Sweet Nothings Crochet: BEAUTIFUL SHELLED INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES

BEAUTIFUL SHELLED INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES

This is my third infinity cowl with sleeves ! Do check my blog for the first two patterns too.

I do not like repeating patterns, and am thinking of using a different pattern for the cowl part or the centre part.

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I was inspired by the Antonia shrug /wrap for the first project that I made of this type. I am now using a little bit of a tweak and changing the way I have made my infinity sleeved cowl.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837802132/

Materials used : Today I’ve use about 200 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; and made a project that is just right for a Size 34" chest.

Optional : a marker.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Abbreviations :

sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook

lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet

sl-st : Slip Stitch

sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only

fsc : Foundation single crochet

hdc : Half Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We start with a row of fsc and then work our way side to side to make a large rectangle. Now here’s where your creativity comes in.

There are several ways you can decide to wrap this around your body – so the two sides of your wrap will be the length of your arms from shoulder(s) to wrist(s), and the centre part is what will go around your chest.

Check this video to see the four ways you can use this superb creation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKNxf3RuaBQ

So calculations : One and a half times your round chest plus two arm lengths, so say for a Size 34" chest, I've worked about 53" for the centre rectangular section.

This is the length of the rectangle we’ll make.

Width : We will work up and down the fsc we’re making which is the width of our chest piece, but if you make this part too wide, then you’re actually increasing the round arm as well – so remember this when you’re working your calculations.

In my first pattern, I just worked a plain centre but here, I’m going to use a shelled pattern.

Now here are our tweaks :

1. I’m planning on using the shell stitch just for the center of the project and using a plainer stitch for the two arms, so I will be working three pieces in this project – One chest portion and two sleeve portions

2. I will work the three pieces separately and then join them together.

3. I am not going to write pattern separately for the chest and the sleeves. I am writing the shelled pattern down, and you could make the whole project in the same pattern.

4. If you decide to make the sleeves separately (as I have), you will follow instructions through to the end and see what I have done.

5. Finally, I’m going to add a tightening set of rows around the end of our ‘sleeve’ ends – so you could actually work whatever width you want, as the sleeves are going to fit eventually.

So, enough talking.. hooks in hand.. and let’s go.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 5 + 1

Start : with fsc in multiples of 5 + 1. Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use a “V”- stitch (“V”-st) which will be (hdc ; ch 3, hdc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 1 : hdc in the 1^st fsc ;

ch 1,sk next 2 fsc , “V”-st in the next fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next 4 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, hdc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

7 dc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

7 dc in each ch-3 sp till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, sk the next 3 dc , “V”-st in the next dc ;

*ch 1, sk the next 6 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

And just like that we’re done with this lovely shelled pattern.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 till your project is 1.5 times the round chest measure.

As I said before, if you decide to work this pattern through the whole project, then you will work this shelled pattern for 2 sleeve lengths plus 1.5 times round chest measure.

If you are working this pattern all through in shells, then once done, you will fold your completed project in half, and join the two sides from each end till the length needed for the sleeve.

The sleeves are the ends of this project and the centre of this project is the part that wraps around the chest.

Fasten off and weave in all ends and you’re done with your lovely shelled cowl with sleeves.

IF however, you’re making plain sleeves as I am, then carry on with the instructions here.

1. As we’re working a chest portion with the shelled pattern only, then you will work 1.5 times round chest measure in repeats of Rows 3 & 4 , ending with Row 4.

2. If changing yarn colours, then fasten off Colour 1, and attach whatever colour you intend for your sleeve here.

3. We’ve ended with Row 4, so work sc in the sc and ch-sps to add up to the same number of stitches as you started with. So say you started with 41 sts, at this end, you will have your sc and ch-4 sps, so just ensure that you work a total of 41 sts in these ch-sps and sc.

Once you have your sc at this end, and your fsc at the other end, you are ready to start your sleeves.

So for this end, you have your second coloured yarn for the sleeves. Once you’re done with this section, you will re-attach your sleeve yarn for the other side at one end of your start fsc row and repeat these sleeve instructions.

SLEEVES :

For this portion there are several options offered , so major decision time.

Round 1 : sc-blo in the 1^stsc and in each sc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Optional : Place a marker in the sl-st if you decide to reduce and scale the shape down a bit, as I have.

From here on I worked an sc in each sc all around, but did not join at the end of each row, so that we work in continuous rounds without the little join at the end.

Now it does not really matter if you want to join with a sl-st at the end of each round – I just preffered not to.

If you do decide to work in rounds without joining, please place a marker in that 1^st sc as we will need that 1^st sc a little later in our pattern.

Note : for decrease : if working in a round without joining :

At the end of each round one st before the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts. This works if you are not joining and are working in continuous rounds.

Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Note : for decrease : if not working in a round and joining with sl-st at each round :

At the end of each round two sts before the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts.

Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Yet again, just continue till you have the shape just right for the arm you are working this project for.

Finally, I worked this repeat till I had a length about 4” shorter than needed from the shoulder to wrist. I have decided to work the last 6” in post stitches in such a way that if needed the recipient could pull it over the palms and have finger-less gloves (of sorts).

The 2” ‘extra’ therefore will not be an issue (i.e I started this paragraph saying I would repeat till I was 4” short, and then worked 6” in post stitches, so these 2” will be part of the finger-less gloves)

So if you feel like doing this then, work till you are about 3-4” short of the length needed from shoulder to wrist.

Next Round : sc in the 1^st sc and each sc all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

From the following round on we will work in post stitches.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Next Round : fpdc in the 1^st sc ; dc in the next sc ;

(fpdc in the next sc ; dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Next Round : fpdc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

(fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Rep the above round for the final few inches, till your sleeves are of the length you need

(i.e either till wrist or till the end of your thumb - for the finger-less gloves).

Fasten off and weave in ends. We’ve completed one side of our sleeves.

Re-attach your yarn on the other side of the shoulder bit (i.e in my case the end of the grey rectangle) for the second sleeve.

Work all the rounds of pattern for the second sleeve as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

I’m thrilled at what we’ve made here today. This is a really oft-repeated pattern, but with a simple twist and tweak, we’ve created something different.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

In the Antonia wrap around shrug pattern, the designer has added a few images, which were not clear (well, not on my pc), so I thought I’d add a few myself .. just in case you need guidance on how to drape this rectangle (as I did). I love the explanation that the Antonia wrap shrug has for the images, which is how I figured (or so I hope) how to drape this thing around oneself.

I assume you've taken a look at the video, so here are those four different wears :

This is Wear # 1

This is Wear # 2

This is Wear # 3

This is Wear # 4

If you have other ideas on how we can use this, do let me know.. and we’ll add to this treasure.. this absolutely lovely wrap around cowl shrug pattern.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/03/nailed-it-scarf.html