Sweet Nothings Crochet: EXQUISITE SHELLED DRESS FOR GIRLS

EXQUISITE SHELLED DRESS FOR GIRLS

( #Blogaday 09/365 )

This is a dress that my friend saw on her Facebook page and said that I just had to make it for her granddaughter. It is a really simple shelled dress, and in its simplicity lies the exquisiteness of this pattern.

The whole dress has shells, all the way from the top to the bottom – how lovely is that?

As always, this pattern can be made to fit any sized child. All you need to do is ensure you have the stitch count, and work it to fit the size that you are working with/for.

Please remember that as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my wordsy explanations. After all, I am taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 1 skein of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : For a 6 - 9 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.

The stitches used in this pattern are simple and the pattern is repetitive. However, there is calculation involved, and there are decisions and judgments that you will need to take/make.

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : t https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

Now there is a link for a set of sizing / measurement charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference. I always suggest that if you’re making this specifically for someone you know, try and get a well-fitted dress / outfit of that child.

We start our dress from the chest and work two halves of your yoke from chest to shoulders. We will then come back to this first foundation round and re-attach yarn for the lower skirt part of the dress.

As I’ve mentioned at the start, this pattern can be made to fit any sized child.

Just get your stitch count right.

Part 1 : Yoke (Make 2)

We will make two yokes, and then join it at the shoulders and sides.

May I suggest that if you are working this pattern for a younger child, you keep the yoke completely open along the back, keeping a fuller longer button placket, for the ease of getting it onto & over the child. For older children, you can opt for a shorter placket.

And right off the bat, here is a tweak.

Using this same pattern, you can have this dress starting at the waist, and work the skirt pattern off the waist. You will get a completely different finish and effect with this twist / tweak. Remember though that you will need to work with measurement for Round Waist and not Round Chest.. but you knew that already!

Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 10 + 1 for the Half Round Chest measure of the child you are making this for. Turn

Note : What is round chest?

It is (a) either the part that you are going to work the yoke up to ;

or (b) the largest portion of chest under armhole.

Remember, if you are working this pattern to the waist, you must check both chest and waist measurements and work to half of the larger measure. This means that if round chest is more than round waist, even if you are starting at round waist, you will use half round chest measurement!

Note also that the Shell stitch decreases your start chain length, so stop now and check that the Round Chest measure is still correct.

Check again after the next row as well, just to reduce ripping your work out.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;

ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc ;

ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

We start with a Shell Stitch (or Shell St) which is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the same ch-2 sp)

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc]* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Now here’s where this pattern requires calculation and gets a little bit complicated. As per chart, you will have just this following row, before you divide for armhole. So here’s what you need to do

a) See how many inches (work your gauge) from the start row till end of Row 2. Calculate how many more inches you will add after you have worked Row 3

b) See if you are OK with this height / length for the yoke, if YES, then continue on with the pattern as written, if NO, read ( c )

c) If you think that you want a longer yoke or are starting this pattern at the waist, so obviously need more pattern rows to get to the armhole, then you will just follow the pattern all the way till the armhole and then work the decreases only when you get to the armhole.

So work your calculations and carry on with the pattern.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Decide now where you need your armholes. Rep Row 4 till you reach the armhole level and then we will work in a small decrease to shape the armhole.

For our armhole decrease, we will just reduce one Shell st at each end. Now let’s look at the 3 dc that we have worked just after the 1^st dc and just before the last Shell st. This is the 3-dc set that will mark the two ends of our armhole. We will use that centre dc of this 3-dc set to mark the two ends. So go ahead and place a marker in that centre dc.

Armhole Decrease Row : sl-st past the 1^st Shell st and into the marked dc ; dc in that marked dc ;

*sk the next ch-1 sp and dc, dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the last marked dc ; ending with a dc in that last marked dc. Turn.

With this one decrease, we’ve got a neat shape to our armhole.

Continue Rep Row 4 till you reach the neck level.

