THE CUTE HAT 'N BAG FOR THE PEACHILICIOUSLY DIVINE DRESS
The dress for this set
is up on an earlier blog post (titled Peachilicious! A divine dress at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2014/09/peachilicious-divine-dress.html ).
This is the pattern for
the cute little hat and bag that were part of the set accompanying the
dress.
Link to original pattern : http://www.liveinternet.Campana.mam
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Materials used : Baby wool from Woolcraft ~ 100 gms (about 1 skeins) with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size made : Head circumference : 17”
Gauge : (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = 0.8” across x 0.5” high
Stitches used :
Starting Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st :
Slip stitch
st : Stitch sk
: Skip
lp : loop hk : hook
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
There are two charts for
this pattern, and both are given here.
I’ve chosen the hand-written chart
(first chart), as it suited my requirements… and then tweaked it some.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Slip stitch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB3QNbA8Iw&t=1s
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 12 dc in that circle.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : Increase round :
2 dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all around.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 3 : 2
dc in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc ; 2 dc in next dc ;
*2 dc in next dc ;
ch 1,
sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* all
around.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : 2
dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc
;
ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* all
around.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 : (sl-st
till the 1st ch-1 sp) ;
2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, 2 dc in the next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp* ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* all around
;
ch 1, and join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 : dc
in 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp ,
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* all around
;
ch 1 and join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 7 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-1 sp, and dc in same ch-1 sp
;
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp ,
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk dc , dc in next
ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* all around
;
ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 8 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-1 sp, and dc in same ch-1 sp
;
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp ,
rep from (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, sk dc , dc in
next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep from *to* all around
;
ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Now take a quick look at
what we’re doing with this pattern so far.
We’re slowly building a diamond
shape which is coming within [the dc, ch-1, sk dc] area, and the (2 dc, ch 1, 2
dc) is going to be the outside of the diamonds.
So continue ‘increasing’
the diamond shapes as per the chart, till you have a diamond shape with 7 dc’s
(in the square bracketed area).. and we’ll catch up with this pattern again
then.
There’s also a minor
calculation you need to do right now.. as the number of lines you repeat,
depend on the yarn you’re using.
As we’re using differing yarns etc, see
how far you need to ‘increase’ – so for this, a rough check is that the circle
you’re making should roughly go around the crown of the head .. at when it
does, stop increases !! Phew!!
Now to explain what
we’re attempting to do for the decrease section.
You have the diamond
formed with the “V” stitches (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) and then the lacy section in
between (dc, ch 1).
Now as we ‘close up’ the diamond, we’re going to have
one section of the lacy bits in between the diamonds, and one section outside
as well.
Now as you and I will
have made different calculations for the increase, it’s going to be a little
difficult to explain just how many stitches to decrease .. but
I’m going to give you a general idea.
Next round : Decrease round :
sl-st into 1st ch-1 sp {between the 2 dc
“V”} ;
sk next ch-1 sp and dc
;
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp ,
rep from (to) till you’re 1 dc before the next “V” st, then sk that dc and the
ch-sp after that and rep (to) ; ch 2* ;
rep from *to* all around
;
ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp
;
rep [to] once ;
ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
So we’re trying to
reduce the “V” diamond, but increasing the lacy spaces in between, so we’ve
added a ch 2
In the Next round you will start as we did in our first increase round, by
adding a dc in this new ch 2 sp.
One side we’re doing
the decreases as in the explanation above, and for the lacy spaces in between,
you are going to use instructions from Round 2 – 8.
OK so now once you’re
happy with the decreases, (which you stop once your project goes easily onto
the forehead of the person you’re making this hat for), we will start on the
decorative brim.
Brim of hat :
Round 1 : Sk
1st dc, 2 dc in 1st ch sp ;
*sk next dc, 2 dc in
next ch-sp* ;
rep from *to* all
around.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sc
in the 1st dc and each dc till end.
Rounds 3 & 4 : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
MATCHING BAG FOR THE PEACHILICOUS SET
MATCHING BAG FOR THE PEACHILICOUS SET
This is my only project
thus far, where I am attaching a wip (work in progress) photo.
I am not happy with the
way my project has turned out with this yarn, so need to get a
different (thinner) yarn – but trying to match these colours may be … well, as
it may not happen real quick.. I thought I’d share the pattern off and then see
what I can do with my bag.
I also am a little lost
as to what the designer wants done after Round 13. There are these long ch-15’s
attached to the top of the (1st) row and then a rep of Rounds 10-13,
I think it’s meant as a flap, but as it’s going straight down (and will form a
rectangle), methinks it will overlap the front semicircular part. I am
not working that bit in for my project today.
From what I see on this
first bit of the chart, it (also) looks like the designer has only made one
side to this cuteness .. and the back of the bag is just cloth – so more
decisions for you. You could do just like the designer has – else, you go
till Round 13 for back, and then work a 2nd piece for front.
Let’s now try and make
that cute matching bag to complete this set.
Stitches used :
Small shell : (2 dc , ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same ch-sp or st.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
In case this video doesn't come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
INSTRUCTIONS FOR BAG
 |
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 36 sc.
Do not join. Turn.
Round 2 : sc
in 1st 7 sc ;
dc in next sc ; sk 2 sc, dc in next sc ;
*ch 2, dc in same
last sc ;
sk 2 sc, dc in next sc* ;
rep *to* 8 times . Turn.
