Sweet Nothings Crochet: AN EASY HEADBAND 2

photo of the full Easy Headband 2 by Sweet Nothings Crochet. This blog has a video tutorial for this project

AN EASY HEADBAND 2

Quickly on the heels of the easy headband from a few days back, let’s whip up another cute easy one today, shall we? Come along and let’s have some fun

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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Indian) Anchor knitting cotton with a 1.75 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

Instructions using U.S terminology

The other day I made the easy headband working with a thicker Nako Saten acrylic yarn as well as this Anchor knitting cotton – so go ahead and try it with different thicknesses of yarns to get different stunning results.

Once again for today’s headband we work across the width of the headband.

So while working side to side each row, we’re just working the width and each row will add to the height or length of the headband.

We start at one end working with “V” sts and work along the length till we reach the end. Easy enough, huh?

Please read through till the end of this blog for different ideas for this pattern as well as creating it into a headband or belt.

Get the video for this creation at https://youtu.be/duqtEdkLRoI

Today we will use a “V” st which is (2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc) all in the same st.

For our pattern today we will work 2 “V”-sts together.

Start Row 1 : with 7 ch.

Turn and work 1 dc in the 4^th ch from hk ;

ch 1, work 2 more dc in that same 4^th st ;

sk the next 2 ch ;

and work a “V”-st in the last ch. Turn.

(2 “V” sts next to one another)

Now here’s where you work in your creativity.

You can either start the next row with a turning chain (tc) and work the “V” st in that 1^st ch-sp, or you can sl-st into that 1^st ch-sp , work a tc and then work the “V”-st in that same 1^st ch-sp. Either way we’re working only in the ch-sps of the earlier “V”-sts all the way down the row till the end. Got it?

Row 2 : “V”-st in the 1^st ch-sp of the 1^st “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st. Turn.

..and that’s it.. Our pattern done.

photo of the easy Headband 2 by Sweet Nothings Crochet

Rep Row 2 till you have the length needed for your project.

When you reach the end, you could opt to work 2 sc in each ch-1 sp and finish off. You will then have ended with 4 sts which will match the 4 sts at the start and be an equal join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now that’s the pattern and here’s what you can do with it to make it into a headband.

1) You can start just as is given above and work all the way to the end, making a tape lace. When you get the length needed (which is the circumference of the head of the person you are making it for – and if you do not know the head size, check the chart given above at the start of this blog), you just fold it in half, join the ends and you have a headband ready to go.

2) Or you do not join ends, but add in a button to not only make it seem a bit different but also for convenience. The show button can stand on one side of the head and make the whole creation look oh, so different.

3) Or you start by attaching a rubber band and then work the “V”-st pattern for the length (minus the stretch or length of the elastic rubber band) and then attach your lace to the other end of the rubber band. This way the rubber band is neatly secured and will be at the bottom of the head. The advantage here is that it stretches nicely and fits around the baby’s head without a fuss. Of course, this also means that this headband will be usable for longer (and for an older child as well) thanks to the stretch. The difficulty here is that you need to figure the stretch of the rubber band, and reduce that much in the length. The elasticity of the rubber band will cover for the rest of the ‘length’. Ensure that you get a good rubber band, and one that is ‘coated’ or ‘covered’ (not the plain rubber band that may catch the young girls short hairs on the nape of her head).

4) I’d said we can make this into a belt too – and here’s how. Now instead of adding the rubber band to start, go ahead and add your belt buckle. Then go ahead and follow the pattern all the way to the end, ensuring that you add about 6” more than your round waist measurement. The other end has 2 “V”-sts that may not go through easily through your belt buckle – so if you first finish it off with a set of sc and then I’d suggest you work a sc/hdc or dc-4 tog to hold all four stitches together and get a closed finish and a pointed (of sorts) end that you can feed through your buckle easily. This is an optional finish – if you can feed it through without struggling with a 4-tog finish .. Great! Of course for a belt, you need to add in a small loop that you can feed the free belt end into – but then that goes for all belts. I’d work a chain around the belt and with a slim belt like this, that should work. Ensure that you stitch your chain down from the back of the belt for convenience.

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Attaching the rubber band :

photo detail of how I've attached the elastic rubber band to the back of the headband

This is not a big deal & I do hope you've seen the video that it ain't a big deal ;)

All I did was start with tying the yarn to the rubber band and then working 4 sc into the rubber band securing it well.

I then started with the 1^st “V”-st in the 1^st sc ; sk the next 2 sc and worked my 2^nd “V”-st in the 4^th sc or the last sc.

First row done, you just then carry on with the pattern as given.

To end, you just work attach the other end of the rubber band, work 4 sc again at the other end and fasten off.

Glue both ends down well after you have weaved in the ends.

Finally, run a bit of your yarn in the middle of the rubber band just to tighten and secure it, but that’s almost an obvious thing that you’d do even without my mentioning it.

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Right then, back to the pattern sheet.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Block as per yarn requirement, if needed.

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https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/11/chained-belt.html