A LOVELY 3 – IN - 1 SKIRT
Odd name for a skirt ?? Well this lovely creation has three
sets of patterns and it all neatly adds up to one fantastic skirt – fits ?? The
name.. I mean ..
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Materials used : Red rose knitting cotton ~ 300 gms , with a 2.50 mm
For Indians : This
pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. like Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarn . I say this just for the way you’d want it to
‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.
For Non - Indians : I'd say that any light weight yarn would work for this
pattern - mainly due to the use of three different patterns in one skirt ; each
of which is pretty lacy.
Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Waist
: 30-32” : Length : 24”
You can make this skirt to any size. Size given here only as a gauge for yarn estimation.
You can make this skirt to any size. Size given here only as a gauge for yarn estimation.
Gauge : 3
dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”
Gauge is not
essential.
Stitches used :
Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
This
is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single
crochet
dc : Double
crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip
stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
hdc : Half Double Crochet
General Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is not my
original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating
freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am
sharing them with you.
With this pattern, as
with my other patterns, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start.
I
personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the
work.
However if you wish to
start with regular chains, go ahead.
You will need to work 2 chains more
than given for the start, and work in the 3rd ch from hk which will become your
1st dc.
The designer has also
used a tie-cord to bring the waist together.
This has two advantages
– not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you
also have a lot more flair for your skirt.
In case you decide you
want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then use the round waist / round
hips measurement (whichever is more).
For a tie cord waist :
a) You will use the
hip/waist measure and a little more than that, keeping the stitch count in
mind.
b) You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass
your tie cord.
c) I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all
around.
d) You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.
The video below will show you a really easy and neat I-cord that can work for this skirt.
For
a fitted waist :
a) This works best if the difference between hip and waist is not
too much.
b) You will still start with the round hip measurement, keeping
the stitch count in mind.
c) For the first few rows you will work back and forth in rows and
you will have a small opening around the back (or side, if you so decide)
d) After the first few rows, you will join up and work in rounds
e) The first few rows could be (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) till
end.
f) Once you have the slight opening done, please join up and work
the pattern in rounds.
This pattern has three
parts – so I suggest you look at the whole pattern and decide how long / wide
you want each section – or just divide it up equally into thirds – one third
for each pattern. So first decide on the full length you want for your
skirt, and then divide that into thirds.… and off we go
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
We’re all going to work in rounds.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 1.
PATTERN 1
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Slip stitch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB3QNbA8Iw&t=1s
Start with fdc in multiples of 3 + 1.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Round
1 : sc in 1st fdc ;
ch 8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in
next fdc ;
*ch
8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in next fdc* ;
rep
*to* till end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round
2 : sk 1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8
sp ;
*sk
next sc, 8 sc in next ch-8 sp* ;
rep
*to* till end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 3 : sl-st
in 1st 3 sc ,
sc in the next sc ;
ch 8, sk next 7 sc, sc in
next sc ;
*ch 8, sk next 7 sc, sc
in next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st sc.
Round 4 : sk
1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8 sp ;
*sk next sc, 8 sc in
next ch-8 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st sc.
Rep Rounds 3 & 4 for
the length you desire.
PATTERN 2
I am going to start numbering from 1 for this pattern.
Please do not confuse it with the earlier pattern numbering.
We will work a "V"-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st or ch-sp
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Round
1 : sl-st in the next 3 sc ;
“V”-st in next sc ;
ch 2 , sk
next 5 sc , dc in next 4 dc ;
*ch
2, sk next 6 sc , “V”-st in next sc ;
ch 2, sk next 5 sc, dc in next 4 dc*
;
rep
from *to* till end ;
ch
2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
2 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st ,
“V”-st
in same “V”-st ;
*(2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
2
dc in the next ch-2 sp);
“V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep
from *to* till end ;
rep
(to) once.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
3 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st ,
“V”-st
in same “V”-st ;
*ch
2, sk next 2 dc ,
(dc
in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
ch
2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
4 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st
in same “V”-st ;
*ch 4, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch
4, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 4, sk next
2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch
4, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
5 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st
in same “V”-st ;
*ch
2 , (2 dc in next ch-4 sp ; sk next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-4 sp) ;
ch
2, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep
from *to* till end ;
rep
(to) once ;
ch
2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Your rep rounds are
Rounds 2-5.
Rep till you have this pattern for the length you desire ; ending
with Round 3.
PATTERN 3
This last pattern set is
the famous ‘lattice’ pattern.
It’s a long repeat
because the lovely designer has started with a lattice then moved the next
lattice - so as you’re working this pattern set out.. do try and see how
this is working out.
The idea of my blog is
also to help you along with chart reading, so …
In the chart below, the first
round of this pattern is Round 3 of Pattern 2, so our first round here will be
the 2nd line of this pattern chart.
We’re starting as
usual with that 1st “V”-st, and for this pattern we do not use
this st.
So we will consider this
as 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the coming round.
A quick understanding of
this first foundation round for our 3rd pattern set.
