ALL FOR MAYA, OUR “DINGO”
Maya is a beautiful, extremely intelligent dog that my “lawful” sister and (lawful..yes, that’s what happens when someone marries your brother, right?) and nieces have rescued from a shelter in Brisbane… and we swear she has some Dingo blood in her..
Maya (and my sister-in-law) have enrolled in the local USAR program (Urban Search & Rescue) and you can get all the info (or dirt) on it right here. https://dirtonthedingo.wordpress.com/
Maya basically runs the house. That said, which pet doesn’t ?? And we love her to bits.. and then some..
I was making toys for another kitty cat and thought I’d make something ‘useful’ for Maya too.. well, not so much *for* Maya, but for the hard-working two-leggeds who look after her. This cute little bag will house all the bio-degradable bags that her walkers use to pick up after her – and as it’s cute too, one will probably not mind doing the walking with her too.
I am also making a little “dress”.. not sure if Maya will like anything frilly – she’s quite a tomboy and loves to run.. gosh, does she love to run.. and she does have superb God-given coat – but I love this one.. so let’s see how long she tolerates wearing it.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some of our lovely Indian unbranded 4-ply knitting cotton & some Vardhaman acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
This is the fpdc stitch worked over 2 stitches together. View the video at https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI
bpdc : Back Post Double Crochet : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One bpdc complete
Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
fpdc : Front post double crochet
bpdc : Back post double crochet
fpdc 2-tog : Front post double crochet 2-together
MAYA’S CLEAN-UP BAG
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So the pattern is well written and has pictures to follow along with.
The only thing that I thought deserved explanation was when making the back round.
So Round 6, you work in the first 30 dc and then a ch-10 over the last dc.
Round 7 just says dc in the 40 dc, and this should read dc in the 30 dc and each ch of the next ch-10 sp.
The second thing I’d like to add here is the joining of the back and front rounds.
In Round 5, we work only in the back loops to give a lovely edge to our work.
For the other half, we only work Rounds 1 - 4.
So to join these two halves, we can join with an embroidery needle as suggested, or hold both halves of our work together (there are an even 40 dc in each section) and then sl-st between both halves to join.
So you pass your hook from the back loop of one section (section held closest to you) into the front loop of the other section.
This way you get an edge as well, and this (I thought) defines both back and front halves with a neat set of dc rounds in between.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Join-as-you-go joining method : https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk
Small additions and explanations that do not deter from the fact that this is a splendid pattern.. and kudos to the lovely Linda Permann for offering this one up for free.
And I thought I was done with Maya stuff.. but hah! Can one ever do just one thing for a cute pet.. naah.. so here’s a lovely coat for her coat.. Brisbane does get some cold and wet days
MAYA’S COAT
Inspired by http://www.knotyournanascrochet.com/2013/04/small-dog-crochet-jumper.html , and https://www.pinterest.com/pin/170433167124382958/
Before we head off to the pattern, let’s talk about it.
So the two inspirations are the buttoned pink coat and then the cute blue n yellow frilly one.
For practical reasons, I love the buttoned one.. and then I just love the frills.. so hmmm.. let’s combine them.
So we will start with a row of fdc and work from the front and work down to the lower stomach (or nearer the back?).
It doesn’t really matter which end you start from, but there’s a gradual increase that one needs to factor in as our pattern grows to accommodate the stomach, so I chose to work it this way.
If you decide to do the lacy floral collar, then you can use the other side of the fsc to work that in later.
So our coat will need an opening for the front paws, but we will stop before the back paws, though there will be a frilly back piece over that section, that goes all the way to the back – near tail.
We will need the following measurements for our project :
a) Length from neck (or collar) to the back - start of tail
b) Length from neck to the forelegs / front paws
c) Length from neck to the back legs / back paws
d) Round neck (collar)
e) Round stomach
Start with an odd number of fsc equal to the Round Neck.
Row 1 : ch 1, dc in the 1st fsc ;
*bpdc in the next fsc ; fpdc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Now as my dingo is a larger dog, I am going to do a largish collar bit – and am repeating this pattern row.
If you’re making this for a smaller animal, skip this row.
Row 2 : ch 1, dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc in the next st ; bpdc in the next st* ;
Rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 : hdc in the 1st dc ; hdc in each st till end. Turn.
Row 4 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in each st till end. Turn.
Increase row : hdc in the 1st hdc ;
2 hdc in the next hdc ;
hdc in each hdc till the 2nd last hdc ;
2 hdc in the same second last hdc ;
hdc in the last hdc. Turn.
Now here’s where we will part ways for a bit.
Depending on whether you’re making this for a small or large dog, you will do alternate rows of Row 4 and the Increase Row till you
reach the front of the front paws.
This is where we will need to make a small opening for the paws to come through.
Once done, you continue without increase till it reaches till the front of the back paws.
Just for a difference, I’ve decided to give the back end a little frilly bit with a shelled pattern.
This border does not go around the bottom, but is only across the top of the coat. Here I’d suggest you re-measure the dog to see that you only get this border across the top (side to side)
Our border repeat count is in multiples 7 + 4
Border Row 1 : dc in the 1st st ;
sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st ;
*sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st ;
sk next 2 sts , 5 dc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
sk last 2 sts and dc in the last st. Turn.
Border Row 2 : sc in the 1st st ;
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
sc in the last st. Turn.
Border Row 3 : 3 dc in the 1st st ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
3 dc in the last st. Turn.
Border Row 4 : sc in the 1st st ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next sc ;
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc ; sc in the next sc* ;
Rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc in the last st. Turn.
Border Row 5 : dc in the 1st st ;
sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Rep Border Rows 2 - 5 once more (for a larger dog, and depending on how far back you want the frilly bit to come. Ensure that it does not go under your pet, as that part will get dirty all the time and will now allow free movement for the lovely waggy tail)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
We need to attach a button placket for the coat.
So decide which side will hold your buttons as well as the size of that button first.
As we’re going to attach the buttons on the coat that goes in the under side (belly-side) of your pet, I’d suggest a larger sized button that is easy to button on without too much of a pet ‘n mamma struggle
Re-attach your yarn at one end of the coat and run a row of sc all the way down one side of the coat. I then did a row of hdc all the way back in each sc till end.
For the “holes”, I first measured out the button placket, and then decided how many buttons and where they’d be placed.
I then figured out which was the stitch I’d miss and placed markers in those stitches, ensuring that they are neatly and evenly spaced.
In the following row, do a hdc in each st, and to sk the marked st, do a ch-1 at that marked stitch.
The ch-1 will give you the button hole you need to slip your button in.
Now IF your button is a larger one, and your yarn does not have as much flexibility and ‘give’ or stretch, please check and do a dc in each st instead of a hdc.
I then worked a row of hdc in each st and a hdc in the ch-1 sp as well all the way down.
The final row was 1 hdc in each hdc till end.
This was for the ‘holed’ side of the button placket.
For the other side, repeat all these rows, but do not miss a stitch in the 2nd row (or 1st hdc / dc row).
Ensure that both sides of the placket have the same number of rows.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach buttons on the button flap for the coat.
Slip this cute coat on your pet and watch him / her enjoy the warmth and love that has gone into your creation.
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I’ve made
one other thing for a pet that I’ve written up about.. so for a quick dekho of
that here’s that link. This link has a
blanket as well as kitten toys.
.. and some bag pattern ideas ..
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