PEACHILICIOUS !! A DIVINE DRESS
This was a totally irresistible pattern – so I didn’t even bother to resist!
This pattern was shared by a friend yesterday and
one look at it and I knew this one had to get done .
Fortunately I had some lovely yarn that I thought would be perfect – just
hoping that it’s sufficient to finish all three components of this set.
Thank you for joining me.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 1.5 skeins each of 2 colours of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old
You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.
This dress can be made to any size.
Please read through all my detailed notes and check all the links as you go along.
While I do appreciate
messages when you are stuck (especially if there is a typo in the pattern
instructions), may I please request you to check instructions
thoroughly first. Thank you .
Materials used : Baby
wool from Woolcraft ~ 150 gms (about
1.5 skeins) with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; buttons ; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or Alize knitting cotton yarns as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Chest : 20” ; L : 19.5” for a one year old girl
You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.
Gauge : 5 dc across x 2 dc (high) = 1"
Gauge does not matter. I have given the gauge here only for comparison (for the yarn used and the size I've made)
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and
Abbreviations used :
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st :
Slip stitch
sc : Single crochet
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 2-tog : Double
crochet 2-together
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For today's project, I have split the pattern chart into smaller bits and added them with the rows we're working on, for your convenience.
Please scroll down to the bottom of the blog for the full chart.
The pattern is made in
two parts – first we make the yoke, and work up towards the strappy shoulders,
and then we come back to that first starting row, and go down to make the skirt.
The original pattern has
been made with a row of chain, but I’ve started with fsc. If you decide
to use chain, work one chain more than needed, and then work your first sc in
the 2nd ch from hook.
This dress can be made to suit any size - just check for the stitch counts and work according to your child's measurements.
Please check the top of this
blog for useful charts on body measurements.
Stitch count / number calculations :
a) The yoke has been made
in multiples of four and the skirt is in multiples of eight.
So start your work with the number of fsc (plus 2 for border) needed to get one half of your chest measurement, ensuring that the number is evenly divisible by eight as well.. (for your convenience later when making skirt part).
b) We will make two yoke
parts (one each for front and back), and then join the two yokes, and do the
skirt portion as one round.
c) The front part of the
yoke is a little lower than the back, so while we make the same yoke, we have a
small change for back yoke.
I'm attaching the original
chart from the designer, which I've altered a bit when making my own creation.
There is a "V" shaped pattern (made in contrast colour) on the
first row of yoke, which I did not want to make. However, if you do ..
this is the full chart.
The shoulder straps are
attachment shown with the arrows.
PART 1 : FRONT YOKE
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Row 1 : Start with fsc as instructed above. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 2 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk 3 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc ;
*ch 1, sk 3 fsc, 3 dc in
next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
sk 3 fsc, dc in last fsc. Turn
Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;
3
dc in 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk 1st 3 dc, 3 dc in next
ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk 3 dc, 3 dc in
next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
sk 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 once
more.
Row 7 : Decrease row :
sl-st in 1st dc , ch and 1st 3
dc ;
dc in 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3
dc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
2nd last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : Decrease row :
dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in
next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to*
till last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk last 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 9 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk 1st 3 dc, 3 dc in next
ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk 3 dc, 3 dc in
next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
sk 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc
in 1st dc ;
3 dc in 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3
dc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 9 and 10 once
more, or till you get the yoke size needed.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
PART 2 : BACK YOKE
Follow all instructions
as for Part 1 of Front Yoke till Row 10.
Rep Rows 9 and 10
once. Rep Rows 9 once more.
Remember to work the same number of
repeats for the back as you have for the front.
We will now make our
shoulders, so we divide here for the right and left side.
Next row : dc
in 1st dc ;
3 dc in 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3
dc in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* once. Turn.
We will continue to work
on just these stitches for a few rows, making a shoulder strap.
Now here you have a
choice.
You can either make a short strap and then attach a regular button that
you can decorate with a flower (as has designer),
OR you can attach the
‘dungaree type of button’ attachment. (Just throwing out ideas.. like I
usually do)
So working with the same
pattern as before, continue on these stitches till you have a strap that goes
from back to front and will go over the shoulder portion.
So I’ve done a total of
10 rows for the shoulder (from start).
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Repeat for the other
shoulder.
Fasten off and weave in those ends as well.
Join the
sides of the yoke, using one of the three methods given in the links / video tutorials at the top of this blog, and we will now work in continuous rounds for the skirt.
(Pics below - the left
hand side shows the extra length of the shoulder bit with the front yoke folded
down for clarity.
The right hand side pic shows front placed over back,
so you see the difference in shoulder lengths)
PART 3 : SKIRT
For the skirt part, we go back to the first fsc row and will
be working in rounds.
To do this, keep your yoke facing away from you and pick up the fsc for the skirt. Now
re-attach yarn at one corner (side) of yoke.
As mentioned before, our stitch count here is in multiples of eight.
Full original chart of
skirt attached below.