Neckline Decrease Idea : For the neckline, we’re going to work a decrease exactly as we did for the armhole. So first decide how wide and low you want the neckline, and then find the two 3-dc sets on either side of the Shell St. Place a marker in the centre dc of the 3-dc set and work from the armhole to this marked dc and back for one side of the front, till you reach the shoulders. Fasten off and then re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marked dc to work the other side of the front yoke till the shoulders.

Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.

You have now completed the front of your yoke.

For the back, you will work the same pattern but remember that you will be splitting the back for a button placket.

Now here’s what I usually do for the back. Depending on how many Shell st repeats you have for the front, you will know just where your centre back is going to come in.

If you are lucky and you have an uneven number of Shell sts, then you will just choose the centre dc of the 3-dc set to be the break-point for the button placket.

If you have an even number of Shell sts, then you will need to split one Shell St.

This means that you will work half the Shell st (i.e 3 dc) and then work a dc in the last dc. This applies for both ends of the button placket.

Right ho, then. Let’s get cracking and get this yoke done. We’ll meet back here soon to work on the skirt of this lovely shelled dress.

Part 2 : Skirt of dress

For the skirt portion, we will work in rounds. So what I’ve done is joined the button placket of the yoke and then work the skirt portion continuously.

The stitch count for the skirt portion is in multiples of 10.

So before you go off, here’s an idea.

The yoke has a similar stitch count, so you will be actually working in the same stitches as you have for the yoke.

However, that will also mean that the dress is “A”-lined.

I was not happy with that, so I added a few stitches before I started Round 1 and the pattern.

So what you too can do, is work one full round adding sc all around but ensure that at the end of your round, you have the stitch count.

OK, so turn your work in such a way that the yoke is facing you , and you are now working your first round of the skirt on the other side of the first foundation row.

Re-attach your yarn and I’d suggest that you attach it at the centre back so that the joint line can be ‘hidden’ under the satin ribbon that you can thread through the waist / chest portion of the dress.

Round 1 : 3 dc in the 1^st fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next fsc ;

ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;

ch 2, 3 dc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Once again, we’ll use the same Shell Stitch (or Shell St) which is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the same ch-2 sp)

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp ; Shell St in the same ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc] ;

ch 1, Shell st in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of the 1^st Shell st ;

Shell St in the same ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next sc] ;

ch 1, Shell st in the next Shell st* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

So off you go, and rep Round 3 till the skirt portion of your dress is the length needed and return back here for the final finishing.

You could finish off when you have the length needed, or work the optional last round.

Optional Last Round : sc in the 1^st st and in each st and ch-sp all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Part 3 : Neckline Finishing

I have decided to work one round of sc in each st and ch-sp all around the neckline, just to give it a good, neat finish.

Part 4 : Armhole Finishing

The designer has worked one round of sc in each st and ch-sp all around the armhole, and that’s one idea.

But what I’ve thought of doing is work a round of sc , and keeping it in multiples of 10. I’ve then worked Round 1 (of skirt). For the next round, I’ve decided to work one sc in each st and ch-sp all around to finish.

You could also work all 3 rounds of the skirt portion and then do the Optional last finishing round to get a slightly longer sleeve.

Go ahead, create.. be different!

Part 5 : Placket Finishing

The last thing that we need to work on is the back placket. I’ve worked one row of hdc along the right placket (where you have the holes that will allow the button to go through). For this side, you will work a few hdc (I worked 5 hdc between two holes) ; and then work 1 ch, sk the next st and work hdc in the next 5 hdc. This will give you holes that are neatly spaced apart.

Please note that before you go off to get this side done, you need to figure out which buttons you’re using, and then ensure that the holes that you are placing will allow the buttons through, and that the distance between two buttons is correct for the size of the buttons.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Part 6 : Embellishments and Pizzazz

The last thing that we need to work on is a tiny little flower for the top of the dress, which is of course optional. I’ve used this free rose crochet pattern that I’ve used before.

Check this free Easy Rose Crochet Pattern from Skip To My Lou at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/10/21-headbands-for-charity.html.

You may also decide to add a nice satin ribbon. You can weave in the ribbon in the ch-sps of the last round of the yoke.

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