INTERESTING MARKET BAG 1
I have been stashing these skeins of macramé
yarn for a while. A recent cleaning bug
got a-hold of me, and I decided to finally do something with this. I just made a tote-like bag with a similar
yarn and loved how that turned out – so this is the next (hopefully successful)
experiment with this set of yarn.
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Once again, I request you to please read
through all my detailed instructions before you pick up your hook. My notes will give you an idea of where you
are headed. Cheers.
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
For Non-Indians : The macramé
yarn is available only in India (to my
knowledge). This yarn has a 6 / 8-ply thickness.
General yarn info : You can make this project with any yarn
and a hook that suits it.
Skill level : Easy
to Intermediate.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
(Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)
sc
: Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp
: Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
For today’s
interesting market bag, we will start from the bottom and work our way all the
way up to the top.
While you can
start with any number of stitches, let’s start with 20 fsc
Start : with 20 fsc.
Turn.
In the
following row, we will start working all the way till the end, then turn and
work around the bottom of the fsc chain.
So while we start with a row, we will end up working in rounds.
For the base, I
have decided to work only in one colour
We will not
be joining at the end of every round, but work in spirals.
We
will place a marker to mark that last / 1st st. So at the end of every round, we will move
the marker up.
The idea of not joining is so that you get a neat flow of colours but it is not crucial to the pattern - so in case this is
At the end of
the following row / round, we will work 3 sts in the end st. Place a marker in the centre (or 2nd
st) of the 3-st set. For our increases
thereafter, we will work 2 sts in the st on either side of that centre
marked stitch. Got it?
Part 1 : Base of bag
Row / Round 1 : sc in the 1st 19 fsc ; 3 sc in
the last fsc –
(Place marker in the centre st) ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc chain ;
sc in the next 18 fsc ; 2 sc in the last
(which is also the 1st) fsc.
Place marker in the centre st)
Do not join ,
but place a marker in the last / 1st st.
As I am using a
pretty thick yarn, I have decided to work in back loops only.
I feel that this will work with my yarn, but
if you are using a thinner yarn, just work a regular sc (i.e work through both
loops)
However,
whatever yarn you are using, work the
corner 3 sc through both loops (not the back loop only), as it opens that last
stitch up too much. Got it?
Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 18 sc ;
(you should be
one stitch away from the marked stitch) ; 2 sc
in the next sc ;
sc in the next
st ;
2 sc in the
next sc ;
sc in the next
19 sc ;
2 sc in the
next sc ; sc in the last sc.
Do not join ,
but place a marker in the last / 1st st.
See what we are
doing.. slowly increasing the base without joining the end sts, so we will
create a neat spiral finish.
We will now
move our markers to the 2 sc on either sides that we have made.
So we now have a total of 4 markers – 2 on
either side of our ends.
Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ;
(sc in all the
sc till the marked sc ; 2 sc in the that
marked sc) ;
sc in the next
sts till the marked sc ;
2 sc in the
next marked sc ;
rep (to) once ;
sc in the next
sts till the 1st / last marked sc.
Do not join.
With every
increasing round, you will have more stitches at each end between markers –
just ensure that you are working the same number of stitches (in between
markers) at both ends.
Rep Round 3
till you have a base that is about 4” wide – or as wide as you think you want
it to be – let your creative juices and imagination flow.
Once you have
got the base done, we will start on the sides.
We still want a
slight shape to the bag, so I’ve moved my marker to the centre stitch.
Which is the
centre stitch at each end ?
So you have 2
markers at each end that you were increasing at, and you have some stitches in
between, right? Count off and find the
centre stitch between the 2 markers, and that becomes your centre stitch for
both ends. Got it?
Henceforth, we
will only increase at these marked stitches at each end. The pattern stays the same, but as we’re only
increasing once, let me write it out again.
Now we may have
worked several rounds, and are not *technically* at Round 4 – but let’s just
number it such for convenience.
Round 4 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(sc in all the
sc till the marked sc ; 2 sc in the that
marked sc) ;
sc in the next
sts till the marked sc ;
2 sc in the
next marked sc ;
sc in the next
sts till the 1st / last marked sc.
Do not join.
Rep Round 4 for
a few inches, till you have increased and got a circumference that is good for
the bag. Once you have the full
increase(s) done, we will be working without any further increase.
What I have
also done is just work one full colour till I was done with that hank/skein and
then add on the next colour – without checking where I was adding it – I loved
the unusualness of the colour combination.. and of course, I managed to finish
all the yarn I had stashed.. Double thumbs up
Now the “pattern”
is really simple. It shows through
because you are working in the back loop – that’s it. It also helps if you are working with
different coloured yarns.
I am going to
use three colours of yarn and going to work only in back loops. Just for kicks, I decided to work the middle
section with ch-1 sps.
So here’s what
I did for this section
Work sc in the
1st st ; *ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* all
around.
Now as we are
not joining and working in rounds, I just continued all around working the next
round with the sc in the ch-1 sps, and working the *to* rep all around. So in each ch-1 sp, I worked an sc (back
loops still) and I skipped all the sc.
I just work
this pattern all around till I finished this colour.
Then for the
last colour, I worked 1 sc in every sc and in every ch-1 sp all around for the
1st row of the last colour.
In the next and all following rows, I worked 1 sc in each sc all around – once
again, all in back loops.
Part 2 : For the handle :
1.
I
decided how wide I wanted my handle and placed two markers to mark the two end
points (so total of 4 markers – 2 for each side).
2. I then worked sc till I reached the 1st
marker
3. Now decide how long a shoulder strap / bag
handle you desire, and chain in that many chain ; sc in the 2nd
marker
4. Sc in each st till the 3rd marker
; sc in the 3rd marker and then once again the same number of chain
as you just made (for the 1st side of your strap, and sc in the 4th
marker
5. Continue working 1 sc in each sc all around,
going over the chains that you have made for the handle and then back down to
the sides of the bag to create the handle thickness
6. Work as many rows as needed around the sides
of the bag and over the handle till you get the handle as thick as you need.
7. Fasten off
Part 3 : For the bow :
I decided to add on a tiny bow onto one of
the handles.
1.
I
worked 7 ch ; sl-st in the 7th ch from hk ; 6 chain, and sl-st in
the same 7th ch from hook.
You have two loops.
2. I then worked (2 sc ; 4 hdc ; 2 sc) in the 1st
loop ; sl-st over the earlier sl-st and then (to) in the next loop. Fasten off but do not cut yarn.
3. Wrap the yarn over and around the centre of
the 2 loops to form that centre bit of the bow.
Tie off under the bow and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Part 4 : Finishing :
As I intend this to be a market bag, I do not
plan on lining it – but here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up
if you so decide.
Once you have got the bag neatly completed, use
the links below to work the finishing.
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