Round 1 : dc
in 1st fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc ;
*(ch 3, sk 2 fsc, dc in next fsc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
dc in
next 5 fsc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : dc
in 1st 3 dc ;
*(ch 3, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once
;
[2 dc in next dc , dc in next 4 dc]* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc
in 1st dc,
2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ;
*(ch 3, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
[dc in next 4 dc , 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc]* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : dc in
1st 4 dc ;
*(ch 4, dc in next dc) ;
rep from (to) once ;
dc in
each dc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join
with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog :
[yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo
Round 5 : dc
in 1st 2 dc , dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ;
*ch 2, 4 dc in next dc ; ch 3, 4 dc in same dc ;
ch 2, dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ;
dc in next 4 dc ; dc 2-tog in next 2 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog :
[yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 4-tog made.
Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU
Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU
Round 6 : Now
we need to get to that 1st st to dc-tog them all..
so I suggest
we TURN and sl-st in all sts, till you reach that first dc ;
then turn again, so you’re at the 2nd dc of this
starting set.
Dc 4-tog in 1st 4
dc ;
*(ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ;
ch 3, 4 dc in ch-3 sp ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch
3, sk 1st dc, dc 4-tog in next 4 dc ; sk next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 7 : (dc,
ch 3, dc) in 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk dc 4-tog , [2 dc in next dc]
;
rep from [to] once ;
ch
4, rep from [to] twice ;
sk dc, dc 4-tog ;
*(dc, ch 3, dc) on next
dc 4-tog ;
ch 4, sk dc 4-tog , [2 dc in next dc] ;
rep from [to] once ;
ch
4, rep from [to] twice ;
ch 4, sk dc, dc 4-tog* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 8 : (dc ; ch 3, dc) in 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc
;
ch 3, 4 dc in next
ch-4 sp ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ;
*ch 4, (dc, ch 3, dc) in
next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ;
ch 3, 4 dc in next
ch-4 sp ;
ch 3, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 9 : 2
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, (2 dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 4, sk dc 4-tog ;
rep
(to) twice ;
ch 4, rep (to) twice ;
ch 4, sk dc 4-tog, rep
(to) once ;
ch 3, rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 10 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; dc in
the next dc ;
*ch 4, dc 4-tog over
next 4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc in ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over next
4 dc ;
ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ;
dc in the next dc*;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 11 : dc
in the 1st 3 dc ;
ch 3, (dc in next ch-sp, ch 3 ; dc in same ch-sp)
;
ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp ;
*ch 4, sk dc-4 tog, [2
dc in next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 4, rep [to] twice ;
ch 4, sk dc-4 tog, 1 dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 3, (dc in next ch-sp,
ch 3 ; dc in same ch-sp);
ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; 1 dc in
next ch-sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 12 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next dc , (dc in next ch-sp ; ch 3 ,
dc in same ch-sp);
ch 5, sk next dc ;
*dc in the next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-sp
;
ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 4, 1 dc in next ch-sp
;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 5, sk next dc , (dc
in next ch-sp ;
ch 3 , dc in same ch-sp);
ch 5, sk next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc.
Join with sl-st to the next dc.
Round 13 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 5, sk next dc , (dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4 ,
dc in same ch-sp);
ch 5, sk next dc ;
*dc in the next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp ;
ch 5, sk dc 4-tog ; ch 5, dc in next 4 dc ;
ch 5, sk dc 4-tog , 1 dc
in next ch-sp ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch
5, sk next dc , (dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4 , dc in same ch-sp);
ch 5, sk next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
dc in next ch-sp, dc in
next 2 dc.
Join with sl-st to the next dc.
Note : Please
take a quick look at the full pattern.
You’ll see that there is this
first set of 4 dc – now as you’re adding one dc in the ch-sp just before and
after, you are skipping one dc in this 4 dc set.. so you will eventually reach
the 1st dc, which, per pattern, you’ve got to skip.. so you’re
going to wonder where the ‘dc in 1st dc’ comes from (as you’ve
got to skip that dc).. so what I’ve done is just turn my work,
sl-st into the 2nd dc (which is then our 1st d),
and then continue with pattern as written.
This will happen from this
round on – so please adjust accordingly.
Round 14 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
sk next dc , ch 5, 12 dc in next ch-sp ;
ch 5 , sk next dc , dc
in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ;
*ch 5, dc 4-tog over the
next 4 dc ;
ch 5, 1 dc in next ch-sp ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 5, sk next dc, 12 dc
in next ch-sp ;
ch 5 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp*
;
rep from *to* till end ;
dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 2 dc.
Join with sl-st to the next dc.
Round 15 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
sk next dc , ch 4, (dc in next dc , ch 1) ;
rep from (to) 10 times ;
dc in next dc ; ch 4 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp
;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog
*1 dc in next
ch-sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 4, (dc in next dc , ch 1) ;
rep from (to) 11 times ;
dc in next dc ; ch 4 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
1 dc in next ch-sp
;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog*
;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 5, dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 2 dc.
Join with sl-st to the next dc.
