Sweet Nothings Crochet: FRILLY n CUTE LIL GIRL’s DRESS

FRILLY n CUTE LIL GIRL’s DRESS 1

There are patterns shared via the internet daily .. and many of them land up on my Pinterest board to make a never-ending “to-do” list. It’s always a juggle to see which one gets onto my hook when I start a project – so today the ball stops at this pattern.

Do check my long Pinterest list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

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Cheers. Enjoy

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This is a pretty neat pattern for a simple “A”-line dress. The yoke is a simple regular square / rectangle yoke with a one-line pattern repeat, and the skirt is an easy three-line pattern repeat. So do come along, and let’s work on this together.

Just as I posted this on Facebook, a friend mentioned that she saw "skull n bones" and a "Batmanesque" character in the pattern.. so guess if one is working this for Halloween, then one could go black n white and Goth with this one

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of yarns, and I have used about 70 – 80 gms of Bernat Baby and Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic with a 3 mm crochet hook ;

Optional : Stitch marker

For Indians : Bernat Baby is like our 4-ply Oswal / Wendy acrylic

Size made : Chest : 18” ; Length 15” for a 0-3 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

The stitches used are regular ordinary ones – the combinations used are complicated.

That said, the only “complication” lies in the joining of the yoke, and if you’ve made this square / rectangular yoke before, then this is totally easy-peasy for you.

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today. This picture is from the original link which is a great template to work by. However, this is NOT necessarily the size you are working with, so do not go by these numbers - just use this as an example.

We start with the yoke, which is worked like a square.

Two parts of this square will be the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of the yoke.

As usual, here are your choices. You need to decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you need to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it for the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the yoke.

If however, you want only a single button around the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and then work in rounds.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start on our yoke.

Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off two sides of this yoke, and the other two sides will be the armhole.

Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square yoke) given above. You will then calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.

Part I : Yoke

Start : with fsc as per the chart given above for square / rectangular yokes. The chart also gives the number of stitches per side. Please place markers to mark the four corners of your yoke.

We’re going to work in rows from the centre back so that there is an opening for the button placket.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and each fsc till the 1^st corner marker ;

(ch 2, dc in the next dc) ;

*dc in the next fsc and each fsc till the next corner marker ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

dc in each fsc till the end. Turn.

From this row on, we really do not need our corner markers , as the ch-2 sps are our corners.

Now let’s understand where our armholes are coming in. We started at the centre back, and then came to our 1^st corner. The section between that 1^st and 2^nd corner will form the first armhole section. The next armhole section is between the 3^rd and last corner.

So obviously, the section between our 2^nd and 3^rd markers is the front chest of the dress. Got it?

In the picture below, the "arrow" shows you which are the two corners that will be joined to form the armhole.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-2 sp ;

*(dc in the ch-2 sp ; ch 2, dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; dc in each dc till the next ch-2 sp* ; rep *to* the last ch-2 sp ;

rep (to) in the last ch-2 sp ;

dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Now remember that we’re probably working on different baby girl dress sizes here. The button hole that you want at the back will differ, so ensure that you work back and forth in rows till you are satisfied with the opening you have, and then you will just join up at the last st and work in rounds.

You could work back and forth in rows all through the yoke and join only at the last row too, giving you a nice long button placket as well, but you’re well aware of that too.

When you decide you’ve had a long enough button hole opening, please join with a sl-st and you will now work in rounds here on.

Rep Row 2 till your yoke is of the length you require.

So how do you know when your yoke is the length required?

1. Fold your yoke in half at the neckline, such that you have both halves of your yoke together. You now have a shoulder strap and then the yoke falling neatly down, such that you can measure it.

2. Measure the yoke down from the shoulder blades (straps) to the bottom of the yoke. This is the length of your yoke

3. The above measurement is also the round armhole measurement

4. I would suggest that you check round armhole measurement as the measure you need, ensuring that you are also getting the round chest measure at the same time.

