Sweet Nothings Crochet: CRISS-CROSS PATTERNED INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES

CRISS-CROSS PATTERNED INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES

This pattern for a cowl with sleeves is fast becoming a favourite among my clients. However, as you know, I do not like repeating patterns, and always look for a different pattern for the cowl part of this second set. Thanks for joining me in my creative journey.

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As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837681737/

Also inspired by http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/antonia-wrap-around-shrug, here is my tweak and difference from this similar pattern.

Using this pattern, I've also made a beanie at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-beanie.html. and another matching cowl https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/criss-cross-cowl-1.html

Materials used : Today I’ve our about 200 gms lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium acrylic yarn with a 4.5 mm crochet hook

Materials used : Made this for a Chest Size 34” / Arm length 24”

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

fsc : Foundation single crochet dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hdc :Half Double crochet sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only

fpdc : Front Post Double crochet

Abbreviations :

sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook

lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet

sl-st : Slip Stitch

sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only

fsc : Foundation single crochet

hdc : Half Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We start with a row of fsc and then work our way side to side to make a large rectangle. Now here’s where your creativity comes in. There are several ways you can decide to wrap this around your body – so the two sides of your wrap will be the length of your arms from shoulder(s) to wrist(s), and the centre part is what will go around your chest.

I’ve offered several choices and ideas through this instruction sheet, so please go through it all before you start on your work. Thanks.

Here is a you-tube of the four different ways you can wear it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKNxf3RuaBQ

So calculations : One and a half times your round chest plus two arm lengths. This is the length of the rectangle we’ll make.

Width : We will work up and down the fsc we’re making which is the width of our chest piece, but if you make this part too wide, then you’re actually increasing the round arm as well – so remember this when you’re working your calculations.

In my first two patterns, I just worked a a different set of patterns for the sleeves and the chest portion. Here I’ll be using the crossed pattern just for the chest and simple hdc all through the sleeves with a tighter fpdc for the ends of the sleeves.

In my earlier patterns I’ve used a different pattern for the chest section as well as a different coloured yarn.

This time, I’ve used the same yarn throughout, but a different pattern for the centre chest section.

Now here are our tweaks :

1. I’m planning on using the crossed stitch pattern just for the center of the project and using a plainer stitch for the two arms, so I will be working three pieces in this project – One chest portion and two sleeve portions

2. I will work the three pieces separately and then join them together.

3. I am not going to write pattern separately for the chest and the sleeves. I am writing the pattern down, and you could make the whole project in the same pattern.

4. If you decide to make the sleeves separately (as I have), you will follow instructions through to the end and see what I have done.

5. Finally, I’m going to add a tightening set of rows around the end of our ‘sleeve’ ends – so you could actually work whatever width you want, as the sleeves are going to fit eventually.

So, enough talking.. hooks in hand.. and let’s go.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 + 3

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 12 + 3. Turn.

Row 1 : sc in the 1^stfsc ;

*ch 1, sk next fsc , sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

We start with the first diagonal of our pattern.

This first row is a little bit tricky – but once we’ve got this figured, the rest is easy peasy.

We will be working our diagonal in our first row which is two rows below.

So we will be skipping all stitches in Row 2, and be working on the scs of Row 1.

On Row 1, we’ll be skipping a total of 4 sts, which will be two ch-1 sps and 2 sc.

Finally, we’re working the sl-st in the ch-sp, so just grab the top of that st and slip into it. Got it?

Row 3 : Front of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,

sl-st in the next ch-1 sp two rows down) ;

[ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 sc ,

sl-st in the next sc two rows up i.e Row 3] ;

ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Now for the following row, let’s first understand why we’re doing what we are.

So in Row 3, we’ve worked one set of [sc, ch 1, sc] on that row, but then the chains go into the row below, so basically we’ve got no stitches except the [to], right?

So in the following row, we’ve basically got to add these ‘lost’ stitches in as well, so we will work a combination of {ch 1, sc in the next sc} and then we have (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the middle.

The other thing that we need to remember is that in the following row, we’ll be working on the wrong side – so the chains we made are on the other side.

When we work our (dc ; ch 1, dc), ensure that you work under the ch-5, so that they are flapping freely. They must.. as they’re the main part of this pattern.

Got it.. Right then, enough talking.. let’s work this..

Row 4 : Back of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[ch 1, sc in the next sc] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next sc from Row 2) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Once again, we’re working on our diagonal chain, so yet again we’ll work it in the row below, so the ch-sp in Row 3.

