SIMPLY EXQUISITE SHELLED CLUTCH
Wow! This one
is a beauty, and once again I thank my friend Rajeshwari for her
zillion-a-minute shares (ok.. so that’s a bit of an exxag, but she does share
some wonderful photos and inspirations)
So we’re back again..
and I just know we’re going to love doing this one together.
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Inspired by this photograph and an attached chart(but no written notes), I will as
usual share my notes with you as I make this project.
Materials used : Indian polyester cone yarn (just under two cones) with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level :
Easy to intermediate skill level.
The little flower embellishment needs patience
so be warned
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Extended Single Crochet (e-sc) : hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one
lp, yo (2 lps on hk),pull through both lps.
One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc)
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
The beauty of this pattern is that you could
work with either an dc or an e-sc. I
love the e-sc and often have replaced that stitch for the dc, as I love that it
gives you the length needed (almost same length as a dc), but is a ‘lighter’
stitch.. well, to *know* what I mean, you just gotta try it too... tee hee.
So before we head off to make our lovely purse /
clutch, let’s quick see what we’re going to do here. We will start at the base and work up towards
the top of the purse, then when you reach the length you want for your finished
purse , work the diagonal flap and finally the flower embellishment .
Our stitch count
is in multiples of 12 + 1
Start : with fsc in
multiples of 12 + 1 for the width you want for your purse. Turn.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st fsc ;
(ch 2, dc in the same fsc) ;
sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next 5 fsc ;
*sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next fsc ;
rep (to) 2
times ; sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next 5 fsc* ;
rep *to* till last 4 fsc ;
sk next 3 fsc, dc in the last fsc ;
rep (to)
once. Turn
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 4 dc in
the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & 1 sc, sc in the next 3 sc ;
*sk next sc & 1 dc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp
;
dc in the next dc ; 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & 1 sc, sc in the next 3 sc* ;
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp ;
4 dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st 3 dc ; sk next 2
dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc ;
(ch 2, dc in the same sc) ; rep (to) once ;
*sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 3 dc ;
sk next 2
dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc ; rep (to) 2 times*
rep *to* till the last 5 dc ;
sk next 2 dc , sc
in the last 3 dc. Turn
Row 4 : sc
in the 1st 2 sc ;
*sk next sc & dc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ; 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & sc, sc in the
next 3 sc*
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & sc,
sc in the last 2 sc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch 2, dc in the same sc) ;
sk next sc & 2 dc, sc in the next 5 sc ;
*sk next 2 dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc ;
rep (to) 2 times ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 5 sc* ;
rep *to* till last 9 dc ;
sk next sc & 2 dc, dc in the next 5 dc ;
sk
next 2 dc & 1 sc, dc in the last sc ; rep (to) once. Turn
and Ta da.. we’ve successfully completed one
pattern repeat.
Now here comes your decision time.
What shape do you want for your purse and how
long do you want each side?
The pattern is being worked side to side
presently, and this represents the width.
As we work our pattern, we are going to be increasing the length.
Here’s what the designer has done. After
deciding the length (say 5”) per side, she has worked a total of 10” to
start. Thereafter, she has started decreasing
the pattern to get this slanted front flap.
1. So
first you will need to decide how long you want each side and whether you want
to follow this design as well
2. OR
would you like to make just twice the length you want per side, and then add a
zipper along the top and be done with your purse?
3. OR
work 2.5 times the length and then use that last extra (0.5) to be the straight
line flap.
So whatever you decide, work the pattern till
the point and we’ll meet back here shortly for the diagonal flap.
If you are working 2.5 times the length and not
the diagonal, then you will get a cute scalloped finish, which is also really
trendy.
Rep Rows 2 – 5 for as long as you wish your
purse length, ending with Row 4.
And we’re back.. we’ve got this rectangular
shelled piece done, and we’re going to work on the flap. If you are going to keep the flap flat, then
you will first decide how long you want your flap, fold that bit up first, and
then divide the remaining section into half.
(See diagram)
In case you are working on the diagonal pattern,
carry on to the instructions below.
Diagonal decrease ideas :
Before we start on the decreases, let us
understand how we are going to do it.
You already have the pattern figured out, so this section is going to be
a lot easier.
We will work our pattern till the 9-dc
section.
Each 9 dc section is made up of
4 dc in the two ch-2 sps and one dc in the middle, right? It is this middle dc that is the most
important in our decreases, and with each row, we will work till this dc and
then turn.
As we’re working the similar pattern, but with
decreases every other row, I’m going to restart numbering our rows with an
“A”.
Decrease Row 1 A : dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch 2, dc in the same sc) ;
sk next sc & 2 dc, sc in the next 5 sc ;
*sk next 2 dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc
rep (to) 2 times ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 5 sc* ;
rep *to* till last 9 dc ;
sk next sc & 2 dc, sc in the next 3 dc. Turn
Row 2 A : sc
in the 1st 2 sc ;
4 dc in the
next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & 1
sc, sc in the next 3 sc ;
*sk next sc & 1 dc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp
;
dc in the next dc ; 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & 1 sc, sc in the next 3 sc* ;
rep *to* till last 9 dc ;
sk next sc & 2 dc, sc in the next 3 dc. Turn
Decrease Row 3 A : sc
in the 1st 3 dc ;
sk next 2
dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc ;
(ch 2, dc in the same sc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 3 dc ;
sk next 2
dc & 1 sc, dc in the next sc ;
rep (to) 2 times*
rep *to* till the last 5 dc ; sk next 2 dc , sc
in the last 3 dc. Turn
Row 4 A: sc
in the 1st 2 sc ;
*sk next sc & dc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ; 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc & sc, sc in the
next 3 sc*
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc &
sc, sc in the last 2 sc. Turn.
Continue decreases every alternate row till you
have one shell left (or one set of 9 dc), ending with either a Row 2A or a Row
4A.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up.
a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) When lining the bag use a different coloured lining (i.e not the same colour as the yarn you have used) so that the paw prints show through
c) Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
d) How to attach a zipper : Check this link athttp://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
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