5. Your Round Chest or Across Front measure is the measurement from the right hand side to the left hand side of your work. You will double (or multiply by 2) this Across Front measure to check if you have the round chest measurement for the child you’re making this dress for

6. As I always say, the best way to ensure you’re doing this just right (especially if you’re doing it for the first time), is to keep a well fitting garment of the child you are making this dress for as a template to work off.

Now once you’re done with your yoke, I’d suggest we work in rounds, if you have not already started working in rounds before this. So on the last round, we will need to create our armhole, so let’s get that last round written down, shall we?

Last Yoke Round : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-sp ; sk all sts between the 1^st and 2^nd ch-sp(which now forms the 1^st armhole) ;

and dc in the next dc (which will be your front yoke) ;

dc in each dc all the way to your 3^rd ch-sp (which is the end of your front yoke) ; sk all sts between the 3^rd and 4^th ch-sp (which will be the next armhole) ;

dc in each dc till end.

Now before you head off.. count your stitches as we need multiples of 10 for the skirt portion. Please also read on before you work any further.

We will now work in rounds here on.

If you are deciding to change colours, please re-attach new coloured yarn.

Though it does not matter where you start your new colour from, I always find that it is neatest if you join it at the centre back.

PLEASE read through till * below BEFORE you attach your yarn, whether you’re changing your yarn color or not.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt section is 10, so ensure you have it in these multiples, or tweak it such that you get a multiple of 10

* Now here’s where this gets a little tricky, and this is mainly because we have this pretty big number as a stitch count / pattern repeat.

So here’s what I suggest before you join your yarn.

1. Count your stitches from one side to the other and ensure that you have multiples of 10.

2. For the skirt portion, you remember our chat a little earlier, about how we’re going to section off our armholes. So check that little note (above) again, and mark off your armholes.

3. If you are running short of just a few sts for the skirt, then you could always add them as a small chain or extra dc’s under the armhole i.e in that ch-sp just before you join your armholes. So this means that in your last row, calculate how many stitches you are running short of, and add them as a chain under the armhole, between the two ch-sps that are the armholes.

Right, you have your work cut out for you.

Re-attach your yarn as suggested, and let’s carry on.

Skirt instructions :

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st 4 sts ;

*(ch 3, sk next st, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) once ; ch 3, sk next st, dc in the next 4 sts* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

*(sk next ch-3 sp ; 4 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, 4 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;

dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

*(ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;) ;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ; ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

And yup, you know it too. We’ve just completed one repeat.

Rep Rounds 2 – 4 till you have a project of the length desired.

For general sizing, I’ve attached a link, but as I always say (and have said once on this blog as well), a well-fitting dress of the person for whom this project is intended is always the best bet.

A quick idea here. This is basically an “A”-line dress, and personally I feel that dresses of this shape look lovely on slightly older kids. I was not sure how it would work on a little baby girl – and decide that I am right, and that I want more of a ‘flared’ effect. So I just added some flare

I just decided to add a few chains for the chain spaces in rounds 3 & 4, and then added a few dc in that centre ch-sp in round 2. This actually does work and did add a little flare – so while it still keeps the “A”-lined effect, it does flare out a bit too – and that, I think, is a neat tweak and addition to the pattern.

Of course, if you want this pattern to flare out even more, then you need to go right back to Round 1 of the skirt, and add extra sts there , ensuring that you keep the stitch count (multiples), of course.

I have decided to add a second color for every alternate pattern row – but the original pattern, done all in the same colour looks swell too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

For a little more excitement, thread in a lovely light satin ribbon into the ready-made holes in the last line of your yoke or the first one of the dress. Make into a neat beautiful bow at the back before you gift it to the little girl, and watch her face light up !

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ??

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric. I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top. The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

Check out what I did here https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/06/chandras-frilled-dress.html

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Have a great day and see you soon.

I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/10/enchanting-dress.html