YET
ANOTHER LOVELY SHELLED POTLI BAG
This
is a pattern I’ve written about two years back and at that time I’d made a flat
clutch purse. I am using the same
pattern now to make a potli bag.. Smart gurrrl, right ;) !
Throw
in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an evening
out..or just to carry your mobile phone and keys. The beauty of this bag is that you can make
it in just about any size you want.
So
what’s a Potli ? {poTali} = SWAGis the Hindi
equivalent for Swag bag.
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no
drama here..let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
Thank you for joining me.
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General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at
https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S
terminology)
lp(s)
: Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc
: Double crochet sp :
Space
sl-st
: Slip stitch ch
: Chain
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
yo
: Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
As
usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what
we’re working on today. For our potli /
swag bag, we’re going to start with a circular base and then work on a small
edge (optional) as we finish our base.
We will then continue working in rounds for the top / sides of our bag.
We
will work our complete project in rounds.
You
can add beads into your project at any time.
I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to
add beads in). Work a small swatch with
just the pattern for the ‘sides / top’ of the bag, and calculate where you want
your beads. One pattern repeat for the
sides will also give you the ‘length’ that you’re gaining, so you will be able
to calculate how many rows of shelled pattern you need to reach the top, and
accordingly you will be able to work in how many beads you need.
As
always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for ..jus in
case.
Oh,
and you can decide to work two colours in as well.
So mix n match colors, throw in beads and
voila, you will have an exclusive creation.
Do remember to pay it forward and credit my blog for the inspiration and
pattern, won’t you.. Karma and all that blah!
Right
then..let’s now waste any more time.
Part
1 : Base of the Potli bag
Start
with a magic circle and 8sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close the
magic circle.
You
can work with sc / hdc or dc for the rounds.
It does not matter which stitch you choose, as we are only interested in
reaching the diameter needed for your base.
Remember though that I am writing this pattern for working with hdc, so
if you decide to use any other stitch, you will need to work as many rounds as
needed for your project accordingly.
Round 1 :
2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
2 hdc in the 1sthdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next
hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last hdc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1sthdc.
Round 3 :
2 hdc in the 1sthdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next
hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1sthdc.
Round 4 :hdc
in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 5 : 2 hdc in the 1sthdc ;
*hdc in the
next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1sthdc.
Rep
Rounds 4 and 5, increasing by 8 sts every alternate round, ending with Round 5,
till you have a base of the size you want for your bag.
Remember that
increasing every alternate round means that your bag base grows slower.
So
if you want a faster diameter growth, then work the increase round every
round. This will also give a flatter,
softer finish for the base. See what
works best for you with your yarn.
Next round : In this last round for the base, sc
in back loops only (blo), so that we get an edge that will not just look good,
but also hold the bag base down flat.
If
you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please end with
Round 4 or 5 and start with the pattern for the sides / top.
Part
2 : Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag
For
the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase in our
shelled pattern.
For
convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from
1. Please do not confuse these
rounds with the numbers above. For all
instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your
bag only.
Here
are a few ideas before we start on the shelled pattern for the sides. If you decide to work in one colour all
through, then you just work without any yarn change.
If
you decide to change colours, then you will work with the yarn color change(s)
given below. I am giving you an idea of
how to change colours. What you do (or
what I have done) is totally up to you ;) .
Create and enjoy!
Round 1 : (Using
same colour as base) :
sc the 1st st ;
*sk next 3 sts, 5 dc in the
next st ; sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st* ;
rep
*to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
If
changing colours, attach your alternate or 2nd colour yarn now.
Round 2 : (Using
alternate colour) :
5 dc the 1st sc ;
*sk
next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; sk next 2 dc , 5 dc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Change
back to the base colour or 1st colour again.
Round 3 : (Using
same colour as base) :
sl-st past the 1st 2 dc , sc in the 1st
next dc ;
*sk
next 2 dc, 5 dc in the next sc ;
sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Repeat
Rounds 2 and 3 till you have a potli of the height / width you desire.
And
that’s our pattern with two colours of yarn for you.
You can choose to add beads and you can also
end with a picot on your last round.
Another
twist will be to change the number of rows you work before changing
colors. So go ahead, explore, create and
be different.
Before
you end off, see if you are able to thread the rope through the spaces of the
shells, else work a row of holes in the last round.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
So
we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; line our bag and voila!
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Have a great day and see you soon.
If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
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