Sweet Nothings Crochet: RIBBED YOGA SOCKS

free crochet pattern, free crochet yoga socks pattern,

RIBBED YOGA SOCKS

I just made my first pair of yoga socks and I thought of this new ribbed pattern for my second pair. These socks (well, this pattern with the open or free heel) I am informed are also great for pilates, kick boxing and dance.. so hmmm.. guess this one is going to get made at least once more!

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This is my own pattern that I am working off the first pattern idea – well, the idea of the number of stitches and how that was made, keeping the heel free.

The effect on these socks is mainly due to this absolutely superb Camel Stitch which is a lot like working in the back loops, but with a slight twist. The end result is this knitted-like effect along the front of your work, which looks pretty darn swell.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 80 gms of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 4. 5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : Foot Size 5

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

First off, as usual, let’s think about how we’re going to make our yoga socks. We will start with a foundation row in half double crochet.

We will work one part that will go around the ankle, and then work around the same foundation row to work the part that will go around the arch of the foot. The heel part is left open, which is what makes these socks unique.

So right off the bat, ideas – let’s all start with the same number of stitches.

If you think that the number does not work, just double up your yarn and increase the hook size. Of course, if this does not work, then just increase the number of stitches – as this project does not have a pattern repeat or a definite stitch requirement.

The only thing that we will do throughout is work our Camel stitch from Round 1.

For practical purposes, I am going to write hdc-blo instead of the longer word Camel stitch. I also write this just in case you find the Camel stitch too hard to do, then you just work hdc-blo in each stitch and you will still get a pretty cute end product.

Camel stitch using hdc : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/mqeLOv0oOU0

Right then.. let’s start hookin

Part 1 : The ankle portion

Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk

Start : with 32 fhdc or as many fhdc as you would need to go comfortably around your ankle. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st, ensuring that you keep the chain as flat as you can without twisting. (32 sts)

Note : We’re working the Camel Stitch in the place where I’ve written hdc-blo from now on, till otherwise specified.

Half double crochet back loop only (hdc-blo) : Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/mMZhS37JP2k

Whether you are working with the Camel stitch or hdc-blo, we will start with a ch-1 which will be a turning chain. This turning chain is not counted as a stitch.

Round 1 : ch 1, hdc in the 1^st fhdc ;

hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc ; hdc in the last fhdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts)

Stop for a second and slip the project onto your foot and see that it fits around your ankle. If yes, then carry on.. If not.. then just add / reduce a few stitches till you have it fit neatly.

Round 2 : ch 1, hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ; hdc in the last hdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts)

Rounds 3 - 7 : Rep Round 2. (32 sts) (Check note below)

Round 8 : sc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : At this point, measure the band you’ve made. I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size. This is the band that is going to go around your ankle, so see how wide you want this and rep Round 2 till you have the band of the size you want.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 2 : The arch of the foot portion

Re-attach your yarn at the first foundation round we’d started with.

We are now once again working on the first foundation round, but on the other side of the sts.

For this portion of the pattern, we will be working back and forth in rows from Row 2 – 4 . We will therefore, be working alternatively in hdc back loops and alternative rows in the Camel stitch for these rows.

We will then add a ch and rejoin to make a round (for the arched portion of foot), and once we’re working in rounds, we will go back to working the Camel stitch. The Camel stitch only shows its beauty when worked on the front of the work, which is why we will not use it when working on the back of your project.

In the following 2 round / row, if you can, then work the camel stitch, else work a hdc in the back loops only.

Round 1 : ch 1, hdc in the 1^st fhdc ;

hdc-blo in each fhdc till the last fhdc ; hdc in the last fhdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts)

Row 2 : sl-st in the 1^st 6 sts ; hdc in the next hdc ;

hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc .

Turn, leaving the last 6 sts unworked. (20 sts)

In the following row, we will be working back and forth in rows, so work hdc in back loops only.

Row 3 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ;

hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . Turn. (20 sts)

In the following row, work the Camel stitch, if you can, else continue with back loops.

At the end of the row, we will rejoin the two ends of our row with ch-12 and make it a round.

Row 4 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ;

hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc . ch 12.

Ensuring that you keep this chain straight (without twisting), join it to the 1^st st. (32 sts)

Round 5 : ch 1, hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc-blo in the next 19 hdc ;

12 hdc in the next ch-12 sp. (32 sts) (Check note below)

Note : May I suggest that you take the trouble of working 1 hdc per ch – i.e going into each chain stitch and working individual hdc rather than just working a set of 12 hdc in that full ch-12 sp. It will not just look nicer, but also hold the back of your socks really well.

From this round on, we will work with our Camel stitch once again.

If you decide to work on the hdc back loops as before, that’s ok.

Else, remember that where it reads hdc-blo, you will work the Camel stitch.

Round 6 : ch 1, hdc in the 1^st hdc ; hdc-blo in each hdc till the last hdc ;

hdc in the last hdc. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts)

Rounds 7 - 11 : Rep Round 2. (32 sts). (Check note below)

Round 12 : sc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (32 sts).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : At this point, measure the band you’ve made.

I’ve got about 2.5” and I’m happy with that size.

This is the band that is going to go around the arch of your foot, so see how wide you want this and rep Round 2 till you have the band of the size you want.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Let’s see what you come up with. Do remember to tag me giving me credit, so we can both drool over it together. Thanks.

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You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual footwear patterns.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2018/01/spear-edged-barefoot-sandals.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/12/mini-peacock-feather-barefoot-sandals.html