MY PURPLE PINEAPPLE DRESS
My client saw a similar dress I’d made sometime
back and wanted the same one. Now if you
have been following my work and my blog(s), you’ll know that I really do not
like to repeat my work – but I did need to get the client what she wanted as
well. Coincidentally, this pattern was shared
by someone on Facebook, and this was as similar as it was a little different..
so it just suited both my client and myself!
Aah, isn’t that just the nicest thing?
Thank you for joining me.
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Cheers. Enjoy
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Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for
little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on
and discover this new pattern together.
Inspired by this photo with its attached graph /
chart , here are my pattern notes.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used a combination of yarns and I have used ~ 250 gms of our lovely Indian
Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Optional : Stitch
marker
Size made : For
a 5 yr old
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the waist
up. Now it’s up to you to decide *where*
your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes,
or you could go way lower to the waist.
Whatever you decide, remember that you will work
half that round measure (so either half round chest or half round
waist).
Also remember that you need to ensure that you
need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your
yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will
use half the chest measure)
So you can work this pattern to fit a child of any
size. All you need to remember is to
check the link for the size needed for your child’s yoke, and then get the
stitch count right for the skirt , making it as long and frilly as you desire.
Ta da!
We will then work a set of motifs around the
base of the yoke which work like a belt.
As this is a separate attachment, you could decide if you want this
included or not.
We will then work on the skirt portion of our
dress off the bottom of the motifs.
Remember that if you
are working with the motifs, I’d suggest you make these motifs first just to
get a gauge of how large they’re going to be and where you need to start your
yoke from.
It would be neat to have these motifs come
around the waist i.e belt-like.
For the front of the yoke, we will work from
side to side, armhole to armhole.
For the back, you need a opening for a set of
buttons, so as you reach the shoulders, you will divide for the button hole
opening and work back and forth.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.
I have used a 4-ply yarn for my work, and I
found the dc (for motif) too large, so I have worked hdc’s both in the motif as
well as yoke portion.
For the skirt portion, I found that the “V”-st
was not working well for the 1st few rounds, as I had increased the
number of stitches to get a fuller flared skirt, so I have tweaked the “V”-st
for the first few rounds.
If working with knitting cotton or a thinner ply
acrylic yarn though, this write up would be perfect!
Part I : Motif
We start with the motifs. Once you’ve made one motif, you will measure
this out and decide how many you’ll need to go around the chest/waist of your
little girl and make that many motifs.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle. (2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc) in the magic circle ;
*ch
3, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
From the following round, we will use a “V”-st
which will be just for our motif.
Our Motif “V”-st will be (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in
the same st or ch-sp.
I specify Motif “V”-st as the yoke of our dress
also has a “V”-st which is different.
Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 corner sp
,
(3 dc ; ch 5, 3 dc) in the same ch-5 sp ;
*“V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ,
sk next 2 dc, rep
(to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ;
sk next 2 dc and join with
a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 2 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in
the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st, sk next dc,
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a “V”-st ;
ch
1, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 3 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in
the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 3 dc) ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st, sk next dc,
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a “V”-st ;
ch 2,
sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 4 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in
the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 4 dc) ;
*{ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next
“V”-st, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp} ;
ch 2, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep {to} ;
ch
2, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
We will make
all our motifs the same way till the last Round 5.
In case you wish to Join-As-You-Go, for all
following motifs, please use Round 5A for the
last round of your motif.
I have,
however, made each motif separately and then joined them – I have not used this
Join-as-you-go method.
In the following round, I will write
instructions on how to join ONE SIDE of your motif to another.
Instructions to join with the next motif are in
red, for convenience.
Round 5A : sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 4 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in
the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 4 dc) ;
{ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; sk
next “V”-st, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp} ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 4
dc ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the ch-5 corner sp of the earlier motif
; ch 2, 2 dc in the ch-5 sp of this motif ; dc in the next dc , sl-st
and join with the dc of the earlier motif ; dc in the next 3 dc of this
motif ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier motif
; ch 1, “V”-st in the ch-2 sp of this motif ; sk next “V”-st and “V’-st
in the next ch-2 sp of this motif ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st in
the ch-2 sp of the earlier motif ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; sl-st and
join with the dc of the earlier motif ; dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the
next ch-5 corner sp of this motif ; ch 2, sl-st and join with a sl-st to
the ch-5 corner sp of the earlier motif ; ch 2, 2 dc in the ch-5 sp of
this motif ; dc in the next 4 dc ;
*rep {to} once ; ch 2, sk next dc, rep (to)
once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep {to} ; ch
2, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Right then, go ahead and make as many motifs as
you need for the round waist.