Round 15 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 4, sk next 2 dc & ch-sp , (sc in next
ch-1 sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 9 times
till last ch-1 sp ;
ch 4 , [sk next dc , 2
dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in next dc] ;
*2 dc in next ch-sp ;
ch
3, 2 dc in same ch-sp ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 4, sk next dc , rep
from (to) 10 times till last ch-1 sp ;
ch 4 , rep from [to] once*;
rep from *to* till end
;
2 dc in next ch-sp ;
ch
3, 2 dc in same ch-sp ;
rep [to] once.
Join with sl-st
to the next dc.
Note : Now
once again, we’ve got to do the turn, sl-st into the next dc and
ch-sp, so that we’re where we need to be for the first set of stitches.
However at the end of this round, we will try to end it in
such a way, that we do not need these repetitive turns
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Round 17 : starting
from your new position in the ch-3 sp :
2 dc in the 1st ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 8 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once
;
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 9 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp
;
ch 3, rep from [to]
once*;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
(Having used a hdc to
join, you are now right in the middle of the ch-3 sp, just where you need to be
for the start of the next round.
So you will start the next set of
stitches - 2 dc in this case - right here)
Round 18 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 7 times
till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3
sp] ;
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp} ;
rep from {to} once ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 8 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once
;
rep from {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch
1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 19 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 6 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3,
2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp} ;
rep from
{to} twice ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 7 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once
;
rep from {to} 3 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 20 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 5 times
till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3
sp] ;
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp} ;
rep from {to} three times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 6 times till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once
;
rep from {to} 4 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch
1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 21 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 4 times
till last ch-3 sp ;
{ch 3, sc in 1st ch-sp
;
sk next ch-3 sp, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp}
;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
* ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3, ) ;
rep from (to) 5 times till last ch-3 sp ;
rep from {to} once
;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp]* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch
1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 22 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 3 times
till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 3, {dc in next dc ,
ch 1} ;
rep from {to} 5 times;
dc in next dc ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once
;
ch 3, rep from (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch
1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 23 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) 2 times
till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3
sp] ;
*ch 4, {sc in next ch-1
sp, ch 3} ;
rep from {to} 5 times;
sc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once
;
ch 3, rep from (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in last ch-3 sp,
ch
1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 24 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
rep from (to) once till
last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 4, {sc in next ch-1
sp, ch 3} ;
rep from {to} 5 times ;
sc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once
;
ch 3, rep from (to) 2 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 25 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3)
;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 3 , rep [to] once ;
* ch 4, rep from (to) 5
times ;
sc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once ;
ch 3 , rep [to] once ;
ch 4, rep from (to) once ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once ;
ch 3 , rep [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 26 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3
sp ;
ch 4, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ;
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
* ch 4, rep from (to) 4
times ;
sc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once ;
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3 , rep [to] once ;
ch 4, rep from (to) once ;
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 27 : 2
dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
sk both ch 4-sps and sc, [2 dc in next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) once ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 4, rep from (to) 3
times ;
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once ;
ch 3, rep from (to) 2
times ;
ch 3 , rep [to] once ;
sk both ch 4-sps
and sc, rep [to] once ;
ch 3, rep from (to) 2 times ;
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp,
ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Round 28 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp {i.e between the 2 dc’s} ;
ch 3,
(sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ;
rep from (to) 2 times ;
ch 3, [2
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 4, rep from (to) 2
times ;
sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, rep from [to] once ;
ch 3, rep from (to) 7
times ;
ch 3 , rep from [to] once*;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, hdc and join to
the 1st st.
Round 29 to end : Continue with the same pattern as above, reducing the
pineapple as we did for the first large one.
You then can work one full
round of just ch 5’s all around.
In case you want a longer dress (and one more pineapple), you need to check the increase we made at Round 21 (for starting of the next pineapple) and then work the instructions till the end again.
As you’ll see from the
chart attached, the designer has then done a row of (dc, picot, dc) in each
ch-5 spaces all around.
I have finished my
creation with Round 28.. and just for an extra eye-catching finish, have used a
contrast coloured yarn for the last two rounds.
This contrast yarn I will
also use in the matching hat that will be in my next write up blog.
The beauty of this
lovely pineapple stitch is that you can end it anywhere and get an absolutely
super different finish
How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
PART 5 : FLOWER BUTTON
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
I have done something similar but using a pebble for the centre of the button space. Check this video below for this is a unique idea as well.
Round 1 :
Start with a magic circle, 30 dc in the circle.
(Tip : Decide on the
size of button you wish.. and make this magic circle large enough to fit that
button)
(As my yarn was too
thick for 30 dc, I made my start round with 24 dc)
Round 2 : sc
in 1st dc ;
ch 6, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc ;
*ch 6, sk 3 dc, sc in
next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to 1st st.
Round 3 : 3
hdc in 1st ch-6 sp ,
ch 3, 3 hdc in same ch-6
sp ;
*3 hdc in next ch-6 sp ,
ch 3, 3 hdc in same ch-6 sp*;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
Make two of these
buttons and attach it at the bottom of the shoulder flap / strap. If
using contrast colour for the last line of your dress, then it may be a good
idea to use the same contrast colour here too.
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and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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