CUTE
LIL SLING BAG
This
is a really quick project for a friend’s grand daughter – the project itself
will not take too long, methinks.. it’s the lining and the zipper that are
going to take their toll on me ! LOL
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
I
saw a set of photographs on the net, and am working off those to create this
lil sling bag. Here are my notes as I
make my own project.
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at
https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s)
: Loop(s) sc
: Single crochet
dc
: Double crochet sp :
Space
sl-st
: Slip stitch ch
: Chain
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
yo
: Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
As
usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what
we’re working on today.
For
our lil' bag, we will work three rounds.
Two similar rounds will make up the front and the back of your bag, and
the third round will become your flap.
Easy enough, right?
You
can add beads into your project at any time.
I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to
add beads in). Add in your beads before
you start your work, and also do a rough calculation of where you’d like them…
then just add them on as you go.. else do what I have done several times, and
*cheat* - add them in after you have done your project!
As
always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for .. jus' in
case.
I
am planning on using a lot of my stash up and using as many colours as I can
find. As you can work this project in
one colour as well, I am just going to let the colour choice be part of your
creative process.
Right
then.. let’s now waste any more time.
Part
1 : Front & back of our bag
Make
two
Start
with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the magic circle.
Round 1 :
dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
In
the following round, we will use a dc 3-tog.
Round 2 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st
ch-1 sp ;
(ch
2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 3 dc in the same 1st
ch-2 sp ;
3
dc in the next ch-2 sp and in each ch-2 sp all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In
the following round, we will work a dc 2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Round 4 :
sl-st past the 1st dc ,
2
dc in the next dc (which is the centre dc of this 3-dc set) ;
*ch
1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 3 dc in the same 1st
ch-1 sp ;
3
dc in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc , dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
ch
1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 dc)
Round 7 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 2 sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
(sk
next dc , 2 sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(72 sc)
Round 8 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(108 dc)
Once
again in the following round, we will work between dc and not in the
dc
Round 9 :
2 dc in the sp between the 1st and 2nd dc ;
(sk
next 2 dc , 2 dc in the sp between the last 2 dc and the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(108 dc)
Fasten
off.
At this point, I have a circle of 9” diameter which I think is just right for
my project, so I am stopping now.
Go
ahead to work on the 2nd half of the project.
Part
2 : Flap for the bag
For
the flap, we will start with a flower at the centre, and then work the flap
around the flower.
Start
with a magic circle and 8 sc in that circle.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close the magic circle.
Round 1 :
dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
First round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(hdc
; dc ; hdc) all in the 1st
ch-1 sp ;
rep
(to) in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
The
next petal is worked over two rounds.
In
the next round will be worked from under the earlier round, so we will work a front
post stitch around the dc of Round 1, and making a preparatory round for the
next round of petals.
To
get to the dc on Round 1, work a ch 1 first, and this does not count as a
stitch, and it will be hidden by the petal later, so don’t worry.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Round 3 :
Second round of flower petal : ch 1 ;
fpdc
around the dc of Round 1 ;
*ch
2, fpdc around the next dc of Round 1* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 :
Second round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
(hdc
; 3 dc ; hdc) all in the 1st
ch-2 sp ;
rep
(to) in the next ch-2 sp and in each ch-2 sp all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
The
last petal is again worked over two rounds.
This time we will work the fpdc
around the dc of Round 3.
Round 5 :
Third round of flower petal : ch 1 ;
fpdc
around the dc of Round 3 ;
*ch
3, fpdc around the next dc of Round 1* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 :
Third round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(
sc ; hdc ; 5 dc ; hdc ; sc) all in the 1st
ch-2 sp ;
rep
(to) in the next ch-3 sp and in each ch-3 sp all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We
have finished with the petals of our flower and we will start with the rest of
our flap. Once again, we will work the
fpdc around the dc of Round 5.
Round 7 :
ch 1 ; fpdc around the dc of Round 5 ;
*ch
5, fpdc around the next dc of Round 5* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 9 dc in the same 1st
ch-5 sp ;
9
dc in the next ch-6 sp and in each ch-5 sp all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rounds 9 - 10 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all
around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 11 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 12 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , 3 dc in the same 1st ch-1
sp ;
3
dc in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
At
this point, the flap has a diameter of 7” and I am going to stop now. Just for contrast, I worked a round of sc all
around to finish the flap.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Part
3 : Finishing
To
join the front and back, use one of the joining techniques given below.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at
https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
If working with different coloured yarns, work with a contrast here, so that it looks like a pattern, while holding the bag together at the same time
So to join the base of the bag, place your two (bag) circles down, and place 2 markers that will be the mark the opening on either side, and then you will join the two parts together.
Now that you have the lower part of the bag done, we can attach the flap.
Fold the flap just above the flower, and pin the lower part of the flap circle down along the back of the bag. Then attach it down.
For the strap, use one of the methods given at the top of the blog. I have used two colours of the bag for the strap.
What I have done is work an fsc chain for the length needed, and then work sl-st or sc down the fsc chain using the other colours. Before starting the chain and at the end, I have left a small length of yarn, which becomes our tassel.
For the rest of the tassel, just decide on the length you want for the tassel,
and then cut a length of the coloured yarn double that length. So say you want the dangling tassel to be 4”
total, you will cut a yarn of 8” length.
Holding all your tassels together, fold in half and run a bit of yarn
through the centre of them all. Once
they are held together in a bundle, you can neatly attach them along the side
of the bag
Use
one of the methods given at the top of the blog to line and add a zipper to
your bag as needed.
Attach
on a button and you’re ready to go.
Oh,
you could add a few beads after I completed the project and I love the end
product.
We’re
ready to show off this lovely creation too.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Have a great day and see you soon.
If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks for taking the time to stop by. Do tell me what you think. Cheers