our yoke – the front and the back portion. Then the other two
portions of the yoke, will be sides, and will be the armholes, from where we
will make the sleeves.
So for older children, please read instructions
below the Quick Note.
Quick note :
Instructions given are for working from side to side around the yoke, such that
you have an opening around the back, and can work in a button placket.
Now, if you decide that you do not want an
opening that goes all the way down to the back, you can join with a [ch 1, and
sl-st] at any time (at that last st, of course) and work in rounds.
Your instructions though will read a little
differently, but then you’ve figured that out as well.
For those of us who are making dresses for older
girls, here’s how we carry on.
You have now reached the width needed for the
shoulder AND the chest / across front needed for your garment.
Fasten off and re-attach your yarn for the front
part of the yoke at the ch-3 sp for the front yoke. We will now work back and forth in pattern
just for this front part of the yoke.
Once we’re done with this front, we will
re-attach your yarn at the ch-3 sp for the back part of the yoke and continue
in pattern for the back of the dress.
I will continue numbering with Row 4 (though
this is not technically your 4th row)
Now in the following row/round, we will attach
the front and back yokes at the armhole.
So put your yoke down flat, and mark the corner ch-3 sps that mark the
two armhole bases.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2
dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till the 1st corner ch-3 sp ;
[ch 1, 3 dc in the next marker corner ch-3 sp] ,
{and this will join the front and back creating
our first armhole} ;
*rep (to) till the next corner ch-3 sp ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* till end,
and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Row 5 :dc in the 1st
dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till the 1st corner ch-3 sp
;
[ch 3, 3 dc in the corner ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc
in the same corner ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) till the next corner ch-3 sp ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in that last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last
dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your yoke is at the
waist level.
Part 2 :Skirt
Our skirt pattern stitch count is in multiples of 8, so check that the
last row of your yoke has the stitch count, else add the required stitches with
a sc round first.
Start : with dc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in
the next ch-1 sp ;
*dc in the next 3 dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 1 : Belt row : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ,
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ;
* ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Note : This row
has cinched or tightened the waist band a bit. So stop and check that this
measure is ok for your little girl else please go back and make all
those ch-1 sps into ch-2 sps, thus not decreasing around this round.
Please note however,
that instructions for the next round will read ch-1 sps, so if you
have changed, remember that change.
From the following row on, we will use a “V”-st
which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Round 2 : sl-st
in the 1st 2 dc ; “V”-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V’-st in the next ch-1 sp*
;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ; “V”-st in the 1st“V”-st
;
*ch 2, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
And I’m back again with choices, decisions and
suggestions.
So we will basically be repeating the pattern of Round 3 all the way down till we are a few inches away from the final length required and then we will do this lovely pineapple at the end of the “V”-sts.
So we will basically be repeating the pattern of Round 3 all the way down till we are a few inches away from the final length required and then we will do this lovely pineapple at the end of the “V”-sts.
Each pineapple pattern is about 10 rows, so you need to work on the following
1. Calculate
how many inches you are adding per “V’-st
2. Calculate
how many inches you are adding per 10 rows of work
3. Decide
how many pineapples patterns you want – per chart, there are two pineapples,
and then a border design
4. Decide
the length of your skirt
Now what do we do with all these numbers ?
You know the length of final finished product /
dress you want, and you know how much you have already worked thus far, plus
now you know how much you are adding per 10 rows of work per pineapple and then
there’s one row of border – so working back, you can now calculate how many
rows of simple Round 3 you need to work to get the final end result of dress
length.
Great.. that was not that hard, was it?
So continue Rep Round 3 till you have the skirt
part of your dress of the length needed.
For the final rows of pineapple, just for
convenience, I am going to continue numbering with Round 4.
Remember though that this is not technically Round 4.
Remember though that this is not technically Round 4.
Round 4 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ;
“V’-st in the same “V”-st ;
*ch 3, (2 dc in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, 2 dc in
the same “V”-st) ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep (to) and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ;
“V’-st in the same
“V”-st ;
*(ch 3, 8 dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep (to)
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 6 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ;
“V’-st in the same
“V”-st ;
*[ch 3, dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times] ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ;
“V’-st in the same
“V”-st ;
*[ch 3, sk next dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 5
times] ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp of the 1st
“V”-st ;
“V’-st in the same
“V”-st ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp
;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times] ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following row, we will ‘split’ our “V”-st
in preparation to make the next pineapple. Remember this step – because if you
decide to add the third pineapple, here’s where you need to add that extra set of dcs.
Round 9 : Increase round :
sl-st in the 1st
ch-1 sp of the 1st “V”-st
;
“V’-st in the same “V”-st ;
ch 1, 2 dc in
the same “V”-st ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp
;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3
times] ;
{ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 1, 2 dc in
the same “V”-st }* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 10 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V’-st
in the same ch-1 sp ;
{ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp} ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp
;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2
times] ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep {to} once*
;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 11 : sl-st in the 1st “V”-st ; “V’-st
in the same “V”-st ;
{ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3
sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once] ;
rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 12 : sl-st in the 1st “V”-st ; “V’-st
in the same “V”-st;
{ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, “V”-st
in the next “V”-st } ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp
;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp)] ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep {to} once*
;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
See that extra “V”-st that we’ve just added in
the ch-3 sp? We’re going to start our next pineapple from that “V”-st. Neat, huh?
Round 13 : sl-st in the 1st “V”-st ; “V’-st
in the same “V”-st;
{(ch 3, 2 dc in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, 2 dc in
the same “V”-st) ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ;
*[ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp]
;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep {to} once*
;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 14 : sl-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 2 dc in
the same “V”-st ;
{ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, 8 dc in the next ch-3 sp}
;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next “V”-st] ;
(ch 1, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc,
2 dc in the
next “V”-st) ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 15 : sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp, “V”-st in
the same ch-1 sp ;
*[ch 3, dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc
in the next dc) ; rep (to) 6 times] ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 16 - 22 : Rep Rounds 7 - 13
Round 23 : sl-st in the 1st “V”-st ; “V”-st in
the same “V”-st ;
{ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, 8 dc in the next ch-3 sp}
;
*[ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st] ;
(ch 3, “V”-st
in the next “V”-st) ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 24 : sl-st in the “V”-st, “V”-st in the same
“V”-st ;
*[ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in
the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times] ;
ch 3, “V’-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a rep [to]
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
The next round is our final round.
For my dress,
I opted to use a tiny little ch-3 picot instead of the dc 3-tog. But as the chart
shows a dc 3-tog here’s what you could do too.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 25 : sl-st in the “V”-st, 2 dc in the same “V”-st
;
*ch 1, “V”-st, 2 dc in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to]
5 times ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next “V’-st* ;
rep *to* all around,
ending with 2 dc in the
last “V”-st.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Optional So
as I’ve chosen the picot stitch for my border / last round, all I did was add
in the picot in those ch-1 sps instead of the dc 3-tog and my lil dress just
rocked.
So have fun tweaking and creating.
and I love how the little girl is totally enjoying her dress, and I am so overjoyed with the superb quality of these photographs.
and I love that these photographs in B&W too, don't you?
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
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