SMASHING DIAGONAL CLUTCH PURSE
I’ve used this pattern before for a lovely
reversible diagonal spectacle case. This
is such a neat pattern, and has so many uses, that it’s so great! I just love it and can’t wait to see what
else I can come up with.
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The original pattern here is for a dishcloth, so
let’s see how we’re going to turn that pattern into a purse!
Right then, let’s see what we can do with this
pattern.
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India. The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced Skill level
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
dtrc : Double triple crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
Stitches used :
Single crochet back loop only (sc-blo) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Extended single crochet (e-sc) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For this smashing diagonal clutch purse, I’ve
used the
This pattern works from one corner, increasing
one stitch on each side till you have a neat square and you have diagonals
running across, which looks super fantastic.
So here’s how you start your work. First decide what kind of a clutch purse you
are going to make. Please also note that
a diagonally worked project has superb stretch.
1. Do
you need it to just work two sides and then have magnet clasps on the top, in
which case you work just one rectangle and fold it in half ; or
2. Do
you want a flap over the top, and are going to use it with a zipper along the
inside and have it soft and crushy.. in which case you will need to work a
longer rectangle, and then fold it into thirds, in such a way that just over
two-thirds makes up the lower half of your purse, and the last bit is the
flap that comes over the top.
Easy enough right? May I suggest that you draw your dimensions ,
or easier still , cut it out on a piece of paper, to keep it handy to measure
against. As we are working along a
diagonal, it is a little confusing to keep tabs on the fast growing width and
length.
This is if you are going to fold in half and attach the magnet catch on the top
This is if you are going to fold in thirds and have a flap over the front
Now here’s where the fun begins. If you continue with the pattern, you will
get a square project. For our bag, we
need a rectangular piece. So here’s what
I did.
I made the pattern exactly as suggested by the
designer and till one side of my project was about 8.5 – 9”.
I then worked the decrease as suggested by the
designer for one side.
This means that I then stopped one side at the
8.5-9” mark and worked the sc 2-tog decrease at this edge on every row,
while I still continued to increase (i.e working 2 sc in the end sc) along the
other side on every row , making the square into a rectangle.
Continue to work your increases only along
one side, and work the sc 2-tog along the other end and magically your square
becomes a rectangle.
Now that you are working only along one side,
you will need to to work it for as long you want your purse… as you have
already decided this just before you started.
Once you have your project the length and width
needed, then all you need to do is fasten off, weave in ends and get it
stitched up into a bag.
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up.
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If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
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