TURBAN HEADBANDS
If you’ve been following my blog, you’ll know that I have made this turban headband pattern before. The main difference here is getting a pattern that works before we tie it into a turban. Today we’re going to work four patterns in this one blog.
Come along and let’s have some fun with this 4 – in – 1 blog
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General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Easy
Stitches used :
dc : Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch
Instructions using U.S terminology
The basic idea for a turban headband is working a strip (or tape lace) long enough to go twice around your head.
For an adult, the head circumference is 22” so we need about 44” for the turban headband. When actually working this length of lace, you need to take into account the stretch of yarn as well as the tension (tightness or looseness of work) of your stitches.
So you may need only 42” , maybe, and the last 2” (for 44”) will be covered by the stretch and tension of work. Got it?
To ensure that you get it right, work the first two rows and then hold it against your head and see that it works.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Right then, today we work four patterns to make the basic tape or strip that we can then work into the turban.
I’ve worked a strip of about 2.5” as my client wanted a slimmer headband – but you can make this as wide as you like.
May I add that for a turban headband a little wider is better.
Now once you have finished the headband strip, fasten off and leave a tail for joining. Take a look at the video to see how we make this strip into a turban headband.
Turban Headband Pattern 1 :
Stitches used :
Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
Our stitch count for this pattern is in multiples of 4 – 1
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc (in multiples of 4 minus 1) as needed for the length of your headband. Turn.
Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 3 fsc ;
ch 1, sk next fsc ;
(hdc in the next 3 fsc ; ch 1, sk next fsc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Row 3 : hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ;
(ch 1, sk next hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc in the next 2 hdc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
We’ve moved the ch-sp by one stitch, as you can see.
Row 4 : hdc in the 1st 3 hdc ;
(ch 1, sk next hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc in the next 2 hdc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Row 5 : hdc in the 1st 3 hdc ;
hdc in the next ch-1 sp
(ch 1, sk next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
hdc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
See how we’ve moved the ch-sp by one stitch in each row and we’re getting this nice diagonal of ch-sps.
Rep Rows 3 - 5 till you have the width needed for your project
Last row : Work one row of sc in each st all the way to the end.
Fasten off and leave a tail for joining.
Turban Headband Pattern 2 :
Our stitch count for this pattern is an uneven number of fsc
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc (in an uneven number) as needed for the length of your headband. Turn.
Row 2 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
ch 1, sk next fsc ; sc in the next fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc ; sc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st 2 sc ;
(ch 1, sk next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Row 4 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 1, sk next sc ; sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 - 4 till you have the width needed for your project
Last row : Work one row of sc in each st all the way to the end.
Fasten off and leave a tail for joining.
Turban Headband Pattern 3 :
This pattern is worked in all post stitches.
We work the fpdc or front post double crochet stitch.
Stitches used :
dc : Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc as needed for the length of your headband. Turn.
Row 2 : hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till the end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st hdc ;
fpdc in the next hdc ;
and in each hdc till the 2nd last hdc ;
dc in the last hdc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
fpdc in the next dc ;
and in each dc till the 2nd last dc ;
dc in the last
dc. Turn.
Rep Row 4 till you have the width needed for your project
Last row : Work one row of sc in each st all the way to the end.
Fasten off and leave a tail for joining.
Turban Headband Pattern 4 :
This pattern is a combination of a shell and just plain lace.
So for this pattern we will start with a fsc chain, and work the ‘border shell’ for one side. We will then work the lace pattern along the other side and continue along this same side till we reach the width needed for our headband. We will end with a border shell pattern on this end as well. Got it?
Our stitch count for this pattern is in multiples of 3
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc (in multiples of 3) as needed for the length of your headband. Turn.
Row 2 : (Border shell pattern) :
sc in the 1st fsc ;
sk next fsc ; 3 dc in the next fsc ;
(sk next fsc ; sc in the next fsc ;
sk next fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till the end. Turn.
Fasten off your yarn and re-attach it to the other side or bottom of your fsc chain. We will now work the lace pattern ending with this same border to finish our headband.
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