I have decided to join all my motifs. There are two choices here.
1. You
could keep the last 2 motifs free (without joining the sides) and then keep the
opening for the back all the way down to the waist.
2. You
could join the motifs all the way around, and then work one full front, and two
backs.
Either way, it does not affect the pattern.
Choices and
decisions for you, as usual!
Part 2 : Yoke
The motifs we’ve just joined make the belt-like
waist part of our dress.
We will work from one side of the motifs for the
yoke, and we will work our skirt part of the dress off the other side of these
motifs.
We will work one front and one back
separately. The stitch count repeat for
our yoke is 3 + 2. Just for convenience,
and neatness, go ahead and work one row of sc all down the motif in multiples
of 3 + 2.
We have a “V”-st for the yoke as well, which is
(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Do NOT confuse this “V”-st with the one we’ve used in the motif before.
Row 1 : dc in 1st
sc ; sk next sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, “V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;
sk next sc, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in 1st
dc ; “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
and in each “V”-st all the way to the end ; dc
in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the armhole.
Armhole shaping
For our armhole decrease we will work just one
decrease row.
Armhole shaping Row :
sl-st in the 1st dc and the next“V”-sts ;
dc in the ch-1 sp
of the next “V”-st ;
and in each “V”-st all the way to the 2nd last
“V”-st from end ;
dc in the ch-1 sp of that 2nd last “V”-st. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the neckline
level.
For the neckline shaping, figure out how deep and wide you want your neckline, and then place a marker at the point that decides the sides of your neckline.
You will work from the armhole till the ch-1 sp
of the marked st ; dc in that marked stitch.
You will once again Rep Row 2 till your project
reaches the shoulder level, working one shoulder at a time.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Once done, return to the other marker (for the other side of the neckline) and work
a dc in that marked ch-1 sp of that “V”-st.
Once again, Rep Row 2 till your project reaches
the shoulder level.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
You have completed one side of your yoke.
Repeat instructions for the other side (back) of
the yoke.
The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level.
The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Join your two yokes at the shoulders and sides.
For the skirt portion of our dress, we will work
in rounds.
Part 3 : Skirt for your beautiful dress
I suggest you work the skirt portion of our
dress in rounds. We will be working the
skirt part of our dress from the other side of the motifs. So one side was the yoke, and we will now
work from the other side.
Before we work out our stitch count, two points
: 1) Ensure that you manage to get the stitch count by adding stitches if need
be : and 2) The more the number of stitches you have (in multiples, of course),
the more the flare / frills on your skirt for this dress.
Our stitch count for the skirt is in multiples of 8
Just to get the number of stitches right, let’s
work our first Start Round with a round of sc all around
Start : sc in 1st
st and in each st all round, ensuring you have multiples of 8.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
For our skirt part, we have a “V”-st again.
Here
our “V”-st is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Once again I remind you that when I refer to
“V”-st, I mean the stitch for this part of our project. Please do not confuse
it with the earlier “V”-sts. Thanks.
Round 1 : dc in 1st
sc ;
*ch 1, sk next sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 1,
sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 2 : dc in 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 3 : Rep Round
2.
Now here’s where your calculations start.
You need to check your gauge. Our last bit of pineapple and border will be
a total of 13 rows.
1. Check
how many inches you have with 13 rounds of work.
2. Check
what is the total length for the skirt and dress you are working on
3. Subtract
the number of inches that you have calculated for those last 13 rounds of work
and work the rounds given according to length.
As per the chart, there are increases in the
ch-sps between the “V”-sts which means that there is an addition to the flare
of your dress. So the next few sets of
rounds will be with the same general pattern, just increasing the space between
and therefore increasing the flare.
Rounds 4 - 6 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, dc in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Rounds 7 - 10 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Before working this row, please read the Note just below
Rounds 11 :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, dc in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Note
1. This is the last row of plain “V”-sts and
dc’s with ch-sps, and from the next row on we will start the first row for the
pineapple.
You have worked out earlier the final length you
need, and calculated how many inches will be added by these pineapples and
border. So double check NOW that your calculations are right before you start
this row.