(so a
total of 10 “V” made).
Now it looks like the
designer has done a really different way of making a ‘flat top’. OK.. so you’re
at the ‘top’ of your last “V” st. ch 1, and then do 2 sc into the horizontal
bar of your last dc, and then continue down to the next 7 ‘untouched’ sc (from
your 1st magic circle round), and then continue ‘up’ the 1st dc
you’ve mad and do 2 sc on that horizontal bar.. Take a quick look at the chart
below and you’ll surely understand what I am saying here.. confusing as it
sounds.
Done? Good.. so we
now have 11 sc.
Round 3 : Now
on this round, you’ll see that once again we’re going to try and extend the
flat top and then carry on with the round below..
So ch 2, small shell in
the 1st ch-2 sp ;
small shell in each ch-2 sp till end (total
of 9 small shells) ;
hdc into the 1st sc
;
ch 1 (turning chain) ,
2
sc on the horizontal bar of the hdc,
continue on and sc in each of the next 11
sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch. Turn. (total of 15 sc).
Round 4 : ch
2, medium shell in 1st small shell ;
medium shell in each small shell to end ;
hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc
in hdc (just made) ;
sc in the next 15 sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch. Turn (total of 19 sc)
Round 5 : ch
2, large shell in ch-4 sp of 1st medium shell ;
*large shell in ch-4 sp of next medium shell* ;
rep *to* till last medium shell ;
hdc in sc ;
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ;
sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2
ch. Turn
Round 6 : ch
8, sk 1st picot, sc in 2nd picot ;
*ch 8, sk next 2 picot,
sc in next picot (middle picot of next large shell)* ;
rep *to* till last large shell
;
ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in
the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made). Turn.
Round 7 : ch 8, sk
1st ch-sp ;
10 dc in 1st ch-8 sp and each ch-8
sp till end (sk last ch-6 sp) ;
ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc
(just made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch (of
the 1st ch-8 made). Turn.
Round 8 : ch
8, sk 1st ch-sp ; 10 dc in each dc till end (sk last ch-6 sp)
;
ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8
made). Turn.
Note : In
this round, the designer has gone in the ‘space’ between 2 dc, and not
in the next dc.
Round 9 : ch
10, sk 1st ch-sp, sk 1st 5 dc ;
(dc , ch 2, dc) in the
sp between this and the next dc ;
*ch 4, sk next 5 dc ,
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till
last ch-sp ;
ch 8 , sk last 5 dc, hdc in sc ;
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just
made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8
made). Turn.
Round 10 : ch
6, sk 1st ch-sp ;
small dc in the next ch-2 sp (between 2
dc’s) ;
*ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp , rep small
shell once* ;
rep from *to* till
last ch-sp ;
ch 6 , hdc in sc ;
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just
made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8
made). Turn.
Round 11 : ch
4, sk 1st ch-sp ; medium shell in the next ch-3 sp
;
*ch 1, sc in next sc , rep medium shell once* ;
rep from *to* till last ch-sp ;
ch 4 , hdc in sc ;
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2
ch (of the 1st ch-8 made). Turn
Round 12 : ch
3, sk 1st ch-sp ;
(5 dc , ch 2, 5 dc) in the next ch-4 sp
;
*ch 1, sc in next sc ,
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till
last ch-sp ;
ch 1 , hdc in sc ;
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just
made) ;
sc in each sc ;
sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8
made). Turn.
Note : Whether you’re using the
pattern to make a fully crocheted bag (i.e both back and front parts crochet)
or a cloth-based back, I’d suggest you join the two parts using the ends of
Round 12, and the picot edging can be done only on the front side.
Round 13 : ch
3, sk 1st ch-sp ;
(sk 2 dc, sc in the same dc
;
[ch 3 , sc in the next
dc ; picot and sl-st in same sc] ;
sk rep 2 dc, [to]
once in ch-sp ;
sk rep 2 dc, [to] once ; sk last 3 dc)
;
*ch 1, sc in next sc ,
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till
last 3 dc ;
ch 1 , sc in sc ; ch 15,
sk next sc , sc in next sc ;
{ch 15, sk next 3 sc, sc
in next sc} ;
rep from {to} 12 times ;
ch 15, sk next sc, sc in last sc.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends. (*) but hold on.. first read notes below
FINISHING : (*)
1.
Attach front and back halves (using stitches of Round 12)
Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
2.
If you’re making this into a sling bag, make a small strap just
before you fasten off from your last rows.
Easiest I-cord : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
3.
I’d suggest a ch from the edge of about 75-100 ch, the sl-st into
the corresponding point in the other end ; sc into the next st
(on the bag) and then sc (hdc or dc) into each ch st till the start. In
case you decide to do a dc in each st, remember to sc into two stitches on
the bag. Rep for the other strap.
4.
Before you join up your front and back, may I suggest you line
your bag for your convenience.
How to line a bag : http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
How to attach a zipper : http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
5.
Weave in all ends.
FLOWER :
Finally the designer has
made a cute little flower to go on top of the bag.
I choose to make the
same flower as we’ve made for the dress, so not making this one – but attached
here is the chart for another flower as well. The pattern is very similar
to the one we’ve done thus far – so go for it
I do hope you’ve had as
much fun making this project as I have .. making and writing it down and I do
hope you’ll join me for our next adventure with my next discovery.
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have a great day too
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