The advantage is that you don't actually have to look for the ch-sp or sc, as you've already got that figured out in Row 3

Row 5 : Front of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, sc in the next sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,

sl-st in the next ch-1 sp two rows down i.e. Row 3) ;

[ch 5, sk next 2 ch-1 sps and 2 dc ,

sl-st in the next sc two rows up i.e. Row 5] ;

ch 1, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 6 : Back of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[ch 1, sc in the next sc] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

And just like that we’re done with this lovely crossed pattern.

Repeat Rows 5 & 6 till your project is 1.5 times the round chest measure , ending with Row 5.

OR As I said before, if you decide to work this pattern through the whole project, then you will work this crossed pattern for 2 sleeve lengths plus 1.5 times round chest measure ending with Row 5.

Next Row : Back of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[ch 1, sc in the next sc] ;

(ch 1, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

In our final row we will work in each st and ch-sp till the end. Ensure that you have the same number of stitches here that you started with.

Last Row : Front of work :

sc in the 1^st sc ;

*sc in the next ch-sp ; sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Back of work

Front of work

If you are working this pattern all through in crossed pattern, then once done, you will fold your completed project in half, and join the two sides from each end till the length needed for the sleeve.

The sleeves are the ends of this project and the centre of this project is the part that wraps around the chest.

Fasten off and weave in all ends and you’re done with your lovely crossed stitch cowl with sleeves.

IF however, you’re making plain sleeves as I am, then carry on with the instructions here.

1. As we’re working a chest portion with the crossed stitch pattern only, then you will work 1.5 times round chest measure in repeats of Rows 5 & 6 , ending with Row 5.

2. If changing yarn colours, then fasten off Colour 1, and attach whatever colour you intend for your sleeve here.

3. We’ve ended with Row 5, so work sc in the sc and ch-sps to add up to the same number of stitches as you started with. So say you started with 41 sts, at this end, you will have your sc and ch-1 sps, so just ensure that you work a total of 41 sts in these ch-sps and sc.

Once you have your sc at this end, and your fsc at the other end, you are ready to start your sleeves.

So for this end, you have your second coloured yarn for the sleeves.

Once you’re done with this section, you will re-attach your sleeve yarn for the other side at one end of your start fsc row and repeat these sleeve instructions.

SLEEVES :

For this portion there are several options offered , so major decision time.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc and each sc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Optional : Place a marker in the sl-st if you decide to reduce and scale the shape down a bit, as I have.

From here on I worked an sc in each sc all around, but did not join at the end of each row, so that we work in continuous rounds without the little join at the end.

Now it does not really matter if you want to join with a sl-st at the end of each round – I just preferred not to.

If you do decide to work in rounds without joining, please place a marker in that 1^st sc as we will need that 1^st sc a little later in our pattern.

Note for decrease if working in a round without joining :

At the end of each round one st before the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts.

This works if you are not joining and are working in continuous rounds.

Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Note for decrease if not working in a round and joining with sl-st at each round :

At the end of each round two stsbefore the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts.

Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Yet again, just continue till you have the shape just right for the arm you are working this project for.

Finally, I worked this repeat till I had a length about 2 - 3” shorter than needed from the shoulder to wrist. I have decided to work the last few inches in post stitches in such a way that if needed the recipient could pull it over the palms and have finger-less gloves (of sorts).

So if you feel like doing this then, work till you are about 2 - 3” short of the length needed from shoulder to wrist.

Next Round : sc in the 1^st sc and each sc all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

From the following round on we will work in post stitches.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Next Round : fpdc in the 1^st sc ; dc in the next sc ;

(fpdc in the next sc ; dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Next Round : fpdc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

(fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Rep the above round for the final few inches, till your sleeves are of the length you need (i.e either till wrist or till the end of your thumb - for the fingerless gloves).

Fasten off and weave in ends. We’ve completed one side of our sleeves.

Re-attach your yarn on the other side of the shoulder bit (i.e in my case the end of the grey rectangle) for the second sleeve.

Work all the rounds of pattern for the second sleeve as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

I’m thrilled at what we’ve made here today. This is a really oft-repeated pattern, but with a simple twist and tweak, we’ve created something different.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

In the Antonia wrap around shrug pattern, the designer has added a few images, which were not clear (well, not on my pc), so I thought I’d add a few myself .. just in case you need guidance on how to drape this rectangle (as I did). I love the explanation that the Antonia wrap shrug has for the images, which is how I figured (or so I hope) how to drape this thing around oneself.

If you have other ideas on how we can use this, do let me know.. and we’ll add to this treasure.. this absolutely lovely wrap around cowl shrug pattern.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/03/nailed-it-scarf.html