IF you need more length, I’d suggest you
continue with Round 10 till you are ready for the pineapple and border.
2. For the start of the pineapple, we will be
working a total of 9 dc in the “V”-sts.
You can opt to add all 9 dc in the ch-2 sp OR you could make this a ch-3
sp in Round 10 or you could follow my
instructions and split the 9 dc –
So my splitting : 2 dc in the
1st 2 dc of the “V’-st ; 5 dc in that ch-2 sp ; 2 more dc in the 2nd
2 dc of the same “V”-st = 9 dc total.
Round 12 : sl-st into
the 1st “V”-st ; “V”-st in
the same “V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) ;
3 dc in the ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st)] ; ch 3, dc in the
next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 13 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next
dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
The following round we start with the first of
our pineapple-y bits. So a quick note here.
From experience, I’ve learned that it is best and simplest to
check the number of ch-3 sps (for the pineapple) at the end of each round
and/or each pineapple. It’s the most
awful thing to go round, complete the few hundred stitches, and find you have
an error at the start – or worse realize this error three rounds down.
Round 14 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sk next dc , sc in the next dc ;
(ch 3,
sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
ch 5, sk next dc, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 15 : Increase Round : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same 1’st “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
In the following round, we will split
that increased “V”-st into two “V”-sts
Round 16 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ; “V”-st in
the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 17 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 3,
“V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 18 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 3, dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 19 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
{ch 3, dc
in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 20 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
{ch 3, dc
in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st
;
rep {to} 3 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 21 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
{ch 3, dc
in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 3 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the
next ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 5,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep {to} 4 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 22 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
{ch 3, dc
in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 4 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 5, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st ;
rep {to} 5 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
With this, we’ve finished our beautiful
pineapple.
Put your work down and admire
your handicraft for a bit.
Just three rounds to go.. yaay!
Round 23 : sl-st
into the ch-2 sp of the 1st “V”-st
, 7 dc in the same ch-2 sp ;
*(sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 1 dc, 7 dc in the next
dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 1 dc, 5 dc in the ch-2 sp of the
next “V’-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
As I’ve mentioned before, I am using a thicker
4-ply yarn, and the pattern was working differently for me. I have, therefore
made a few changed is what I have done in my project, but I am writing
these notes as shown in the diagram.
After all, I’ve always said, that each
difference that you make in a pattern shows your creative *genius* .. so go
ahead, be different, and create a genius pattern!
Round 24 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
*dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 6 times* ;
Rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
The final round of this superb dress is finished
with a round of picot.
I have decided not to do this, as my yarn is too
thick, but I’d suggest a ch-3 picot will work really well here.
The picot then would be (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd
ch from hook)
Round 25 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(sc + picot in the next dc) ; sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve finished our dress as per the chart. I just thought I’d add a small sleeve (of
sorts) and am going to try and adapt a chart from another pattern for this one
here. Let’s see how this works out.
If you are happy with your sleeveless dress,
then you’re done ! So yaay!
Part 4 : Sleeves
As per this chart, our stitch count for the
sleeve is 21, so for our first round, let’s run a round of sc all around in
multiples of 21.
You may decide to add the sleeves and join them
to the edge of the armhole (like a Magyar sleeve) or you may decide to join
them together and make it all around.
I am leaving the option to you and just working
it back and forth in rows.
If you decide to make this a round, just join
with a sl-st to the 1st st in a round.
Start : with
a round of sc in multiples of 21 all around the armhole edge.
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st sc ;
*ch 4, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn.
Row 2 : sl-st
in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep (to) once
;
7 dc in the next ch-4 sp;
sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 : sl-st
in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ; dc in the next
dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
sc in the next ch-4 sp*
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In the following row, we will work a dc 3-tog in
the ch-4 sps.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Row 4 : sl-st
in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 2, dc
3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In our last row, the pattern shows a ch-4 sp to
finish.
So you could either work as per
this chart, or you could work a ch-3 picot as we have for the edge of our
dress.
Row 5 : sc
in the 1st sc ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end.
IF you decide to work a picot ..
Row 6 : sc
+ picot in the 1st sc ;
*(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc + picot in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet
another beautiful dress made for your young lady.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
Part 5 : Make your own button
I should
also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink
beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely
as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a
little fabric. I then sewed in the beads
onto that little fabric top. The base of
the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I
think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?
For more
information and photos on this little button, visit
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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
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