Sweet Nothings Crochet: JUST A YOKE

JUST A YOKE

I was gifted one ball of this really lovely Aunt Lydia bamboo yarn and I having used a part of it for a really cute little skirt, I had just this little bit left.. too little for a large project, too much to just throw away. I finally figured that a yoke would be best, knowing that if I ran short (sure that I was going to), then the light brown /beige would be the perfect combination for it anyway.. just like in the skirt .

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Now as I started on my yoke, I had no idea of how large (or small) it was going to be – and its ended up as the perfect size for a friend who wears 3XL. I just gifted it to her, and she attached it onto her kurta and sent me a picture so soon. Awww, aren't I just the luckiest?

+Meera Rajwade

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279834836635/

Materials used : Today I’ve used the superbly soft Aunt Lydia’s 10 crochet thread (100% viscose from bamboo) as well as Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : This cotton is a little like our Red rose knitting cotton in thickness, but way softer. So you could use our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Shilpa knitting cotton.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

The stitches used throughout are pretty easy, but the combinations and calculations take a little work.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So how are we working this yoke?

There are two sets of motifs here – one is the centre circle and then there are four side triangles. We then have this lovely pattern that joins the two motifs and finally a small border to just bring it all together to this lovely yoke.

For convenience, I’ve divided it into several parts, so do pay attention and mark which part you’re on when working.

Excited ? Let’s start.

Part 1 :

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Start : with a magic circle and 16 sc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 1: dc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round2: sc in the 1^st dc ;

*2 sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

2 sc in the last ch-1 sp

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3: dc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4: sk in the 1^st dc , sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp,

(1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 2 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same ch-3 sp ;

*sk next dc, rep (to) all in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around;

sk last dc, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, we’ll use our dc 2-tog.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Here we will do a little different a stitch. So we will work two dc 2-togs.

We work one dc 2-tog in one stitch, then skip the next four stitches and work the 2^nd dc 2-tog in that next st, so we will have these two dc 2-togs coming together as one, and then a ch-sp worked next.

Round 5 : sl-st in the 1^stsc, hdc and dc , dc 2-tog in the same dc ;

*ch 4, dc 2-tog in the next dc,

(sk next 2 hdc’s and 2 sc’s, dc 2-tog in the next dc)* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-4 sp,

(1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 5 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same 1^st ch-4 sp ;

*sk next dc 2-tog, rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1^st 4 sts, sc in the next dc ;

*ch 5, (sk next 2 dc , next 2 hdcs ; 2 scs and next 2 dc),

sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 8 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*7 sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9 : sc in the 1^st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;

*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : sc in the 1^st sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ;

*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ;

2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 7 sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease

And this video shows you how to use it a decorative stitch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Round 11 : trc 2-tog in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 5, trc 2-tog in the next sc ;

sk next 6 sc, trc 2-tog in the same sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

(1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 7 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*sk next trc 2-togs, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

We have 24 little shells or scallops around our motif right now.

We will use 22 of these shells and leave the last 2 un-used.

(i.e We will use only 22 shells).

Round 13 : sl-st into 6^th st of the 1^st shell / scallop ; sc in that same 6^th st ;

(ch 5, sk next 10 sts, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) 20 times till the last 2 shells,

sk last 2 shells and Turn.

Round 14 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

(7 sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) 20 times till the last sc. Fasten off.

We’ve completed the first part of our yoke – i.e Part 1 DONE !! YES!!

Part 2 : In this part we’ll work four little triangles that are marked as “A” in the charts. Make four of these little triangles.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start Row 1 : with 25 fdc. Turn.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Row 2 : dc 3-tog over the 1^st 3 dc ;

dc in each dc till the last 3 dc ;

dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 3 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 dc ;

dc in each dc till the last 2 dc ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4 : Rep Row 2. (15 sts)

Row 5 : Rep Row 3. (13 sts)

Row 6 : Rep Row 2. (9 sts)

Row 7 - 9 : Rep Row 3. (7 ; 5 ; 3 sts)

Last Row 10 : dc 3-tog over the 3 dc.

Fasten off and leave a tail. We will need this tail in two of the four triangles – to join up in Part 4, so keep a longish one… say 6”.,, but that’s just for two triangles. The other two, you could weave in ends.

Make a total of four of these triangles.

Part 3 : In this part we’ll attach our four little triangles to the main motif we made in Part 1.

So keeping the two unworked shells / scallops as our starting space, we’re going to work on the stitches to the left of them.

1. Starting with the 1^st triangle “A”, sk the 1^st sc and attach your triangle over the next 25 sts

2. Sk the next 23 sts and attach the 2^nd Triangle “A”

3. Sk the next 23 sts and attach the 3^rd Triangle “A”

4. Sk the next 23 sts and attach the last Triangle “A”

Part 4 : In this final part we’ll work all around the motifs and the triangles to bring it all together.

Just before we start, let’s do a small pre-prepartion. So yet again, let’s keep our work facing the same way.

So keep it such that the two unworked shells / scallops face away from you and are on the top.

Re-attach your yarn at the pointed end of the right hand side triangle “A”.

Work 31 ch. Fasten off.

Now let’s re-attach the yarn at the pointed end of the left hand side triangle “A”.

Work 31 ch. Turn.

We will be using all 31 chain so ensure that you do not pull that last chain too tight.

We are now on the left hand side of our work, and we will start on the flat portion to join the four triangles as well as the centre motif (those un-used 23 sts between two triangles). Simple enough ?

