JAS’s WALLET
As soon as I
saw this pattern shared by my good friend +Rajeshwari on Facebook, I knew this
one had to be made… and now.
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So we’re back
again.. and I just know we’re going to love doing this one together.
Inspired by this pattern, I will as usual share
my notes with you as I make this project.
I’ve used two colours to indicate the change of
direction, so may I suggest that you either use this pattern direct via your
computer / laptop / I-pad or if you must print, please select a B&W print to
save on colour wastage. You could easily
high-light the coloured lines for easy reading later.
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate
to Advanced skill level.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at
https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
Abbreviations
used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single
crochet
ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
dc : Double crochet
fsc : Foundation
Single Crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is a really lovely pattern, but slightly
complicated.
So if you take a look at
this pattern, you’ll see that the whole circular Catherine wheel like pattern
is made from one central ‘hole’, and this is the trickiest part of this
pattern.
Once you get the hang of it
though, you will wonder what we were worrying and fussing about.
So let’s get to it.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 + 5
Start with fsc in
multiples of 12 + 5
We use a “V”-st in this project that is (dc ; ch
1, dc) in the same st or ch-sp.
For our pattern we will start with a ch-7 round
in the middle of this row, and we will have a total of 9 dc from this ch-7
round. The 1st dc is made up
of ch-3, and then 8 dc follow.
We will turn our work back and forth several
times, and to make this easy to follow, I’ve changed colours. I hope this makes this a little easier to
follow.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st fsc ;
ch 1, sk
next fsc , “V”-st in the next sc ;
*ch
7 and sl-st into the 1st ch (making a ch-7 round in the middle of this Row)
;
Ch 3,
(Turn
and work the next set of dc into the ch-7 round just made) 4 dc in the
ch-7 round ;
sk next 5 fsc and sc in the next fsc ;
(Turn
and work the next set of sts into the ch-7 round just made) 4 dc
in the ch-7 round ;
ch 1, sk next 5 fsc , “V”-st in the next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till the last 2 sts,
sk the next fsc and dc in
the last fsc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
* ch 1, sl-st in the next dc ;
9 dc
in the next ch-7 sp ;
sk 8 dc, sl in the next dc ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st * ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 1,
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Right so let’s take a quick look at what we’ve
created.
In the middle of the first row we had a ch-7
round, and we’ve worked a total of 18 dc over two rows into that round. To keep this circle of dc’s firm, we’ve
attached them with sl-st at each end.
This is the whole pattern.. well, with a small
change as we will now move our pattern such that we work this round of dc’s in
the “V”-st for the next row.
Row 3 : dc
in 1st dc ;
* ch
7 and sl-st into the 1st ch (making a ch-7 round in the middle of this Row)
;
Ch 3,
(Turn
and work the next set of dc into the ch-7 round just made)
4 dc in the
ch-7 round ;
sc in the ch-1 sp of the “V”-st ;
(Turn
and work the next set of sts into the ch-7 round just made)
4 dc in the ch-7 round ;
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end,
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sl-st in the next dc ; 9 dc in the next
ch-7 sp ;
sk 7 dc, sl in the next dc ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st * ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 1,
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
* ch
7 and sl-st into the 1st ch (making a ch-7 round in the middle of this Row)
;
Ch 3,
(Turn
and work the next set of dc into the ch-7 round just made)
4 dc in the
ch-7 round ;
sc in the ch-1 sp of the “V”-st ;
(Turn
and work the next set of sts into the ch-7 round just made)
4 dc in the ch-7 round ;
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end,
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
And just like that, we’ve completed one pattern
repeat.
Now that wasn’t half bad , was
it?
So our repeat rows are Rows 2 – 5.
Continue these repeats till you have a purse
/ clutch of the size you want, ending with a Row 4.
We’ll meet back here shortly for the last two
rows.
2nd last row : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch 5,
sk next 4 dc , sc in the next “V”-st ;
ch 5, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in the next dc*
;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Last row : sc
in the 1st dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[sk next dc, sc in the next
ch-1 sp] ;
*sk next dc, (5 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
sc in
the next sc ;
rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
sc in the
next ch-1 sp ;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
You can finally line your bag, attach in the
zipper and you’re ready to show the world this lovely new creation you’ve made.
(Links on how to do this at the top of this blog)
b) When lining the bag use a different coloured lining (i.e not the same colour as the yarn you have used) so that the pattern shows through
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