LEGO BACK PACK
I loved this Lego pattern so much that I’ve made two Lego blankets using it ... and then my lovely sister asked for a Lego back pack .. so yaay.
I love how this pattern has worked with this yarn too and have enjoyed writing about this creation.
If you have read my blog about the blankets, then you’ll know what I mean about the video link here..
What I love most about this video link is that the super designer does not waste any time in talking about anything.. just goes straight into the project – my kind of video
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Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; zipper.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
“Pop” stitch : The designer has used the following stitch and called it a “Pop” stitch. It is 5 trc, all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.
Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA
Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch sk : skip
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fdc : Foundation Double crochet
trc : triple crochet
trc 5-tog : triple crochet 5-tog.
Instructions :
Instructions :
The designer has a superb video that is totally self explanatory.
My notes here are only for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chainless dc start, and a finishing idea / difference.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Inspired by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9b5i81Ao1U
Start with 14 fdc. Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc. Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other start – however, this is just a choice.
Depending on the thickenss of your yarn, I’d say you could use either a dc or a trc for the pop stitch. The pop stitch, as I mentioned at the start, is 5 sts worked in the same st. Check the top of this blog for a dc 5-tog.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ;
5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 sc ;
sc in the last 2 sc. Turn
Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
dc in each st till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.
Finishing : sc in each st till end ; 1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ; 1 more sc in the corner st (back where we started out). Join with a sl-st to the first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One Lego block made.
Finishing :
Once you’ve made all the Lego bricks / blocks you need, you will see the beautiful join that the designer has made – the white chains showing up on top add a lovely edging that make this more like a Lego pattern.
Kudos to this beautiful design and more so that this wonderful person has shared this all for free !!
Now I thought that for the back of my bag (i.e the part that rests against the back and so does not really show) I’d do a neat striped pattern – so I just made a rectangle of the same size as I have for the front, using one colour per line. Yes, this does mean that there are a lot of colour changes, but I love this finish too.
We also need two straps and one border strip that runs all around the sides and bottom of the back pack.
For all three pieces, I once again did this long fdc chain and then used one colour for each row.
For all three pieces, I once again did this long fdc chain and then used one colour for each row.
Measurements / Length calculations
The two back straps are a fairly easy calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on both top and bottom ends. Ensure that your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the bag.
For the long piece that goes around and the bottom of the bag – little math and calculation needed .
You will need to calculate how many stitches you have across each Lego brick. Now this is not that hard a calculation – we know that we have started with 14 sts, and we have 6 rows.. so that’s a start for calculations.
Depending on how many bricks we have across, multiply that number by 14 (along brick length) and add 1 stitch per two bricks (This one stitch will equal that one stitch that is between the joint of 2 bricks).
You need to add 2 sts per corner to allow your strip to neatly turn.
You will calculate for two lengths, so multiply accordingly.
You similarly calculate the number of stitches across each Lego brick width.
Add your totals, and this number determines the number of fdc you need to start with for the strip that goes around the sides and bottom of your backpack.
So say for our pattern below, here’s how I would calculate the fdc needed : (Diagram below)
(14 x 5) x 2 + (6 x 4) + 15
The + 15 stitches are (for the “st between 2 Lego bricks” + 2 per corner).
Of course, there is no hard-and-fast rule here, so whatever works for you.. If you have a better method, do add it on so we can help someone else. Thanks.
Once you’ve made this strap, attach one side of it to the front, and the other to the back and we’re done. Remember that we’ve got the 2 “extra stitches” along the corners, so what I did was count out my stitches on the strap, attach markers and then did one continuous attachment all around.
You can then attach the back straps to the back of the back pack.
Our final finishing will be the top finishing for the pull tie. So I first did one round of sc around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end.
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can easily thread in your pull tie.
For my pull tie, I just held a few of the coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the length needed.
I finally added a little shell at the end of each yarn, which not only neatly hides that end, but also gives it a cute finish.
Or check out this video.
Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) How to attach a zipper : Check this link at http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
See the lil shells.. love it..
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