EASY
COIN PURSE 1
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I’ve
used this pattern chart before to make a spectacle case and a larger coin
purse (links for both given at the end of this blog), and here is a tinier purse.
Using the same pattern, and just changing colours of yarn, see the two
totally different looking purses that one can get.
Materials used : polyester purse
yarn, about 1 cone, with a 3.25 mm
If using two colours, then its probably a little of the contrast colour as well.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; 4-ply cotton or unbranded knitting cotton as well
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
hdc 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] ; 3 times
(7 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 7 lps on hk. One hdc 3-tog made.
The difference in this pattern is that we’re not going to be
using this as a decrease stitch, but to make a puffed stitch, so we will insert
hk into the same ch-sp each time to make the hdc 3-tog and not in three
individual sts.
Half double crochet 3-tog : hdc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/E-WbOP531a4
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to line your bag :
How to attach a zipper on your bag : http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
Easiest I-cord : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
We will start with a fsc row. We then work till the end of that row, and
then turning around, we’ll work along the bottom of our fsc chain. The following rows will then be worked back
and forth to give it this classic shape and effect. Our flap will be worked in
at one end as we grow the sides of our little coin purse. How cute is this, right? So let’s get
started.
Note : Please read through to end to see the 'tweaks'.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start with
35 fsc.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
In this video we turn the fsc into a round. In our pattern we work only around one side of the fsc - so this is to show you how to do that. Do NOT work the fsc into a round. In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/DwkKgtGaJMY
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st sc ; and each sc till last fsc on this side ;
Turn and work 3 sc in last sc ;
Turn and we’ll work all along the bottom of the sc
row with 1 sc in each sc till end. Turn
Note :
You may want to place a marker in the 1st of the 3 corner sts (that
we’ve worked in that last fsc)
Row 2 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked sc ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 2 sc
in the next sc ;
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked st ; 2 sc each in the next 2 sc
; sc in the next sc ;
2 sc each in the next 3 sc
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 4 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked st ; 1 sc in each of the next sc
;
[2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sc in the next 2 sc ;
rep [to] 3 times
sc in the next 2 sc ;
rep [to] 3 times
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
sc of the 2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 5 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the one sc before the marked
st ;
ch 1, sk the marked st ; sc in the next sc ;
[ch 1, sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
[ch 1, sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the sc after the last ch-1 sp just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
We will use our hdc 3-tog in this row.
For a quick refresher, check the ‘how to’ on top of this blog write up.
For a quick refresher, check the ‘how to’ on top of this blog write up.
Do remember that the difference in this pattern is that we’re
not going to be using this as a decrease stitch, but to make a puffed stitch,
so we will insert hk into the same ch-sp each time to make the hdc 3-tog
and not in three individual sts.
Row 6 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till 1st ch-1 sp / marked sp ;
hdc 3-tog in that 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 2,
sk the next sc ; hdc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last hdc 3-tog just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 7 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till 1st hdc 3-tog / marked sp
;
sc in the 1st hdc 3-tog ;
[2 sc in the
next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next hdc 3-tog] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last sc – over that last hdc
3-tog) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 8 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till one sc before the marked sc ;
ch 1, sk the marked sc , sc in the next sc ;
[ch 1, sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
[ch 1, sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Move marker to the last sc – over that last ch-1
sp) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 9 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till one sc before the marked sc ;
sc 3-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk the next sc ; sc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
[ch 3, sk the next sc ; sc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Put marker away) ;
sc in each sc till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tweaks :
So how do we get a little purse with the base in one colour and the flap in another. Not too complicated.
So for the Brown & Red flap purse :
Starting on Row 2, at the 'flap end' where we start with the increases in the 3 dc, you will attach the yarn for your flap (i.e whichever colour you want the flap to be in), and work the 3 dc in this new flap colour.
You will carry your un-used main yarn along (see the How to links for this), and you will re-use your main (body) colour yarn for the stitches on the other side of the fdc.
Similarly in Row 3, for all instructions that follow for the stitches on the flap yarn, i.e the 3 dc of Row 2, you will use the contrast yarn for the flap, carrying the un-used main yarn along.
Ensure that you loop the two yarns neatly at the start and finish of each colour change, and you will have a neat seamless colour movement.
For the black & white purse it's way simpler, as you start with one coloured yarn, and at the end of the row, you will attach the second colour and work that whole row.
These are just two tweaks I'm giving you here, but the possibilities, as you will see, are endless.. so have fun.. create.. enjoy and share your creations with me.
Finishing :
As we have a nice flat purse right now, I’d suggest
that you line it (if desired) first and then sew the sides up.
You will then attach your button before you’re finally done with this oh, so cute and awesome little purse.
You will then attach your button before you’re finally done with this oh, so cute and awesome little purse.
There are several ‘how to’ links for sewing the sides of this bag up.
Depending on the size your bag has turned out, and
if you so decide, I’ve also added a ‘how to’ link on making an I-cord for this bag, so you can make it a
sling bag as well.
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