Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED BLING SLING

SHELLED BLING SLING - crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

A really cute sling bag that you can easily bling up ! I saw a really neat lacy, shell-like pattern that was irresistible – so I didn’t bother resisting.. and as you’re here too, guess this has piqued your fancy as well.

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Inspired by one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net and using the pattern chart as basic inspiration, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

The Inspiration

Materials used : polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; zipper ; two black wooden buttons for the flap and a few silver beads or pearls ; bag handle ; buckle.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.

The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

General material info : Polyester silk purse yarn is available only in India. It is a 4-ply thickness.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to work on this project. You can make it to any size

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So let’s quickly analyse what we’re going to do here.

We start our project at the bottom (base) of bag and then work our way up to the top.

We will then work a flap and two straps for our bag, before adding bling (if you so feel like it).

As mentioned before, you can make this to any size. Just work your project in multiples of the stitch count given, and work it to any length and width you desire.

PART 1 : BASE AND SIDES

Our stitch count is in multiples of 5 .

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start with as many fsc, in multiples of 5 , for the width of your bag.

Note : I urge you to try the fsc start for a good finish, but if you are still struggling with it, start with chains in multiples of 5 plus 1 and work the 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk.

Ensure that at the end of that first row, you count your stitches and have the stitch count in multiples of 5.

Right, so we will now round off our base of our bag.

So we start by working first on the top of this first fsc row ;

then going around the sides of the fsc ;

and then bottom of the same fsc ;

and finally working along the bottom of the fsc chain ;

we then end where we started, so we make this 1st row into a round.

So say you start off with 10 fsc - you will work these 10 fsc, then turn 90°and work 3 dc on the side , and then then turn 90° and go around to the bottom of the fsc and work dc’s all along this length too and then turn then turn 90° for the last time and work 3 dc on that 1^st st again.

Check the video below to see how to work an fsc row into a round.

Thereafter we will work our project in rounds.

In case this video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/DwkKgtGaJMY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Base Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and each fsc till end ;

then turn 90° and work 5 dc in that end fsc ;

then turn 90°again and work dc along the bottom end of each fsc till end ;

then turn 90° for the last time and work 3 dc in that end fsc again.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

You now have your first round.

In case the video does not open, go to https://youtu.be/xJApMJyrsiY

Note : Now our pattern is in repeats of five – so before you move on from this round, please check that your stitch count matches – else tweak it just a bit and add/remove stitches to make up the required number of stitches.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Base Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Continue working in rounds till you have a base that is wide / high enough for you. I worked about till my base was about 2.5-3”.

Note : Now for my base, during lining, I made my base flat (adding a stiffener and then lining it) so that the bag ‘sits’ flat ... So just an idea before you complete this base bit.

For convenience, I am restarting counts from Round 1 for the pattern now.

Pattern Round 1 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pattern Round 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk next dc, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

sk next dc, sc in next dc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Pattern Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and sc, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1 and hdc, sk next 2 dc, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

(You are now in the centre of that last ch-2 sp, and we will start right here for next round)

Pattern Round 4 : 5 dc in the 1^st ch-2 sp ;

sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;

*sk next dc, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

sk next dc, sc in next dc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

and can you believe that you have finished one pattern repeat already?

Rep Rounds 3 and 4 till you have a project of the length you desire, ending with Round 3.

Note : I cheated with my beads, and added them after I'd lined the bag - attaching them directly onto the lining because my client wanted them. If you decide you want to add beads too, you could cheat as well 😂

.. or you could add them in the sc after the 5-dc set.

How to add beads : here

How to work with beads in crochet : here

To end off and give that edge some stiffening, the designer has done 2 rounds of dc – so if you would like that finish, you will work 1 dc in each of the 1^st 3 dc, and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp all around, joining with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

In the following (last) round, you will work one dc in each dc all around.

Now I’ve made a slight change here, and done 5 finish rounds.. so the first 2 rounds as above, then in the next round, I’ve skipped every 5^th st and done a ch-1 there, to give small ‘holes’ all around.

In the next round, I’ve done a dc in each dc, and 1 dc in the ch-1 sps all around, and finally topped it all off with a dc in each dc till end.

In that 3^rd round (where I’ve made my ch-1 holes), I’ve run my strap / handle / cord through. (Links on how to the easiest I-cord you'd every find! .. check link above).

Of course, you could just get yourself a nice shiny blingy handle as well and save yourself the bother of a cord.

Now the designer has made a flat strap – so you’d like you can make that too.. with a long fdc chain to start (depending on the length of strap / handle) you desire, and then dc in each dc till end ; repeating dc rows till you have a strap width desired. You will need to make two such straps.

One can also start with say 5 fdc, and then just work on these dc’s all the way up making the strap this way, 5 dc’s at a time – but (a) I feel there will be too much stretch in this type of start, and (b) no matter how neat and experienced you are, the edges of the 1^st dc’s on each alternate row stick out.

That said, these are the options for you .. so have fun and be creative.

The designer has then used belt buckles to join her straps down, but once again I’ve decided to tweak it a bit – so options and decisions for you yet again.

PART 2 : FLAP :

For the flap, we’ll work it as a separate unit and then attach it to one side of our bag.

Instead of the long flap, you could decide to make a thinner button closure. Get inspired.

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/oocVo-ZNIcM

.. and I also have an idea for a different button... made with a pebble.

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/h_NBm9dlE9c

But if you want to do what I have, with the larger flap, then come along here..

We start with the semicircular end, and then work up the flap to make the rectangular bit.

Start with a 7 dc in that circle. Turn.

Do not pull tight and do not make it a circle – allow it to stay semicircular and we’ll now back and forth in rows.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ; 5 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

rep *to* till end ending with 2 dc in last dc. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

(dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next dc) ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* 3 times ;

(2 dc in the next 2 dc ; 3 dc in the next dc) ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

We’ve done our semicircular end, so now to work the other part of the flap, we’ll turn and work in a rectangle.

Next row : Turning your work at 90°, evenly pick up dc’s all along this end. (which is the flat portion of the semicircle).

So I picked up 2 dc’s in each dc, and then 1 dc in the ‘magic circle’ bit. Turn.

Next row :

dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Rep this dc row till you have a flap of the length you desire.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finish off your project by attaching in the straps, or weaving in the cord (if you’ve done the ch-1 sps like I have) ; attaching the flap and then maybe blinging it by attaching some buttons onto the flap.

For further bling, I’ve attached on flat silver beads in the centre of each ‘hole’, accentuating it.

Check below for lining, adding zipper and making a bag cord instructions.

Easiest I-cord : here

How to line a bag : here

How to attach a zipper : here

I have a few beads left and am wondering if I should add on a few to the strap.. hmmm.. let’s see... and let's get a quick dekho into the lovely interior of the bag.

I have , as usual, had my bag lined with lovely silky satin to give it this finished end product.

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If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/zeeba-coin-purse.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/easy-squared-pouch.html