AN
EASY COIN PURSE
I
found a chart for a coin purse on a Pinterest board, and with the upcoming
festive season, thought this would be an ideal gift. I have made this both as this coin purse as well as a larger spectacle case. So here are my notes for
this creation.
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General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : ~ 8.25” x 5”
Today's project has a fixed size start (which means it will have a fixed size finish)
May I suggest that you make one of this pattern and size first and then see if you want or can increase it.
Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”
Gauge is not important
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced
Stitches used :
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
How to line your bag : Check this link below
How to make a rounded cord for the handle
: View the
video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your
handbag. http://vimeo.com/88972371
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I usually work with the principle of stitch count and bag measurement. However in today's project, this is a fixed size start. May I suggest that you make one of this pattern and size first and then see if you want or can increase it.
We will start with an fdc row.
We then work till the end of that row, then work
along the vertical bar of the dc, and then turning around, we’ll work along
the bottom of our fdc chain.
The
following rows will then be worked back and forth to give it this classic shape
and effect.
Our flap will be worked in at one end as we grow the sides of our
little coin purse. How cute is this, right?
So let’s get started.
Start with
29 fdc.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
and each dc till end ;
Turn and work 3 dc in the vertical bar of the last
dc ;
Turn and we’ll work all along the bottom of the fdc
row with 1 dc in each dc till end. Turn
Note :
You may want to place a marker in the 1st of the 3 corner sts (that
we’ve worked on the vertical bar)
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till the marked st ;
2 dc in the marked dc ; 3 dc in the next dc ;
2 dc
in the next dc ;
(Move marker to the 2nd dc of this last 2
dc set just made) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till the marked st ;
2 dc in the marked st ; 2 dc each in the next 2 dc
;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc each in the next 3 dc
(Move marker to the 2nd dc of this last 2
dc set just made) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till the marked st ;
2 dc in the marked st ; 1 dc in each of the next dc
;
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the
next 2 dc ;
rep [to] 3 times
(Move marker to the 2nd dc of this last
dc of the 2 dc set just made) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till the one dc before the marked
st ;
ch 1, sk the marked st ; dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1,
sk the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the dc after the last ch-1 sp just made) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
We will use our dc 3-tog in this row.
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till 1st ch-1 sp / marked sp ;
dc 3-tog in that 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 2, sk
the next dc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last dc 3-tog just made) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till 1st dc 3-tog / marked sp ;
dc in the 1st dc 3-tog ;
[2 dc in the
next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc 3-tog] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last dc – over that last dc
3-tog) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till one dc before the marked dc ;
ch 1, sk the marked dc , dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1,
sk the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Move marker to the last dc – over that last ch-1
sp) ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn
Row 9 : dc
in the 1st dc and each dc till one dc before the marked dc ;
dc 3-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk
the next dc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Put marker away) ;
dc in each dc till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
As we have a nice flat purse right now, I’d suggest
that you line it (if desired) first and then sew the sides up.
You will then attach your button before
you’re finally done with this oh, so cute and awesome little purse.
b) When lining the bag use a different coloured lining (i.e not the same colour as the yarn you have used) so that the pattern shows through
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