We’re going to make a
(ch 3, then do 5 scs, then ch 3 and 3 dcs) all around.
To make our life
(and pattern reading) a little simpler, rather than throw all these sc’s and
dc’s around, I’m just going to call everything a STITCH.
However, PLEASE
remember that if the ch sp is a ch-1 sp, that qualifies as ONE STITCH, and
similarly our ch-2 sps, qualify as TWO stitches ; each dc will obviously
qualify as ONE stitch.
Finally pay attention to the brackets / parenthesis.
Once we’ve got this 1st round
done, the rest is simpler
Round 1 : sl-st
in 1st dc of the 1st “V”-st ,
dc in next dc ;
dc in next st ;
(ch 3, sk next dc, sk
next ch-2 sp, sk next dc,
sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk
next ch-1 sp,
sk next dc , dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 2
sc in next ch-2 sp ,
sc in next 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp} ;
((ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk
next ch-2 sp ,
dc in the next 3 dc)) ;
[(ch 3, sk next dc, sk
next ch-2 sp ,
sk next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp,
sc in next 2 dc ,
1 sc in next ch-2 sp)] ;
ch 3 , sk next ch (of
this ch-2 sp) ,
sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp
Now you can see what the
designer is doing.. skipping 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set, sk next 4 sts and
doing a 5 sc set, sk next 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set again.
This is
what I’ve figured from the chart below and done.
So carry on with this
scalloped shape all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
I was wondering why I
was unable to get a rep to give you.. now while I did finally
get one, it’s too long.. so I think we’ll stay with my rep calculation above..
and hopefully that’s going to work without a problem..
So done with this
round.. and I am one stitch short.. we’ve got to sk 4 sts, and I had only 3..
so I just fudged it and have joined with a sl-st to the first 3 dc-set.
And phew.. we’ve done it
!!
The rest of the rounds are going to be a breeze.. and you’re going
to love it
Round 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc ;
2 dc in next
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next 3 sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc
in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in
next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
dc in the same 1st ch-1
sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc
in next dc ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, dc in
next sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc
in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around
;
dc in next dc ;
ch 3,
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sc
in the same 1st dc ;
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc
in next dc ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc
in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next dc ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
* rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around,
ending with a rep (to) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next ch-3 sp ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sc
in the 1st two sc ;
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc
in next dc ;
dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
sc in next sc ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : sc
in the 1st two sc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc
in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in
next ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc ; sc in next 3 sc] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending
with a rep (to) ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next sc ;
join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 7 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in
next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc,
2 dc in next ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc , dc
in next sc ;
ch 3, sk next sc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in next dc] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around
ending with a rep (to) ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next sc ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : sl-st
into 1st ch of ch-3 sp ,
2 dc in same ch-3 sp
; dc in next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc
in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next dc,
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc ; 2 dc
in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc
in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around
ending with a rep (to) ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next sc ;
join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 9 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next
3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc
in next dc ;
dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc
in next 3 sc ;
sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ;
rep
[to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 10 : dc
in 1st dc ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next 3 sc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in
next dc,
2 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end
;
join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Now before you start your
repeat, TURN, go into that ch-1 sp, and then TURN AGAIN and start your repeats.
Our repeat rounds are Rounds
3-10.
So while we do all that starts with Round 3, you must get to that
ch-1 sp first, so the two turns underlined above.. you continue reps till you
get the final skirt length you want .. and tada
!!! we’re done.
The designer has ended with a Round
9.. which is probably the line with the least spaces.. and the centre of one
part and completion of another latticed part… but you could find any round that
suits you to end too.
There is also a border, which I’ve written .. but you can see if
you want to add that.. or leave it with this lovely filigree edging after Round
9 too.
BORDER
Let’s quickly take a
look at our work and what we’re going to do with the border – so we have 2 sets
of sts that we’re going to have chains swinging between.
One set consists of a 3
sc set, and the next is a (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) set.
So the centre sc and the
centre of (to) which is the ch-1 will be the ones being used.
Oh, you may also see in
the chart below, that the designer has used a ch 10 between 2 sets.
I
feel that an odd number of chain is better, as it’s simpler to count off – but
once again, this is up to you.
OK, so off we go for the
last 2 rounds that make our border.
Border Round 1 : sc in 1st 3 sc ;
*ch 9, sk next sc , sk next 2 dc , sc in next dc ;
sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in next dc ;
ch 9, sk next 2 dc, sc in next 3 sc* ;
rep *to* all around till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st sc.
In the following round, we use a ch - 3 picot, which is a decorative stitch, and is a (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st st) all in the same st. Check the video below for a really easy video on how to neatly picot.
Border Round 1 : sl-st into next sc ; sc + picot in
the same sc ;
*sl-st in the next sc ;
dc in next ch ;
(dc + picot in the next
ch ; dc in next ch) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; dc in
last ch ; sl-st in next sc ;
[sc + picot in next sc]*
;
rep *to* all around till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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