INTERESTING TOTE BAG
I had this multi coloured bag that I used for a
long time and when I was gifted this colourful bag full of slinky shiny
polyester purse yarn, I knew I had to re-create that bag in crochet.
This is my long time favourite bag, that finally started giving way at the seams, which inspired me to create today's tote.
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Materials used : About
three cones of polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 5.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; chain ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Easy
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For today’s interesting
market bag, we will start from the bottom and work our way all the way up to
the top.
While you can
start with any number of stitches, let’s start with 20 fsc
Start : with 20 fsc.
Turn.
In the
following row, we will start working all the way till the end, then turn and
work around the bottom of the fsc chain.
So while we start with a row, we will end up working in rounds.
For the base, I
have decided to work only in one colour
We will not
be joining at the end of every round.
We
will place a marker to mark that last / 1st st. So at the end of every round, we will move
the marker up.
At the end of
the following row / round, we will work 3 sts in the end st.
Place a marker in the centre (or 2nd
st) of the 3-st set.
For our increases
thereafter, we will work 2 sts in the st on either side of that centre
marked stitch. Got it?
Row / Round 1 : sc in the 1st 19 fsc ; 3 sc in
the last fsc –
(Place marker in the centre st) ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc chain ; sc in the next 18 fsc ;
2 sc in the last
(which is also the 1st) fsc. Place marker in the centre st)
Do not join ,
but place a marker in the last / 1st st.
Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 18 sc ;
(you should be
one stitch away from the marked stitch) ;
2 sc
in the next sc ;
sc in the next
st ;
2 sc in the
next sc ;
sc in the next 19
sc ;
2 sc in the
next sc ; sc in the last sc.
Do not join ,
but place a marker in the last / 1st st.
See what we are
doing.. slowly increasing the base without joining the end sts, so we will
create a neat spiral finish. (see the pattern on the right hand side of this bag - we are attempting something similar)
We will now
move our markers to the 2 sc on either sides that we have made. So we now have a total of 4 markers – 2 on
either side of our ends.
Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ;
(sc in all the
sc till the marked sc ; 2 sc in the that
marked sc) ;
sc in the next
sts till the marked sc ;
2 sc in the
next marked sc ;
rep (to) once ;
sc in the next
sts till the 1st / last marked sc.
Do not join.
With every
increasing round, you will have more stitches at each end between markers –
just ensure that you are working the
same number of stitches (in between markers) at both ends.
Rep Round 3
till you have a base that is about 4” wide – or as wide as you think you want
it to be – let your creative juices and imagination flow.
Once you have
got the base done, we will start on the sides.
We still want a
slight shape to the bag, so I’ve moved my marker to the centre stitch.
Which is the
centre stitch at each end ?
So you have 2
markers at each end that you were increasing at, and you have some stitches in
between, right? Count off and find the
centre stitch between the 2 markers, and that becomes your centre stitch for
both ends. Got it?
Henceforth, we
will only increase at these marked stitches at each end. The pattern stays the same, but as we’re only
increasing once, let me write it out again.
Now we may have
worked several rounds, and are not *technically* at Round 4 – but let’s just
number it such for convenience.
Round 4 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(sc in all the
sc till the marked sc ; 2 sc in the that
marked sc) ;
sc in the next
sts till the marked sc ;
2 sc in the
next marked sc ;
sc in the next
sts till the 1st / last marked sc.
Do not join.
Rep Round 4 for
a few inches, till you have increased and got a circumference that is good for
the bag. Once you have the full
increase(s) done, we will be working without any further increase.
Now for the
pattern – it’s actually worked just because of colour changes and working in
spirals. Each alternate row colour is
just added on without joining with a sl-st and that gives this angular line one
side that looks so darn awesome.
What I have
also done is change the point where the color changes – so each ‘set’ of color
changes was at a slightly different point and that gave it this effect.
Right then, get
to it..
Finishing :
I have attached a thick metal chain-link handle for my tote. I do not
plan on lining my bag – however here are a few
links on how you can finish your bag up if you so decide.
Once you have got the rectangle neatly
completed, use the links below to work the finishing.
a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
c) How to attach a zipper : Check this link at http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
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