Sweet Nothings Crochet: A REALLY SIMPLE PAIR OF SOCKS

A REALLY SIMPLE PAIR OF SOCKS

( #Blogaday 08/365 )

This is a really quick project and can make a lovely gift for anytime of the year, but you can also start on your next year’s Xmas gifts right now

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In this blog, I have used several free pattern ideas to come up with this pair of socks. So come along and check out which one works for you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Easy to Intermediate.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.

View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Standard chart for foot size : https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279841611237/

& https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279841611235/

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

You know me and my laziness.. and my need to find something easier to do.

So thanks for joining me on this journey with this easy pair of socks too.

Two patterns caught my fancy, but neither of them really worked with the yarn I was using, so I kind-of smushed these two patterns up and made my project as I went along

First I found the free pattern from Poochie baby at http://www.poochie-baby.com/womens-crochet-ballet-slippers-free-pattern/

As I was working on the Poochie baby pattern, I chanced on this one https://thegreendragonfly.wordpress.com/2013/06/28/the-easiest-crochet-slippers/

which I thought would suit my yarn better, thanks to the use of sc, which I preferred.

Sadly though, this is a just an idea of what to do, (which is great.. as it is what I was going to do anyway.. ) ; but as it didn’t have specifics, I thought I’d just jot my notes down as I went along.

This write up, then is going to be a combination of these two patterns and then some idea(s) from my head.

Start Round 1 : with a magic chain and 6 sc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From the following round on, I have opted to work in continuous rounds. I suggest you place a marker in the last st of your start round, and then move the marker every round.

You could also join with a sl-st at the end of each row, and the ensure that that joint line falls right at the back along the heel, if think this is easier.

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. (12 sc)

Move marker.

Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. (24 sc)

Move marker.

Round 4 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. (24 sc)

Move marker.

Round 5 : sc in the 1^st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;

*sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* 5 times. (30 sc)

Move marker.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. (30 sc)

Move marker.

Gauge check : At this point, my little circle diameter is about 3”. I am looking for an around-the-toe diameter of 3.5”, so I am going to stop increases right now. My yarn stretch and looseness of stitching will accommodate the needed 0.5”.

If you need a further increase, add 6 sts in the next round so your next round will read as follows. I am assuming that there are no further increase(s), so I am going to keep our round count going, and adding an “A” only for one last additional increase.

Round 6A : sc in the 1^st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;

*sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* 5 times. (36 sc)

Move marker.

As we are not making any further increases, we don’t really need to move the marker any further. The marker is just to show you the start/end point.

Finally my Round counts.. I am going to write it for the foot size I am making it for. I am making it for a foot length of 9.5” (So rather than going with the regular sizes, I’ve asked my friend to give me a pencil drawing, marking of her foot with measurements, and as you can see, we got a terrific fit.)

Round 7 – 34 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. (30 sc)

Work this till you have it at the arch of your foot , closest to the end of your ankle.

Before we move further a few thoughts and a visual image of what we’re going to do.

Fold the piece you have worked so far to gauge how many inches from toe as well as how many inches across. We have established that this will cover across your toes, so we are not going to increase any further but continue working in rounds without any increase till you reach the top of your foot near your ankle ; or more than halfway up the curve / arch of your lower foot.

At that point, we will divide for the back part of the foot, and work back and forth in rows.

We will work back and forth rows, till your work reaches the back of your heel.

Yes, I hear your question.. how do you gauge how far you need to work if you are making this as a gift. Well, right at the top of this blog is a foot measure. So my suggestion is to check that measure board OFF your foot and see if the sizes there match your foot and work. If they do (which I am sure they will), then all you need to calculate and estimate is the increase / decrease for the person you are making this for. Easy enough, right? Let’s hook on then.

Now that we’re at the end of the foot arch, we will work in Rows. Let’s start renumbering for convenience.

Move your marker up to the row to mark where we’re going to start Row 1 for the heel.

Row 1 - 14 : sc in the 1^st sc and in the next 20 sts (21 sc)

Work for the heel, side to side, for as many inches as you want to get the heel.

So how do you measure this bit? Place your work flat on the surface and measure all the way from the toe till the end of the rows you’ve just completed and see if you get the full length of foot. I need 9.5”, so I need 9.5” from heel to end of Row 14. Once done, fasten off leaving a long tail to attach back of foot.

Tweak Ideas : I have worked a change of yarn colour along the last 14 rows. So I worked every alternate row in a different colour. Use one of the ideas on how to work with two colours at the top of the blog. This gives the shoe a really complicated look, but as you know, it’s not that much hard work!

Joining : Use one of the joining methods at the top of this blog to join the two ends of the heel. So to join, fold the row that we’ve just worked on in half, and then attach the two sides together. This forms the back of the heel. Fasten off.

If using two colours, then you will fasten off any one colour (i.e the colour that you have used to join your two sides) and we will continue working with the other yarn around the round ankle portion.

If using only one yarn, re-attach your yarn at the back heel join, and we will work all around the round ankle portion now.

Final finishing :

For the around ankle portion, I’ve used the idea from here

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/infinitely-happy-feet-slippers

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st st and in each st evenly all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

It does not matter how many sc you have. Ensure only that it is a comfortable fit and you are not scrunching your stitches together.

As a general rule, place one sc in each vertical sc bar (for the sides of your work) and 1 sc in each sc all around.

From the following row on, we will work in post stitches. You can work either the Front post double crochet (fpdc) or the Front post half double crochet (fphdc). Choose your stitch and work accordingly.

Round 2 - 5 : fphdc in the 1^st st and in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Check the top of this blog for a “how – to” on post stitches.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all these instructions for the 2^nd matching pair, as well as all other pairs that you are going to work on henceforth!

Now tell me, this IS a superbly easy pattern, isn’t it? AND it gives such a cool fit too.

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You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual footwear patterns.