There are multiple instructions in different set of brackets / parenthesis in the following row. Please stay alert.

Row 1 : dc in each of the 1^st 31 ch ;

15 dc along the side of the first triangle ;

*dc in the next sc ;

(dc in the next 5 sc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

dc in the next sc* ;

[16 dc along the side of the next triangle ;

< 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the corner of the same triangle > ;

17 dc along the second side of the same triangle] ;

rep *to* once ;

{17 dc along the side of the next triangle ;

rep < to > one ;

16 dc along the second side of the same triangle} ;

rep *to* once ;

15 dc along the side of the last triangle ; dc in each of the last 31 ch. Turn

Phew ! We’re past the ‘worst’ part !

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 4, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to * till the 1^st corner ;

2 sc in the ch-1 sp at the corner ;

then rep *to* till the next corner

and 2 sc in the ch-1 sp at the next corner ;

finally rep *to* all the way to the end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;

*ch 4, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to * till the ch-4 sp in the 1^st corner , 2 dc in that corner ch-4 sp ;

[ch 4, dc in the sc ; ch 1, dc in the next sc ;

ch 4, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] ;

rep *to* till the ch-4 sp in the next corner ,

2 dc in that corner ch-4 sp ;

rep [to] in the same 2^nd corner ;

rep *to* till the last ch-4 sp ;

2 dc in that last ch-4 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the 1^st ch-2 sp ; *ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till the ch-4 sp at the 1^st corner ; 2 dc in that ch-4 sp ;

[ch 2, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 2, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] ;

rep *to* till the last ch-4 sp of the second corner ; 2 dc in that last ch-4 sp ;

rep [to] in the 2^nd corner ; rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

dc in that last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*3 dc in the ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the ch-2 sp at the end ;

[2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next (corner ) ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;

rep *to* till the ch-2 sp at the next corner ;

rep [to] in that corner

and then rep *to* all the way to the end ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Our last row is a little complicated. Take a quick look at the chart.

We are going to work a row of dc 2-tog and ch-4 sps all around (well, almost all around) the yoke. I say ‘almost’ as we will work on the outer edge, and then along the inner edge.

So choice time again –

1. We start from one outer edge, go all along to the opposite edge (as we’ve been working all along) and then we sl-st along that top edge of the yoke till we reach the inner edge of our yoke, which will run along the top of the two inner triangles as well as those two unworked shells. So this is Option 1

2. OR Option 2 , we will work the outer edge, and then at the opposite edge, you fasten off and then re-attach your yarn for the inner edge.

I am not sure which Option you will choose, so I will just write the instructions for outer edge and then along the inner edge, and hope that you and I are on the same page till the end.

Just fyi, I am choosing Option 1, to avoid yet another fasten off and weave in – lazy me.

Finally, along the inner edge , you will need to work your dc 2-tog sets along the edge, carefully spacing them out as you do not have the dc’s in between to skip and this is the portion that comes in the {to} instructions.

Row 6 : For the outer edge :

dc 2-tog in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next dc ;

sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last dc at the 1^st corner ; dc 2-tog in that last dc ;

[dc 2-tog in the next ch-2 sp ; dc tog in the next dc] ;

rep *to* till the last dc at the 2^nd corner ;

2 dc 2-tog in that last dc ;

rep [to] once ; rep *to* till the end ;

HERE YOU CHOOSE YOUR OPTION ;

For the inner edge : dc 2-tog in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till you are 4 dc from the 1^st corner ;

{dc 2-tog in that 4^th dc , sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc} ;

rep {to} till you’re at the edge of the triangle and just off the two un-worked shells ;

ch 4, sl-st in the sc of the 1^st unworked shell ;

Note : You could fasten off here and re-attach at the sc at the other end of the next shell OR you could sl-st in the next 19 sts ; sc in the next sc ;

ch 4, rep {to} till the next corner, dc 2-tog in that next corner ;

sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; then rep (to) till the end.

Now here we’ve ended at the inner edge of the yoke. So to ease the top edges, I’ve opted to sl-st all the way across the top and go back to where we started this row at.

Option 2 would be to fasten off at the end of this row, and then re-attach your yarn for the last and final row.

Yet again, as I do not know which option you’re using, I’m going to go with the inner edge and outer edge instructions.

Whichever start you choose, ensure that you are at the start st, where we started Row 6,

(i.e top left hand side of the yoke)

In our final row, we will be working a shell st of (1 sc ; 2 hdc ; 3 dc ; 2 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the ch-4 sps between our dc 2-togs.

Finally let’s add another Option of using a picot. Check the top of this blog under Stitches used for a “how to”.

If you decide to use the picot, may I suggest you use it bang centre of the Shell st, which will be the 2^nd dc of that 3-dc set.

Row 6 : For the outer edge :

sl-st into the 1^st ch-4 sp ;

Shell st in the same ch-4 sp ; shell st in each ch-4 sp till end ;

CHOOSE OPTION HERE

For the inner edge : sl-st into the 1^st ch-4 sp ;

Shell st in the same ch-4 sp ; shell st in each ch-4 sp till the ch-4 sp at the first corner , Shell st in that 1^st corner ; sk the next dc 2-tog at the corner, and continue Shell st in the next ch-4 sp ; work Shell st in each ch-4 sp, ignoring the dc 2-tog at the next corner as well, and continue till the end.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is !

Finishing :

Our finishing here is just weaving in and tidying up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Here are some of my bolero creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/11/pawz-jacket.html