MINNIE MOUSE CASE
I started on my bag binge with a lovely Hello Kitty, then a watermelon and a taco beckoned, and now we’re off with the (drum roll please) awfully fantastic Minnie Mouse !
I did predict this line of bags is going to be long.. so come along and enjoy this ride.
So for this bag too, I thought we’d do a 3D version – well, that just means that we’re going to make the elements of this bag separately and then attach them all on… so we make the base of the bag (face) and then attach on the really huge eyes and mouth, and then just for some fun, I will throw in a cookie.. well, our monster does have a really large mouth, right Sound fun? Come on then, let’s get to it.
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General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : 9.75” diameter.
Size is only as an indicator / estimate for yarn usage
Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”
Gauge does not matter
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced
While the stitches used are easy enough, this is a bit of a long(ish) project and needs patience. One will also need sewing skills to attach all the pieces.
Stitches used :
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For your convenience there are a few video links for regular stitches used, at the top of this blog. I have then added video links for stitches through the blog as we use them as well.
We start making Minnie Mouse’s face with black coloured yarn. Now instead of making a round face, I’m going to do a semicircle and then just pop in the ears and a huge bow on top.
We will then do the whites of the eyes separately , then the little blacks of the eyes ; make two little ears and one red bow. Finally we’ll add in Minnie’s oh so beautiful and long eyelashes with an embroidery needle to finish it all up.
There are six parts (with a few sub-parts) to this gorgeous Minnie Mouse Case
So on we go..
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
PART 1 :
Start (using black) with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Round 1 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;
2 dc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 : dc in each dc all around.
Continue with Rep Rounds 5 – 6 , increasing 12 sts every alternate row, till you have a face size you want for your pouch or bag.
Once we have our Minnie Mouse face, fasten off and weave in ends.
Remember that we’re making a semi-circular face, so this circle that we’re making for the face will be folded in half.
My circle is about 8.75” diameter.
PART 2 :
Minnie Mouse Ears : (Make two in black)
As we’ve got our black yarn out anyway, let’s make the ears first.
Two little rounds will make our ears that we will attach on the front top of the semi-circle.
So fold your circle in half, and the flat part will be the bottom of your pouch.
We will attach the ears only on one side of the top.
Start (using black) with a magic circle and 8 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close circle. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 1 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;
2 dc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
My ears are about 3.25” diameter.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to join.
Make your second ear.
We will make now make Minnie Mouse’s oversized eyes.
PART 3 A:
Minnie Mouse Lighter part of face :
Make one using off-white or light cream yarn.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start with a 22 fdc. Turn.
Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st fdc , dc in each fdc till end ;
2 dc in the last fdc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 3 - 4 : Rep Row 2.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Row 5 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
(dc in the next 7 dc ; dc 2 tog over the next 2 dc) ;
sc in the next 2 dc ;
dc 2 tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
(dc in the next 5 dc ; dc 2 tog over the next 2 dc) ;
sc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2 tog over the next 2 dc ;
dc in the next 5 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto main piece.
PART 3 B :
Minnie Mouse Eyes :
Make two using white
Start with a 6 fdc. Turn.
Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st fdc ,
dc in next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the last fdc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 3 - 4 : Rep Row 2.
Row 5 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
For a neat finish : (Optional) You could run a round of sl-st all around the edges of your eye – so starting with where you are, do sl-st in each of the top 5 dc’s, and then sl-st all the way going down the sides, the starting row and then up the other side.
This gives the whites of the eyes a nice finish and will be easy to attach as well. However, it is also possible to attach without this round.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto main piece.
PART 3 C :
Minnie Mouse Eyes :
Make two using black.
Now for the little black bits of Minnie Mouse’s eyes, we’ll start with a fsc chain, and then work till the end of that chain, and turn around and work under the chain.
Start with a 4 fsc. Turn.
Round 1 : 3 sc in the 1st fsc , sc in next 2 fsc ;
3 sc in the last fsc ;
(Turn and working under the fsc chain) ;
sc in the next 2 fsc
and join with a sl-st to the 1st fsc.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the whites of the eyes.
PART 4 :
Minnie Mouse Bow : (Make one in red)
For our bow, we’re going to make a dc strip about 2.75” wide and then double it to make the bow. I think it will be tough to line a bow, so if we double this up, then it will hold its own and not need a lining to hold it up between the ears.
Now, the sizing given here is what I’ve made – but it remains unsaid that you must please adjust this according to the size of your bag.
Start with 15 fdc. Turn.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ; dc in each fdc till end. Turn.
Row 2 - 14 : dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till your bow strip is the length you need to make a bow.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew in.
PART 5 :
Bag strap :
If you decide to make a bag strap, make a long fsc chain – which will be nice thin and pretty durable.
If you want it a little thicker, then work an sc (or hdc) in each fsc of this chain till you reach the start.
Join to the two sides of your Minnie Mouse bag.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
.. and here are links to line your bag and add a zipper
How to line your bag : Check this link below
PART 6 :
Finishing : There are several elements in this Minnie Mouse bag that need to be attached. So let’s start with this fun job. For this final finishing, we’re going to join all the elements we’ve made onto one side of the Minnie Mouse’r face (made in black)
And wow.. just look at what you’ve created.
One little kiddo is going to be mighty pleased
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